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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've tried adding coolant to the system cause it was overheating and blowing out cold air 80% of the time, And it was fine for a few days and did again. So I took the cap off and it was low so I added some. Now I'm having to add coolant pretty much every time I turn the car off. Any suggestions on what the problem might be? Or has anyone experienced this problem with their IS? And how did you fix it? Thank you in advance for any help or suggestions.
 

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Oh!!!
I haven't had this problem with the IS3 but have some suggestions.

Assuming you ruled out the water pump, and cant find an signs of a leak on the ground, check the heater core,
Also smell the exhaust and see if its sweet, I am told you can smell it if its getting into the exhaust.

Unfortunately if you are over heating and the coolant starts out full, and the heater stops working, this is the classic symptom for a blown head gasket.

How is it running ?

Get a compression check or leak-down check done or do it yourself.

hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
BIG THANKS IanH I just got off work and drove home and smelled the exhaust. Just smells like regular old exhaust no sweet smell.........As far as how it's running it runs like a BEAST! That's also confusing the shit out of me. I havn't done a compression test yet(I'm afraid too) because of the results i might get. Also I've checked for the white smoke ur talkin about in the exhaust and theres no smoke. Checked the dipstick too it looks like clean oil no bubbles or whiteness. I'm really worried it's the head gasket though. BTW(if this helps) when I changed the plugs the one closest to the radiator was COVERED! in oil. Which also makes me think it's the HG.
 

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BTW(if this helps) when I changed the plugs the one closest to the radiator was COVERED! in oil. Which also makes me think it's the HG.
No that's because people have got a lousy aim and cant hit the hole with the Oil !!!
Dont panic yet !!!

Well look for coolant stains, It must be a big leak if it overheating.

It possible the water pump will leak under pressure and not when its parked.

Can you see underneath the pump, maybe put it up on ramps.

If its running strong then it cant be much of a HG leak yet. How do you feel about pulling the plugs and looking at them ?
Then do a compression check since you are there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll pull the plugs back out and do a compresion test. Oh and the oil that was on the plug was on the threads, and by the amount of oil that was on it. It had to have been submerged down in there.....I think.........(I dont know how much room is down there though
 

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Somehow I don't think its the HG, yes I think it could be the pump. Wouldn't be the first time a pump leak has been hard to find.
Yes oil on the front plug is common !!! Some people just have poor aim !!
You can zip tie the belt to the pulleys, that will keep everything in time.
But when done I recommend you check it anyway, I have had cars one tooth off from the Dealership timing belt replacement this was not Lexus though.

It also good practice as you will have to replace the belt at some point. If you replace the water pump maybe you should replace the belt anyway. it inexpensive compared to everything else ~ $26 I am told.
 

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even with the belt zip tied to the pulleys you will have to keep it tight against the crank pulley !!!
 

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BTW son took belt off and used Zip ties behind a shop in Houston in the rain at one of the 2kxx events, 2k06 i think, idler bracket broke and timing jumped. this held it where it was, and then he corrected the timing. So it can be done.
 

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Here is a pic from the timing belt DIY in the stickies... i borrowed it, thanks to the original poster .

you cam see the gears, and it has holes, undo the bolts and zip tie around the belt through the holes, then the belt cant move on the pulley.

You can also see the water pump, left lower quadrant.

 

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For the intake you will have to go through the bolt hole, his car wasn't VVTI so it was like the exhaust.

Read the DIY threads.

Remember if the belt is off, and you turn anything the valve can hit the pistons. So to turn the cams, the pistons have to be "not at TDC." There is a recommended position for each engine layout.

To time the engine the cams are set in position and the engine rotated carefully to number 1 at TDC. Then the belt can be put on.
there are checks, like the number of teeth between the crank mark and the intake, and the number between intake and exhaust. Some mark the old belt and the gears with white out or paint so they know how it was.

when its all done and the tensioner released I rotate 2 turns to get back to TDC #1 and re-check.
 
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