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Discussion Starter #81
I found an oring at my local ACE that was the right size for my tial bov mounting surface. i put that on and now it's not leaking. I alsp figured out the rich condition. It was the primary o2 sensor wires. Somehow the wiring rubbed against the transmission and the blue wire was grounding out. I replaced the sensor and put a heat sleeve over it and it's running great. The boost leaks are resolved for now and the spool up and peak boost hold is noticeably better. The car also isn't as rich on boost as before. it was touching deep into the 10s before with massive boost leaks. Now its staying in the mid to low 11s on boost. I'm going to start tweaking with the FIC soon to at least pull timing on boost to help prevent detonation or knock. The fuel trims are back in line now that I reset the ECU and drove around the block a few times. I'll put some miles on it over the next few days and make sure it's all good and try to set the smog monitors. My goal is to set all monitors without any CEL or codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
So I've been driving the car a bit more and noticed that at the higher load areas in 3rd and 4th gear the car seems to be missfiring a bit on hard accel. The car isn't throwing a code, but I can hear and feel it. I'm going to switch to the NGK BKR7E plugs since that seems to be the go to plug for boosted cars.
 

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So I've been driving the car a bit more and noticed that at the higher load areas in 3rd and 4th gear the car seems to be missfiring a bit on hard accel. The car isn't throwing a code, but I can hear and feel it. I'm going to switch to the NGK BKR7E plugs since that seems to be the go to plug for boosted cars.
That is one heat range colder than stock. I would do two ranges colder and close the gap slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
As an update, I'm so happy I went with the aristo fuel pump assembly with the return already on it. I've taken the car all the way down until the fuel light turns on without any issues. The gas gauge reads properly and falls normally with no big jumps. I didn't do anything to modify the return hose on it or the connection to the other side of the tank. I would highly recommend anyone looking to do a fuel return setup on a mild build where only 1 pump is needed to get the aristo pump assembly and just upgrade the pump to an aeromotive stealth 340.
I just wanted to add the aeromotive stealth 340lph part number, which is 11542.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
So I swapped the plugs for BKR7E NGK 4644 copper plugs and the car runs great. I gaped the plugs to .027. I also unplugged my HKS DLI for now to test if that was causing issues. The iridium plugs I pulled out all looked about the same, but they were a little whiter than I'd like to see them. I also took the PCV plastic thing that goes into a hole on the intake Y-pipe out and replaced the o-ring on it and blocked it off properly with a hose with a bolt in it and clamps. I'm sure it was leaking boost from there before because the o-ring was very hardened and not a tight fit. I took it for another drive and the AFR's are a bit leaner now so that tells me that more boost is getting into the engine instead of leaking out after it goes through the MAF. AFR's on full boost are high 11's now instead of high 10's like they were previously. I think perhaps it was rich miss-firing before. I'll take a few pics of the spark plugs and the engine bay as it sits now.
 

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Discussion Starter #86

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Discussion Starter #87
I spent some time over the last week trying to fix a couple exhaust leaks under the car and finally succeeded at that. The axleback has a ball and socket type flange so I had to find the right size exhaust donut gasket for it. Also, I ordered a new denso B2S1 o2 sensor because I put in a bosch one and found that the stock ecu doesn't seem to like it and hunts a bit more at idle versus the denso sensor I had in there before that shorted out due to the wiring. I'll be swapping that in soon.

In my search for exhaust leaks I found that my Tial MVR 44mm gate seems to be letting air past the valve and some exhaust is coming out of the dump tube at idle. I'm going to see if I can tighten the vband clamp to see if that seals better. If not I'll remove it and see if there's any damage to the valve or the seat causing the leaking.

I was asked to give an exhaust clip of my setup. It's the CX racing downpipe, CX racing midpipe, DNA ebay brand resonator, and Tanabe Super Medallion axleback muffler.
 
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Discussion Starter #88
So frustrating...apparently I was sold a fake tial MVR. I realized this after I took a closer look at my wastegate that I bought locally a couple years ago from someone who I thought was reputable. He's now moved out of state so I really have no recourse than with myself for not doing more diligence to better spot a fake initially. I've ordered a turbosmart hypergate 45mm and it'll come in the next week or two and I'll slap that on and see how we go. In the meantime I have a synchronic 40mm wastegate that I put on with adapters but it makes too much boost even on the lowest spring and reference port settings. I drove the car around the block and it was making 10 psi peak but the AFR's were leaning out as the rpms climbed so I let off. It spooled much quicker because this wastegate doesn't leak, so I'm excited to get my new hypergate and see what it'll do. I'm just going to use the 5psi spring and hope that it'll hold 5psi max. If it does, I may try to slap in the 7psi spring that it comes with.
 
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Man that sucks I know the market is flooded with the fake tial WG’s. They all have the same few serial #’s so that used to be the best way to spot them. I wondered if it was a fake when you posted earlier. There’s just no way to leak in vacuum, unless you forgot to install the “fire ring” seat, or there was damage to the valve.

