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Discussion Starter #1
Okay guys, I did my search and no dice. My ac seemed to work fine about 2 days ago till yesterday. I turned it on and it just blows air according to the temp in the environment. Heat is fully functional though so I'm kinda stumped. I don't think it's a leak but not really sure. AC light is solid, all speeds work fine. All i know is that the compressor is not kicking in(revs don't drop or anything) when i turn the ac on. :confused: On a side note, i wanted to check the relay but can anybody explain how to pull that thing out? I know it's kinda noobish but this is my first real nice car and it's a bit more complicated than my old honda... i kinda pulled it but don't wanna break it. Other than that any suggestions would be great before i cough up the bucks to a pro. Also since the compressor is not kicking in i cant really see any r134a flowing thru that little window.

Thank you guys and again sorry if this has been covered.
 

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Well, you've already done a good observation and i would think either your magnetic clutch coil is bad or more likely the charge is lost. The dual pressure switch keeps the clutch from engaging to avoid damage. In order to see if the clutch was the problem, you'd have to pull the small black relay labeled "AC COMP" and using a voltmeter, test the socket where the silver terminals would go(on relay) to see if you have 12 volts. You can also check the 10A A/C fuse to verify it's not blown. I have yet to hear of a coil clutch go bad on this forum and I think it's best to take it to a shop that has a manifold gauge set so they can verify the system is empty. If it is, they should have equipment such as an electronic refrigerant sniffer to detect leaks. The wrong method would be to go to the store, buy cans of R-134a and dump them into the system. The proper pressures have to be on the high and low side with the right amount of refrigerant(~21 oz.+pag oil).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey thanks for the quick reply! Also I was thinking the same thing as you, maybe the charge is lost as I haven't heard a magnetic coil go bad either(searched around). I'm gonna go ahead and test that relay, but could you tell me exactly how to pull it(AC COMP), is there a tab or something? I know it sounds kinda stupid but I just dont wanna pull hard on it and break it as i already tried and it's in there pretty good. Thanks!
 

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Actually i just pulled it out to make sure before i posted. There's a few of those little black relays near the ECU(with fan relays). The middle black one pulls up and is not locked into place(wiggling a bit helps it come up). This relay is used on many parts of the car where the silver contacts are the relay coil and the bronze/gold contacts are for the clutch(EFI, FANS, HORN, etc.). You should have +12 across the sockets where the silver terminals go when the clutch is commanded to engage. If you don't have +12, the control console is keeping it off. I would not suggest jumping where the bronze terminals go and force the clutch to engage, that can result in damage(for future readers mainly). The 10A A/C fuse is in the driver kick panel. It's what feeds the clutch coil after the AC COMP relay picks up. Betting on a lost charge though, which is better than a $320 clutch assembly.

Edit: You could also test for an open circuit on the clutch coil itself. Basically one positive wire feeds it and the coil is grounded to the compressor. There's also a lock detection switch so the console knows the clutch is keeping up with engine rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Understood. Will check it out later this morning because i have to work in the afternoon everyday this week. Even if i find the problem it won't be solved till the weekend. I'll let you know regardless for future readers.

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did an evac and refill today and the AC was freezing cold :). so i'm really glad I don't have to fix anything with the compressor. However there's the possibility that I have a leak somewhere so I'll wait a couple days. I'm waiting on the dye to do its job. Confirming you were right Jason. Thank you for the help. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So let me bring this from the dead by saying that I really like this car. It is the reason why I drove it for about a year in hot ass Florida weather and instantaneous storms. After replacing my compressor which was leaking freon I refilled the system again. It held charge for a about 3 days and then it blew it out like a fog machine. This was a very frustrating process. So I paid for diagnostics. Turns out evaporator core was leaking too.

I really didn't have the cash to fork over for that many hours of labor. Plus I wanted to remove and paint the dash as well because it absolutely ruined.

Anyway it's been about 2.5 weeks now and it's holding charge finally. The core was a PITA to remove. You even have to take out that metal bar with all the wiring under the dash.

I went ahead and replaced the heater core while I was in there and expansion valve and all o rings.

Just wanted to share my victory over this problem. Anyway onto pictures of why I was sweating my ass off for about a year.

The core completely rotted. There was dye all over the assembly. But if anybody has the same issue now you know what it takes to fix. Or you can just pay a fortune ╮(╯_╰)╭ but it is very rewarding to do it yourself. I paid about 100 bucks for the core and the valve and o rings all together. My buddy hooked it up with the vacuum and refill.
 

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