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Discussion Starter #101
The car is still running great. Here's a video from the other day.

 

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Discussion Starter #102 (Edited)
Update...I swapped in another automatic transmission. Did it in a day this past Thursday in my buddy's garage on our backs. It was pretty rough getting the original unit out of the car, but the new one went in easy. The mounting bolts were WAY over-torqued. The new one has the toyomoto rods installed in it and it's a VERY noticeable improvement in shifting behavior on throttle. No more bouncing off the limiter between up-shifts and now there's actual control when I used the paddles to upshift on WOT. The only trade-off is that the upshifts on normal driving are a bit harsh now, but I don't mind it. Here's a quick video I took tonight.

 
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How much power does this car put down to the ground?
 

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Discussion Starter #104
How much power does this car put down to the ground?
I'm not sure, but it's pretty quick and already has a few kills over v8 powered cars. The FRS diff really helps it get into and stay in boost. I do plan to try to get it dynoed at some point, but I'm waiting for more track-related stuff to reopen in my area.
 

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I'm not sure, but it's pretty quick and already has a few kills over v8 powered cars. The FRS diff really helps it get into and stay in boost. I do plan to try to get it dynoed at some point, but I'm waiting for more track-related stuff to reopen in my area.
Oh ok. Do you know how many pounds of boost it makes? It looks like 5-6psi on that gauge. If that is a boost gauge. I’m guessing ~300-320whp
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Oh ok. Do you know how many pounds of boost it makes? It looks like 5-6psi on that gauge. If that is a boost gauge. I’m guessing ~300-320whp
It's got a 7psi spring in it so it peaks around 7 or 8psi. It's only a t04s 60-1 so I'm not sure where it is horsepower wise, but it does pull nicely and afrs are still ok on stock ecu with a fuel return and fuel pressure set to 46 psi.
 
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Discussion Starter #107
Here's another video of it driving from my dashcam. Sorry for the AFR and boost being upside down...it's their reflection in the windshield and it's better than nothing.

 
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Discussion Starter #109
Nice pulls! Are the gauges supposed to be like a HUD? Or was that an accident. Still looks like it works. That headlight output though yikes. Seems like a lot of fun
The gauges showing on the windshield is a happy accident. I can obviously see them fine in the cubby space as I drive. The headlights are aftermarket and suffice for now. The light output isn't that bad at all. I have a couple sets of OEM ones that I plan to do a lens restore and perhaps a projector retrofit on eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Nice day for a drive so I took a couple of clips with my rylo camera.

Mounted to hood-

Mounted to rear bumper-
 
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Discussion Starter #111
I've been driving the car and logged a few hundred more miles without any issues. I took some time to make an infinite baffle subwoofer setup and installed an infinity shallow mount 12" subwoofer and a 5 channel pioneer amp to simplify the wiring. I followed the instructions from a post here and it worked out fine. Only annoying thing was having to buy the m6 threaded rod from Amazon because I couldn't find it local to me. I wrapped the box in black carpet from o'reilly's and it matches fairly well. I've still got to pretty up the wiring in the trunk before I post a pic of that.

 
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Discussion Starter #112
I passed emissions today. No issues. Car is running great with a 7psi peak boost pressure on stock ecu.
 
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Discussion Starter #113
I figured I'd go ahead and post a complete part list for people who want to somewhat mirror my setup:

