Hello everyone. I've owned my 2004 IS300 for nearly a year now and I'm in the process of gathering all of the required parts for an NA-T build for low boost. It's an automatic, but it will still be a blast to drive.
EDIT: Here's a parts list as of Oct. 2020 with the completed NA-T setup having over 1k miles on it:
Original post follows-
Background:
When I first got the car it had about 180k miles on it and it had a few of the common oil leaks from the valve covers and cam seals. I decided to do a complete refresh (VC gaskets, cam seals, PCV valve, VVTI gear o-ring, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, serpentine belt, crank seal, spark plugs, ngk plug wires). After all that was done, the engine runs perfectly and has no leaks. I also replaced the transmission mount and rear differential mounts which were both completely torn. My car came without LSD, but I installed an FRS LSD in it.
Next I decided to fix the squeaks and rattles in the front suspension. The previous owner installed function form coilovers and the car was really low. I raised it back up immediately and noticed that the lower control arms, ball joints, and tie-rod ends were toast so they were replaced. I also ended up replacing the power steering pump and rack because the previous owner didn't use ATF and instead used power steering fluid. The pump whined like crazy and the rack was really too tight to move the wheel. Those issues are now resolved with replacement parts installed.
The car is my daily driver and consistently gets about 20 miles to the gallon and has ice cold A/C...which is a blessing in the Las Vegas summer.
Over the coming months, I'll be installing the parts that I've gathering and be posting videos on youtube and photos here to document the progress.
Here's a pic of how it looks today:
EDIT: Here's a parts list as of Oct. 2020 with the completed NA-T setup having over 1k miles on it:
Part description: | Quantity: |
Fuel Return- | |
Aeromotive A1000 FPR with 6an fittings | 1 |
Aeromotive stealth 340lph pump part number 11542 | 1 |
Aristo fuel pump hanger with return fitting from ebay - no need to modify it at all | 1 |
6an braided nylon hose 15ft | 1 |
6an orb push lock fittings for FPR | 2 |
1/8NPT tap for oem fuel rail | 1 |
1/8NPT to 3/8" barb 90 degree fitting | 1 |
11/32" drill bit for fuel rail hole | 1 |
Engine- | |
NKG BKR7E Spark Plugs | 6 |
NGK blue spark plug wires | 1 |
OEM MLS exhaust manifold gaskets 2 per set | 1 |
Suprastore.com "Supra 1JZ 2JZ OEM Exhaust Short Studs and Nut Package for Single Turbo Manifolds" | 1 |
CX Racing NA-T T4 turbo manifold | 1 |
CX Racing NA-T intercooler | 1 |
CX Racing NA-T intercooler piping | 1 |
CX Racing NA-T downpipe and midpipe | 1 |
CX Racing NA-T turbo intake pipe 4" with 1 connection port | |
Turbosmart 45MM hypergate wastegate | 1 |
Tial Q 50MM BOV - Had the flange welded to the CX racing pipe to replace the greddy flange | 1 |
Garrett T04S 60-1 turbo with P Trim turbine wheel and PTE .68 T4 turbine housing | 1 |
Exhaust wrap 100ft for manifold and downpipe and dump pipe | 1 |
KL downstream o2 sims | 1 |
Merged primary o2 sensors -use pigtail from b1s1 o2 sensor and tap into the b2s1 sensor wires (blue and white wires). Plug this into the b1s1 connection near the water pump. Do not merge the black heater wires. Instead plug the b1s1 pigtail heater wires into a spare o2 sensor and leave it dangling in the engine bay secured. This will result in no o2 codes and both upstream sensors being close fuel trims. You could also add another bung for the b1s1 o2 sensor that is dangling because it will get hot. | 1 |
Ebay catch can routed to both valve covers and the turbo intake pipe | 1 |
Approximately 30" turbo oil feed line AN4 with proper turbo oil feed adapter | 1 |
Oil feed line tee to pressure sender - EBAY: "1/8" BSPT Oil Pressure Sensor Tee to NPT Adapter" | 1 |
Allen bolts for turbo mounting on 3/4 spots - 1.5 pitch M10 hex bolts. 25 length would work | 3 |
Stud and nut for turbo mounting hole closest to the bank 2 o2 sensor connection - EBAY: "Turbo Stainless Stud Kit & Egged nuts M10x1.5 For Garrett GT40 GT42 Turbo" | 1 |
ABS Relocate- | |
Summit part URR-BSCJ312 - 5 pieces of 12" brake line | 1 |
Summit part EDD-274000 - brake union need 5 of these | 5 |
Summit part URR-BR210 - 6 piece brake flare nut, OR reuse the nuts from the cut lines | 1 |
Rented flare tool from autozone | 1 |
Battery relocate- | |
Summit part TAY-48000 | 1 |
Oil Drain- | |
Metal turbo drain line - Dorman 625-212 | 1 |
3/8-18 NPT tap | 1 |
37/64" drill bit | 1 |
3/8 NPT to 10AN straight fitting | 1 |
7/8" high temp blue rubber hose 1 ft. | 1 |
Exhaust- | |
Tanabe super medallion axleback | |
DNA motoring resonator | |
Note: You cannot use the stock muffler, it's too restrictive and will cause the WG to open early | |
Electronics- | |
AEM FIC and boomslang harness | |
AEM UEGO X Series wideband | |
AEM Boost Gauge | |
Hose routing- | |
Intake manifold y pipe pcv connection block off | |
Intake manifold y pipe fuel rail connection block off | |
Both valve cover PCV hoses to catch can | |
Catch can top port to turbo intake pipe |
Original post follows-
Background:
When I first got the car it had about 180k miles on it and it had a few of the common oil leaks from the valve covers and cam seals. I decided to do a complete refresh (VC gaskets, cam seals, PCV valve, VVTI gear o-ring, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, serpentine belt, crank seal, spark plugs, ngk plug wires). After all that was done, the engine runs perfectly and has no leaks. I also replaced the transmission mount and rear differential mounts which were both completely torn. My car came without LSD, but I installed an FRS LSD in it.
Next I decided to fix the squeaks and rattles in the front suspension. The previous owner installed function form coilovers and the car was really low. I raised it back up immediately and noticed that the lower control arms, ball joints, and tie-rod ends were toast so they were replaced. I also ended up replacing the power steering pump and rack because the previous owner didn't use ATF and instead used power steering fluid. The pump whined like crazy and the rack was really too tight to move the wheel. Those issues are now resolved with replacement parts installed.
The car is my daily driver and consistently gets about 20 miles to the gallon and has ice cold A/C...which is a blessing in the Las Vegas summer.
Over the coming months, I'll be installing the parts that I've gathering and be posting videos on youtube and photos here to document the progress.
Here's a pic of how it looks today: