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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey im looking into buying an AEM wideband and just had a question about the wiring. I saw all you need is a power and ground i believe, can anyone tell me which wires are best to use and their location on the ECU? thanks
 

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Its funny that you ask this, I just installed my Uego wideband no more then 2 hours ago. As for power i tapped into the cig/power point by the ash tray. I did that because there is only voltage at that wire when the car is on so I dont need to worry about a power draw issue. As for ground i found the nearest chassi ground and use that. thats really all you have to worry about. the other two wires are for an EMU, the 0 to 5v wire is your signal wire that will go to the EMS. if you dont have any type of EMS no need to worry about hooking them up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its funny that you ask this, I just installed my Uego wideband no more then 2 hours ago. As for power i tapped into the cig/power point by the ash tray. I did that because there is only voltage at that wire when the car is on so I dont need to worry about a power draw issue. As for ground i found the nearest chassi ground and use that. thats really all you have to worry about. the other two wires are for an EMU, the 0 to 5v wire is your signal wire that will go to the EMS. if you dont have any type of EMS no need to worry about hooking them up.
Ok cool, Ill have to see once i get mine. Where did you mount your gauge? im thinking about just getting a reg. gauge cup and putting it on the little tray above the climate controls since my SAFC is occupying under the heated seat buttons. How do you like the gauge? is it real lagging on the readings?
 

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well i dont have my tipple gauge pod yet but its up on the center dash and i like it up there. the wideband is acutally pretty fast and i am not noticing much lag at all, so far i love it and it was well worth the money. i know it doesnt say to do this in the directions but before i put it in my car i did an air calibration to it. all you do for that is plug everything in and turn it on and make sure it made a full sweep but dont put it in the exhaust when doing this.
 

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from personal experience i dont recommend aem wideband i have had issues in the past i changed it out for innovative motorsports lc-1 and it has been great no issues but this is just from personal experience and i am not trying to bash brands just a recommendation
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I like how the AEM has the green, yellow and red lights also though. Correct me if im wrong but the innovative only has the read out? Also where did you put the sensor? Im getting an o2 sim soon so i was going to put it either in the ypipe or the bank 1 secondary spot as i dont feel like getting a new one welded in. I knew when i got my SAFC tuned i shouldve agreed to having a new bung welded in for a wideband but i wasnt thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i have a bung welded in my ypipe so that it can read both banks
Damn, ok yea i didnt wanna pay to get it welded. Also one non thread related question. I saw you have cams, is it better to run off a tuned SAFC or stock ecu tune?
 

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umm well any tune is better then the stock ECU but the stock ecu is the most reliable tune you will ever have. With cams, cam gear set to -4, header, y-pipe, apexi cat-back, joe-z intake and stock ECU i made 205whp and 210 ft lbs of torque and the temp was low to mid 60's since it was fall. the SAFC will yeild maybe 10 to 12 more whp.

And if you have a header and y-pipe i would recomend putting the AEM wideband in the y-pipe so it can read both banks together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
umm well any tune is better then the stock ECU but the stock ecu is the most reliable tune you will ever have. With cams, cam gear set to -4, header, y-pipe, apexi cat-back, joe-z intake and stock ECU i made 205whp and 210 ft lbs of torque and the temp was low to mid 60's since it was fall. the SAFC will yeild maybe 10 to 12 more whp.

And if you have a header and y-pipe i would recomend putting the AEM wideband in the y-pipe so it can read both banks together.
Damn, thats what i made with everything except the cams and gear and i had my safc.
 

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I like how the AEM has the green, yellow and red lights also though. Correct me if im wrong but the innovative only has the read out? Also where did you put the sensor? Im getting an o2 sim soon so i was going to put it either in the ypipe or the bank 1 secondary spot as i dont feel like getting a new one welded in. I knew when i got my SAFC tuned i shouldve agreed to having a new bung welded in for a wideband but i wasnt thinking.
i do not recommend taking one of your o2 sensor out for the wideband your ecu needs the o2 and the wideband is an independent unit that just tell you your AFR also when you install your wideband it must be in front of the cats and with in 18inches of the motor put try to put it back as far as you can with in these limits

innovative is just the module and sensor you can use any gauge but the gauges they do have are red and blue
i am running the titan motorsports AFR gauge with the innovative lc-1

if you decide to put in the y pipe it cant be behind the cats as this will give you a false reading
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i do not recommend taking one of your o2 sensor out for the wideband your ecu needs the o2 and the wideband is an independent unit that just tell you your AFR also when you install your wideband it must be in front of the cats and with in 18inches of the motor put try to put it back as far as you can with in these limits

innovative is just the module and sensor you can use any gauge but the gauges they do have are red and blue
i am running the titan motorsports AFR gauge with the innovative lc-1

if you decide to put in the y pipe it cant be behind the cats as this will give you a false reading
I dont have cats on the car, these are the secondarys, meaning if anything that it'll just cause a CEL which can be fixed with an o2 sim.
 

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I dont have cats on the car, these are the secondarys, meaning if anything that it'll just cause a CEL which can be fixed with an o2 sim.
then go for it no cats do what you want lol
 

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Damn, thats what i made with everything except the cams and gear and i had my safc.
Thats fine but its not always about peak power. my power curve looks alot better then yours and i will be making hp and torque in places your car falls off. Plus i am an E-shift so that kills me and if your a 5spd and had cams you would have a decent NA car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just got a quote and here is the exact email
"The cam replacement calls for $836 in labor because the intake manifold has to be removed in order to service the valve cover on this engine. The water pump and timing belt are no problem on this and only calls for $323 in labor. You can bring the parts or have us buy them, it makes no difference to us."

Seems like a lot of money to me, but i emailed him back and he meant that the $836 is for everything, but that still sounds like a lot. I think it comes out to 8.8 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got the gauge in, it was a PITA to fish it through the firewall, etc.. and its not very clean with the wires but ill figure something out. im getting a 14.8-15.2 idle ratio .
 

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i ran my wires under the carpet of my car. i took out the center counsel, radio and heater control head. i then ran the wires up to the center dash try thing and thats where my gauge is. i used an existing rubber body plug under my car to run the wires so no holes were made. and then the plastic underbody sheild coved all the wires and helpped protect everything. As for power I tapped into the cig outlet and then just used a chassis ground.

Oh and my idle AFR is 14.6 to 14.9 and my WOT is 10.6 which is pretty rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i ran my wires under the carpet of my car. i took out the center counsel, radio and heater control head. i then ran the wires up to the center dash try thing and thats where my gauge is. i used an existing rubber body plug under my car to run the wires so no holes were made. and then the plastic underbody sheild coved all the wires and helpped protect everything. As for power I tapped into the cig outlet and then just used a chassis ground.

Oh and my idle AFR is 14.6 to 14.9 and my WOT is 10.6 which is pretty rich
My WOT is at abour a 12.7, 50-90% is like 13.4.
 
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