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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
I also fixed my rear bumper tabs yesterday. Really quick and simple. I just drilled a small hole about the width of the zip tie I used, maybe about 4mm or so in the location circled in the pic attached. I then fished the zip tie through there and the stock bolt hole then tightened until it matched up nicely. I'm hoping the zip tie allows for more give so it doesn't just break off like the washer I tried to epoxy last time. Time will tell, but this is just what I did. The factory hole was blown out and wouldn't hold anymore. The reference pic is from an eBay listing btw.
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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
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Front fitment is a hair weak, so I'm getting 5mm spacers to make it poke out just a touch. Also check the rear bumper tabs, leagues better than having them pushed out. Now I need to peel all the epoxy off my front bumper and fix that again, but this time actually cut out the parts that are making contact with the intercooler piping. You'd think I would have done that the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 · (Edited)
I've been overthinking this wiring project for a while now. I was wondering how the starter would work on standalone, but it seems like it's not connected to the stock ECU at all except on auto cars to check the gear selector for park or neutral. I think I'm going to try and pull my stock ECU out and use the EMU Black along with the All4Swap CANverter 2 to have my car on full standalone. I think it's possible as long as I can figure this out, but according to this guy on YouTube that put an LS1 in his car, and everyone else on standalone for that matter, it's doable. Then the CANverter fills in some of the gaps, but then air conditioning becomes a question but it's been done before and the CANverter has outputs for that too. So step one is to see if I can start the car without the stock ECU.

Update: I've had it bypassed since I did the manual swap lol. Once you connect the two wires on the EA1 connector, you can start the car here, there or outer space apparently. This leaves the MPX stuff that the CANverter should fix and the air conditioning which it also has provisions for.
 

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Seems like a useful little device.

Looks to me like pushing the AC button on your HVAC control will trigger an output on the device capable of pulling in a relay you can use to engage your AC clutch. It appears it also takes an input from your AC pressure switch to interrupt the analog output to the AC clutch relay.

Also cool you can allegedly use the device to drive the MPG gage. Can't imagine how that could possibly be made to be accurate (based on fact device has no inputs necessary to carry out such a calculation), but at least the gage won't be dead!
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Seems like a useful little device.

Looks to me like pushing the AC button on your HVAC control will trigger an output on the device capable of pulling in a relay you can use to engage your AC clutch. It appears it also takes an input from your AC pressure switch to interrupt the analog output to the AC clutch relay.

Also cool you can allegedly use the device to drive the MPG gage. Can't imagine how that could possibly be made to be accurate (based on fact device has no inputs necessary to carry out such a calculation), but at least the gage won't be dead!
It does seem like a cool little box. Should make the move to standalone a lot easier. Honestly all it does for me now is air conditioning. I'm thinking about having the main ignition power just go straight to my standalone now to see how far I get. What was going to be a week long project seems a lot more like a few long weekends, with obvious start and end points. I might try and whip up a beefier fuel pump relay and try to ditch the stocker sooner than later. Also the MPG gauge might just not pin at 80, maybe they gave it a limit to a more realistic number, like 20 haha.
 

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What was going to be a week long project seems a lot more like a few long weekends, with obvious start and end points
Famous last words...

I might try and whip up a beefier fuel pump relay and try to ditch the stocker sooner than later.
Don't forget the IS300 "fuel pump relay" is actually a fuel pump voltage selection switch. When FPR is open, fuel pump current passes through the FP resistor, limiting FP voltage/speed. When FPR is closed, the FP resistor is bypassed and FP gets full current. All the FP current must pass through the circuit opening relay and EFI relay.

My recommendation is to bypass the FP resistor, then use the old FP power wiring to close your new, heavy-duty relay. This way, so long as the OEM circuit opening relay and EFI relay are closed - your new HD FP relay will be closed also. Or get fancy and use a PWM solid state relay for fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 · (Edited)
Don't forget the IS300 "fuel pump relay" is actually a fuel pump voltage selection switch. When FPR is open, fuel pump current passes through the FP resistor, limiting FP voltage/speed. When FPR is closed, the FP resistor is bypassed and FP gets full current. All the FP current must pass through the circuit opening relay and EFI relay.
I'm pretty sure I cut a wire to make it so I didn't have variable voltage to my fuel pump, but to be honest I never checked. The car still worked and there was no indication of something wrong so I assumed it worked. I have the early GS300 wiring diagram which if you didn't know is just a fat IS300, so I'll take a look at the fuel pump part when I get home.

Maybe the instant MPG gauge uses some calculation relating the current speed vs fuel loss? I saw on one of my diagrams that 2 ohms meant full and 55 meant empty, maybe there's enough resolution between that for some accuracy? I don't know exactly what MPX has on it, but it could be a possibility.
 