Part description:
Quantity:
Fuel Return-
Aeromotive A1000 FPR with 6an fittings​
1​
Aeromotive stealth 340lph pump part number 11542​
1​
Aristo fuel pump hanger with return fitting from ebay - no need to modify it at all​
1​
6an braided nylon hose 15ft​
1​
6an orb push lock fittings for FPR​
2​
1/8NPT tap for oem fuel rail​
1​
1/8NPT to 3/8" barb 90 degree fitting​
1​
11/32" drill bit for fuel rail hole​
1​
Engine-
NKG BKR7E Spark Plugs​
6​
NGK blue spark plug wires​
1​
OEM MLS exhaust manifold gaskets 2 per set​
1​
Suprastore.com "Supra 1JZ 2JZ OEM Exhaust Short Studs and Nut Package for Single Turbo Manifolds"​
1​
CX Racing NA-T T4 turbo manifold​
1​
CX Racing NA-T intercooler​
1​
CX Racing NA-T intercooler piping​
1​
CX Racing NA-T downpipe and midpipe​
1​
CX Racing NA-T turbo intake pipe 4" with 1 connection port​
Turbosmart 45MM hypergate wastegate​
1​
Tial Q 50MM BOV - Had the flange welded to the CX racing pipe to replace the greddy flange​
1​
Garrett T04S 60-1 turbo with P Trim turbine wheel and PTE .68 T4 turbine housing​
1​
Exhaust wrap 100ft for manifold and downpipe and dump pipe​
1​
KL downstream o2 sims​
1​
Merged primary o2 sensors -use pigtail from b1s1 o2 sensor and tap into the b2s1 sensor wires (blue and white wires). Plug this into the b1s1 connection near the water pump. Do not merge the black heater wires. Instead plug the b1s1 pigtail heater wires into a spare o2 sensor and leave it dangling in the engine bay secured. This will result in no o2 codes and both upstream sensors being close fuel trims. You could also add another bung for the b1s1 o2 sensor that is dangling because it will get hot.​
1​
Ebay catch can routed to both valve covers and the turbo intake pipe​
1​
Approximately 30" turbo oil feed line AN4 with proper turbo oil feed adapter​
1​
Oil feed line tee to pressure sender - EBAY: "1/8" BSPT Oil Pressure Sensor Tee to NPT Adapter"​
1​
Allen bolts for turbo mounting on 3/4 spots - 1.5 pitch M10 hex bolts. 25 length would work​
3​
Stud and nut for turbo mounting hole closest to the bank 2 o2 sensor connection - EBAY: "Turbo Stainless Stud Kit & Egged nuts M10x1.5 For Garrett GT40 GT42 Turbo"​
1​
ABS Relocate-
Summit part URR-BSCJ312 - 5 pieces of 12" brake line​
1​
Summit part EDD-274000 - brake union need 5 of these​
5​
Summit part URR-BR210 - 6 piece brake flare nut, OR reuse the nuts from the cut lines​
1​
Rented flare tool from autozone​
1​
Battery relocate-
Summit part TAY-48000​
1​
Oil Drain-
Metal turbo drain line - Dorman 625-212​
1​
3/8-18 NPT tap​
1​
37/64" drill bit​
1​
3/8 NPT to 10AN straight fitting​
1​
7/8" high temp blue rubber hose 1 ft.​
1​
Exhaust-
Tanabe super medallion axleback​
DNA motoring resonator​
Note: You cannot use the stock muffler, it's too restrictive and will cause the WG to open early​
Electronics-
AEM FIC and boomslang harness​
AEM UEGO X Series wideband​
AEM Boost Gauge​
Hose routing-
Intake manifold y pipe pcv connection block off​
Intake manifold y pipe fuel rail connection block off​
Both valve cover PCV hoses to catch can​
Catch can top port to turbo intake pipe​
 

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I figured I'd go ahead and post a complete part list for people who want to somewhat mirror my setup:

Part description:
Quantity:
Fuel Return-
Aeromotive A1000 FPR with 6an fittings​

1​
Aeromotive stealth 340lph pump part number 11542​

1​
Aristo fuel pump hanger with return fitting from ebay - no need to modify it at all​

1​
6an braided nylon hose 15ft​

1​
6an orb push lock fittings for FPR​

2​
1/8NPT tap for oem fuel rail​

1​
1/8NPT to 3/8" barb 90 degree fitting​

1​
11/32" drill bit for fuel rail hole​

1​
Engine-
NKG BKR7E Spark Plugs​

6​
NGK blue spark plug wires​

1​
OEM MLS exhaust manifold gaskets 2 per set​

1​
Suprastore.com "Supra 1JZ 2JZ OEM Exhaust Short Studs and Nut Package for Single Turbo Manifolds"​

1​
CX Racing NA-T T4 turbo manifold​

1​
CX Racing NA-T intercooler​

1​
CX Racing NA-T intercooler piping​

1​
CX Racing NA-T downpipe and midpipe​

1​
CX Racing NA-T turbo intake pipe 4" with 1 connection port​
Turbosmart 45MM hypergate wastegate​

1​
Tial Q 50MM BOV - Had the flange welded to the CX racing pipe to replace the greddy flange​