Didja do an autopsy on the fake to see why it was leaking?
 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
I removed it and took a good look and realized that the fire ring just doesn't fit snugly to the valve and that made me question the quality. It was leaking a lot of volume around the fire ring at idle almost sounding like an exhaust leak. I think this also explains why my boost wasn't holding a certain pressure at WOT. It would fluctuate between 3-5psi. I'm pretty sure the valve was just opening and closing constantly on boost because of the air leaking out around the fire ring causing the wastegate to not stabilize boost, among any other issues it may have just holding vacuum. When I drove it on this other wastegate it held the boost more consistently but it just peaked too high. It was quite fast, but the AFR's started to climb to 14:1 and I let off. I know the stock injectors will NOT support that much boost. I'm perfectly happy to drive the car on 5-7psi max for as long as the engine lasts with happy AFRs.

I already have an AEM V2 with dezod harness and a spare 2jzge vvti engine to build with GTE internals for when the car can be registered as a classic in 2024 so it won't need smog. Once I get my current setup stabilized, that other engine will be the money pit.

I watched this youtube video that does a good job of breaking down the differences and confirmed mine is fake.
 

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is the fake a used item? It is quite discolored from the outside, they havent bothered machining everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I received my turbosmart hypergate 45 today and I can really tell the difference in quality vs. my fake tial. The fire ring seems to seal very tightly with the valve and I'll be putting it on tonight and testing it out with the 5psi spring. I'm hoping that this gate won't let a lot of air past the fire ring seal at idle like my fake tial did.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
The new wastegate works perfectly. It doesn't let any air past at idle, holds WOT boost at 4-5 psi, and spools noticably faster. AFRs are good in the high 11s on boost. I need to still do some freeway testing, but it pulls hard all the way through 3rd.

I also bled my brake master cylinder because there was air trapped in it from when I did the ABS relocate and bleeding all of the calipers and ABS multiple times with a power bleeder didn't get the air out. I used a cheap plastic master cylinder bleeder kit from the parts store and it worked perfectly. Now the pedal feels stiff and there is consistent travel on braking. It was scary before. It was squirming on hard braking. Glad that's fixed.

The next thing will be to shim the transmission and install a transmission cooler. I'd love some feedback of doing it with the transmission in the car. I'm going to be using the 4 piece solid aluminum rod shim inserts that are a new product from someone I saw advertising on facebook.
 
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The hard part for me was trying to get it all back together on my own in a tight space on the axle stands. I would recommend having a mate or 2 handy to help do the grunt work as you are pushing the heavyish solenoid housing up at an angle against springs while trying to line it up and put screws in.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
The hard part for me was trying to get it all back together on my own in a tight space on the axle stands. I would recommend having a mate or 2 handy to help do the grunt work as you are pushing the heavyish solenoid housing up at an angle against springs while trying to line it up and put screws in.
Ya, I was planning to have someone help me by putting the bolts in as I hold it in place. Here's a quick video from today just to give an idea of how the car runs and builds speed.

 
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Discussion Starter #97
Loving the hidden gauges and upgraded steering wheel! Really glad it came together for you, looks like a blast to drive.
The gauges are hidden away from the heat and peering eyes when it's parked. I really wanted to keep it a sleeper look. Off the throttle it just sounds like it has an exhaust; On the throttle it roars. It's really nice to have instant torque when I stab the gas. There's almost zero lag with my 60-1 p-trim turbo. The AFR's on boost are in the high 11's all the way till it shifts near the limiter. The boost stays between 4-6 psi as it revs up to redline without a hiccup and the power feels very linear once the boost comes on. I've got all of the smog monitors set except for the evap and there are no codes at all currently. I'm pretty sure the evap will set just fine and then I'll try to get it smogged. In NV it's just a plug in OBD2 test.

I'm happy to say that at this point I have no leaks at all and no issues with coolant temperatures even with the stock radiator, AC blowing on MAX, and outside temps over 100 degrees.

Also, I spent some time over the last few days fixing random rattles and annoyances. I found that in both front doors the bolts holding the window to the regulator were pretty loose as well as the bolts securing the door handles. Fixing those made the door rattles go away. I still have a major rattle in the rear passenger side near the headrest that I need to find and fix, but otherwise it's pretty quiet and comfy inside.

I also purchased a door check repair kit from ebay because none of my doors will stay open on flat ground, let alone any incline. I did both front doors and WOW they stay open perfectly now. I highly recommend this for anyone who doesn't want to spend $100+ each for a new door check. It didn't take me long to rebuild the pieces and the instructions that come with it are pretty good. The doors take a little more effort to open and close now, but I'm happy that they don't close on my leg anymore.

 
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Discussion Starter #98
Great news! Today I was able to set the evap smog monitor and checked for codes and there are none. I'll take a video in a bit explaining the setup and showing that it's ready for smog. The car is running excellent with no hiccups at all. I am tempted to put on the xcessive throttle lock to get better throttle response, but it seems like that breaks the throttle body sensors and I don't want that.
 
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Discussion Starter #99
Here's a video showing the stock ECU readings.

 
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Discussion Starter #100
I finally got around to mounting a transmission cooler. It seems to have lowered the temps by an average of 20 degrees in city driving and on the freeway it really cools off fast where previously it didn't seem to cool off very well with temps over 90 degrees outside. I Just made a simple bracket to mount to an existing hole and used some hose that is made for power steering/transmission fluid. I still need to add some hose sleeve to protect them from rubbing, but it seems to work fine. The fitting pictured is seeping a very small amount so I may just try to use some sealant on it and call it a day.

 
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