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i’m in the same boat, is it required to keep the stock APPS and throttle body on the car when trying to have emu control fuel and spark with a cabled throttle body?
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
i’m in the same boat, is it required to keep the stock APPS and throttle body on the car when trying to have emu control fuel and spark with a cabled throttle body?
I'm going to say no. I have a throttle lock and have unplugged the APPS sensor while running to no effect. This is only if you have ignition and fuel ran off the standalone of course.
 

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which solid state relay do you recommend?
Any Crydom that's in stock from the following Mouser search query:


You need one meant to switch direct current, as the construction/function of SSRs designed to switch AC is different.

It needs to be rated for at least as much current draw as your fuel pump; in my case that's 25A, but the higher the SSR is rated, the less heat will build up and the less need for a heat sink.

It needs a control voltage of less than whatever your ecu auxilliary output voltage is. That'll usually be 12V, but make sure you check, else your ecu won't have the voltage to switch the SSR on/off.

It needs a load voltage of at least 12V, the voltage your load (pump) runs on.

Look at the datasheet PDF for the Crydom SSR; it has part numbers for accessories like covers, heatsinks, etc - if you want to add any of that stuff...

You'll also need a fast-recovery diode wired across the load, as depicted on the instructions/datasheet for the SSR:

Something like this:

 

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Discussion Starter · #152 · (Edited)
Earlier I tested the car with the stock ECU unplugged and was surprised with how many things still worked. Off of my memory the fuel gauge worked, AC blowers all worked, even the outside temperature worked, but I think it must have been stored or something because there is literally a sensor for it that was unplugged. The car does crank and my standalone does come on, I can hear the little beep it does. What it doesn't do is start the fuel pump relay. I think this is due to the EFI relay not having an output or something with the Circuit Opening Relay. I also learned that these cars don't prime unless they're cranking. Other observations are that the sensor on the radiator must be for the fans to kick on, because the water temp gauge still worked (ECU plugged in again). So I'm wondering how I could hook up the standalone to activate my fuel pump relay and fan relay. You think it'd be simple but I'm so lost.

It can't be as simple as having my standalone go to the switch, right? Also I want to retain the stock fuel pump relay. Reading the diagrams it seems all I have to do is ground the green yellow striped wire. This wire goes to the fuel pump control pin on the stock ECU and according to my Google images research, this has to be a ground point. So if I do that, then I have the EFI relay triggered by the standalone then the fuel pump should prime when the key is on. This should also work on stock ECU as well. I really need to clean up these docs so I can focus on what I actually need. I should also go to sleep.

I'm not losing sleep over this, I just always go to sleep late lol. I think I have it figured out though. Seems all I have to do is bypass the Circuit Opening Relay. So just a wire from pin 5 to pin 3 on that socket I believe. This just allows for the EFI relay to be the main relay. Then activate the main relay with the standalone? Fans and AC can wait until later lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
so that $800 ecu master plug n play block has some MPX/multiple converter inside? i’d rather spend that amount on a lsd
I doubt it, the box I'm talking about is the All4Swap CANVerter. It's about $90. Or I could have gone with a Link ECU and I already have an LSD.
 

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I doubt it, the box I'm talking about is the All4Swap CANVerter. It's about $90. Or I could have gone with a Link ECU and I already have an LSD.
yea same. i shoudlnt have jumped on the used emu black so soon. but it did come with bti touchscreen so i can change maps on the fly like annoying burble pops for car meets ahaha
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
yea same. i shoudlnt have jumped on the used emu black so soon. but it did come with bti touchscreen so i can change maps on the fly like annoying burble pops for car meets ahaha
It would have been dumb to not hop on a good deal though. I needed a computer that could run parallel regardless because I was auto still. I didn't manual swap until a few months ago so I couldn't have gotten a pnp anyway. $90 and all I have to do is hook up about 6 wires? Count me in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Found out today that if you bypass the Circuit Opening Relay it allows the fuel pump to run as soon as you put they key in. Still starts about the same. No real point in doing this right now, but it might make me use one less output of my standalone, then I can directly control the FPR with that to make it function properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
Decided to finally fix my loose door card fabric. All I did was mask off where I wanted to spray the 3M Super 77 adhesive, then pat it and tuck the fabric in the seam with my key. Took about 10 minutes or so, but now this won't be in the back of my mind anymore.
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Now I need to get rid of those scuffs by the armrest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
I can hear my driveshaft clunk a little bit when I give my car gas, which suggests I need diff bushings I think. So I take a trip to ShopFigs and of course I go down the rabbit hole of wanting every single bushing, or looking at things I know I don't need. What I think I need is the rear diff package plus the supplemental subframe collar bushings. I always wondered why people bought these supplemental bushings and the answer is quite simple: no one makes a replacement. Alright then. I'll document my findings once I feel like fixing that. I get paid Friday, I might be able to move some money around to afford them comfortably. This might also solve the classic AR5 vibration of death exactly at highway speed.
 
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