1​
Garrett T04S 60-1 turbo with P Trim turbine wheel and PTE .68 T4 turbine housing​

1​
Exhaust wrap 100ft for manifold and downpipe and dump pipe​

1​
KL downstream o2 sims​

1​
Merged primary o2 sensors -use pigtail from b1s1 o2 sensor and tap into the b2s1 sensor wires (blue and white wires). Plug this into the b1s1 connection near the water pump. Do not merge the black heater wires. Instead plug the b1s1 pigtail heater wires into a spare o2 sensor and leave it dangling in the engine bay secured. This will result in no o2 codes and both upstream sensors being close fuel trims. You could also add another bung for the b1s1 o2 sensor that is dangling because it will get hot.​

1​
Ebay catch can routed to both valve covers and the turbo intake pipe​

1​
Approximately 30" turbo oil feed line AN4 with proper turbo oil feed adapter​

1​
Oil feed line tee to pressure sender - EBAY: "1/8" BSPT Oil Pressure Sensor Tee to NPT Adapter"​

1​
Allen bolts for turbo mounting on 3/4 spots - 1.5 pitch M10 hex bolts. 25 length would work​

3​
Stud and nut for turbo mounting hole closest to the bank 2 o2 sensor connection - EBAY: "Turbo Stainless Stud Kit & Egged nuts M10x1.5 For Garrett GT40 GT42 Turbo"​

1​
ABS Relocate-
Summit part URR-BSCJ312 - 5 pieces of 12" brake line​

1​
Summit part EDD-274000 - brake union need 5 of these​

5​
Summit part URR-BR210 - 6 piece brake flare nut, OR reuse the nuts from the cut lines​

1​
Rented flare tool from autozone​

1​
Battery relocate-
Summit part TAY-48000​

1​
Oil Drain-
Metal turbo drain line - Dorman 625-212​

1​
3/8-18 NPT tap​

1​
37/64" drill bit​

1​
3/8 NPT to 10AN straight fitting​

1​
7/8" high temp blue rubber hose 1 ft.​

1​
Exhaust-
Tanabe super medallion axleback​
DNA motoring resonator​
Note: You cannot use the stock muffler, it's too restrictive and will cause the WG to open early​
Electronics-
AEM FIC and boomslang harness​
AEM UEGO X Series wideband​
AEM Boost Gauge​
Hose routing-
Intake manifold y pipe pcv connection block off​
Intake manifold y pipe fuel rail connection block off​
Both valve cover PCV hoses to catch can​
Catch can top port to turbo intake pipe​
When are you going to a dyno to see what you ended up with?
 

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Discussion Starter #115
When are you going to a dyno to see what you ended up with?
I decided to wait a bit till the weather cools off more since it's going to cost me about $200 to dyno it and I think should try to wait for optimum boost weather.

I just installed a mechman 250amp alternator and a new power steering pump and the miles and smiles keep racking up. I put a set of is250 18 inch staggered wheels with 255's in the rear and that's helped traction a bit in the lower gears.
 

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I decided to wait a bit till the weather cools off more since it's going to cost me about $200 to dyno it and I think should try to wait for optimum boost weather.

I just installed a mechman 250amp alternator and a new power steering pump and the miles and smiles keep racking up. I put a set of is250 18 inch staggered wheels with 255's in the rear and that's helped traction a bit in the lower gears.
For basic dyno pulls. It does not cost that much. Usually runs about $50 for just 3 pulls. No tuning time.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
For basic dyno pulls. It does not cost that much. Usually runs about $50 for just 3 pulls. No tuning time.
I called around and the quotes I got for 3 dyno runs with no tuning was $150-200 for about an hour of dyno time. That seems to be the going rate in my area in Las Vegas.
 

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Where is your wide band bung at? Is it taking the place of the factory primary O2 sensors?
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Where is your wide band bung at? Is it taking the place of the factory primary O2 sensors?
My downpipe has 2 bungs in it. The wideband is closest to the turbo probably about 10 inches, then the b2s1 o2 sensor is further down in the downpipe.
 

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My downpipe has 2 bungs in it. The wideband is closest to the turbo probably about 10 inches, then the b2s1 o2 sensor is further down in the downpipe.
So that B2S1 o2 is the one you merged B1S1 into right? Then you have the downstream O2 deleted with sims? Thanks for your help.
 
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