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Anyone here have a layman's explanation as to why the PLP vortech needs to have the oil pan tapped? TBKO and Toyomoto's s/c put out the same amount of HP but don't require an oil return line. Why wasn't the Vortech designed in the same way? I love everything about the kit except for this.

Just wondering...
 

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The Vortech is not a sealed unit therefore not self lubricating. The oil helps lubricate the S/C and prevents overheating and possibly failure. I personally prefer that as oppossed to a sealed unit dure to the fact that I'm sure that oil in the sealed unit has to eventually break down. When that happens what do you do, buy a new blower or rebuild it? I don't think tapping into the block is that big of a deal and it can always be plugged if the S/C is removed.
 

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AC556k said:
The Vortech is not a sealed unit therefore not self lubricating. The oil helps lubricate the S/C and prevents overheating and possibly failure. I personally prefer that as oppossed to a sealed unit dure to the fact that I'm sure that oil in the sealed unit has to eventually break down. When that happens what do you do, buy a new blower or rebuild it? I don't think tapping into the block is that big of a deal and it can always be plugged if the S/C is removed.
What he said.
 

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AC556k said:
The Vortech is not a sealed unit therefore not self lubricating. The oil helps lubricate the S/C and prevents overheating and possibly failure. I personally prefer that as oppossed to a sealed unit dure to the fact that I'm sure that oil in the sealed unit has to eventually break down. When that happens what do you do, buy a new blower or rebuild it? I don't think tapping into the block is that big of a deal and it can always be plugged if the S/C is removed.
Actually, can't you change the oil on a sealed unit? Just like you change you engine oil... every xxxxxx miles youdrain the s/c oil and replace it? That makes sense but I don't know if its the way it works... anyone?
 

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AC556k said:
I don't think tapping into the block is that big of a deal and it can always be plugged if the S/C is removed.
Also, tapping the oilpan is not a task for an amateur or someone who doesn't have a lot of automotive experience... Have you ever drilled a piece of metal? See all those shavings that are produced... the big curly cues of metal?

You let one of those drop into your oil pan and you can say bye bye to your engine if it doesn't get drained out. Tapping the oil pan should be left to a profession... making the PLP kit something that is shippable, but I wouldn't recommend self-installing it.

toyomoto did an awesome job making this kit both shippable and installable by someone with medium auto knowledge.
 

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AC556k said:
The Vortech is not a sealed unit therefore not self lubricating. The oil helps lubricate the S/C and prevents overheating and possibly failure. I personally prefer that as oppossed to a sealed unit dure to the fact that I'm sure that oil in the sealed unit has to eventually break down. When that happens what do you do, buy a new blower or rebuild it? I don't think tapping into the block is that big of a deal and it can always be plugged if the S/C is removed.
of course the oil in a sealed unit will break down, but the engineers would have to be pretty stupid to not allow a way to change the oil without buying a new unit. You can change the oil for both the rotrex and the procharger units just like you would your engine's oil.

I do believe that both have a specific kind of oil that must be purchased for them, but one down side might be how widely available that oil is... you may have to purchase it from them directly, not sure on that.
 

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It's much easier than you think. The aluminum is very soft there. It took me a matter of about 5 mintues to do the whole thing.

You need a drill motor, two different sized drill bits (one for a pilot hole, another for the hole to be tapped), a 5/8" NPT tap and tap handle. Grease on the tap and drill bits help capture the small bits, and someone helping by holding a vacuum up to the hole while being drilled also capture the bit crap.

The baffle filters and oil filter will keep any crap out that didn't get flushed while draining the oil after it was drilled/tapped.

If you have a drill motor, the bits, tap and tap handle won't cost you more than $40 at any hardware store.

I'm thinking of doing a video on this for my next install, people will see just how extremely easy it is.


Kane

dasgalloway said:
AC556k said:
I don't think tapping into the block is that big of a deal and it can always be plugged if the S/C is removed.
Also, tapping the oilpan is not a task for an amateur or someone who doesn't have a lot of automotive experience... Have you ever drilled a piece of metal? See all those shavings that are produced... the big curly cues of metal?

You let one of those drop into your oil pan and you can say bye bye to your engine if it doesn't get drained out. Tapping the oil pan should be left to a profession... making the PLP kit something that is shippable, but I wouldn't recommend self-installing it.

toyomoto did an awesome job making this kit both shippable and installable by someone with medium auto knowledge.
 

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drilling the pan is not that hard. You drill slowly and you load up your bit and tap with bearing grease which grabs the shavings. Also your pump pick up in the pan has a screen on it so it doesn't pick up particles.
 

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has anyone tried a hole punch instead of drilling the pan??? in mustang installations, we used to use a tappered punch...this makes for an increased surface for tapping...

also, i like the vortech's desing better...everytime you change your car oil, you change the oil in the supercharger. it's much simplier once you tap the pan...you don't have to worry about changing the oil in the sealed unit. just one less thing to worry about...
 

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dasgalloway said:
AC556k said:
The Vortech is not a sealed unit therefore not self lubricating. The oil helps lubricate the S/C and prevents overheating and possibly failure. I personally prefer that as oppossed to a sealed unit dure to the fact that I'm sure that oil in the sealed unit has to eventually break down. When that happens what do you do, buy a new blower or rebuild it? I don't think tapping into the block is that big of a deal and it can always be plugged if the S/C is removed.
Actually, can't you change the oil on a sealed unit? Just like you change you engine oil... every xxxxxx miles youdrain the s/c oil and replace it? That makes sense but I don't know if its the way it works... anyone?
You've got it...for the Procharger I will be changing it every 3,000 miles.
 

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It's going into the aluminum where the stock GTE engines return line goes. But ours isn't flanged from the factory, so we have to drill out the boss. It's kinda thin and soft, so a hole punch could easily crack it due to the impact.

Kane

HyperMKIV said:
has anyone tried a hole punch instead of drilling the pan??? in mustang installations, we used to use a tappered punch...this makes for an increased surface for tapping...

also, i like the vortech's desing better...everytime you change your car oil, you change the oil in the supercharger. it's much simplier once you tap the pan...you don't have to worry about changing the oil in the sealed unit. just one less thing to worry about...
 

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Kanine21 said:
It's going into the aluminum where the stock GTE engines return line goes. But ours isn't flanged from the factory, so we have to drill out the boss. It's kinda thin and soft, so a hole punch could easily crack it due to the impact.

Kane
oh...well...my bad...i never tapped the gte pan so i didn't know... :p
 
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