[Kris OK]

In the case of the Lotus application, it was because the fittings hit the cover

I doomscrolled some on the Lotus version, too. The thread I read had a lot of “pissing contest” content between the contributors but it concluded that any torsion placed on the fitting caused a leak. So if the fuel line is flexing the fitting, it’ll leak.

 

[AlwaysBroken]

I doomscrolled some on the Lotus version, too. The thread I read had a lot of “pissing contest” content between the contributors but it concluded that any torsion placed on the fitting caused a leak. So if the fuel line is flexing the fitting, it’ll leak.

I see…so if it’s installed, it leaks? 😂 Undersized O-ring maybe? Or god forbid some dumbass used fake sizes on a metric part. I’ve seen it happen before.

 

[_zaclemore]

Got my new to me head back from the machine shop today, drove home with the biggest smile on my face. Thing looks brand new. Resurfaced deck, hot tanked, valve job, valve lash. Getting the cams out is gonna be a task.

Now that it's clean, I definitely see where I could have helped with some porting/shaping.

Got some more stuff polished up. The exhaust gear looks a lot better in person. The photos make it look like a bathroom mirror, so I might touch it up before the head goes back together.

Does this look familliar?

Proof I need a better hobby:

 

[_zaclemore]

Got these in super quick from MAPerformance. They're billet LS coil pack brackets. I saw these about a year ago and have had them on a tab on my phone since then. Finally figured why not and picked them up. These are so much nicer than my old eBay multi-piece brackets. I think I want these Cerakoted black as well.

The build quality is very nice on these. For the price I'd recommend them, but when I first saw them they were about $20 cheaper than their current going price at $155. Every edge is chamfered, every surface is straight and smooth, the bolts fit in with a perfectly just-loose-enough tolerance. I think it'll be well worth it because I won't have to juggle a bracket, two coil packs, two bolts, two spacers and countless washers. Now It's all one unit with two captive bolts. To be fair, I have a unique (and terrible) setup so I actually benefitted from the various parts. Doesn't matter now. Moving forward. The one issue these have is they contact the VVTi valve covers on the intake side, just pick which piece you want to grind down and the problem is solved.

 

[_zaclemore]

I bet you weren't ready for the double post. Hear me out: I get the OEM PCV's welded shut and shaved, then I weld or screw in pipe adapters to go out the back under the plug cover. Sounded possible in my head, but looking at the hardware, it looks very possible. I'm thinking a flexible silicone hose, maybe 3/4" maybe closer to 5/8" since that should be equal to a -10AN's inner diameter. Then I'd route it behind the head and cylinder 6 runner to a can under the intake manifold. I wish more people had the Radium press-ins on super tucked setups. They can look good but I want it to look really good. I also want to keep the barbs as close to the stock PCV locations as possible to make use of the baffling.

The barb on the back of the head is a lot smaller than I remembered and the GTE covers sit a lot higher than the GE ones so that'll help cover up a lot of the mess.

I think I should do it.

 

[_zaclemore]

I found this thread on Supra Forums doing the same thing I'm doing, just back in 2007 or so. Thought it would be cool to share and keep alive:

My 13 Year OCD Build in the pursuit of perfection - GS300

Alright guys, this thread has been 13 years in the making. Always putting it off because I know how we all hate dead links and unfinished threads. This is my GS300 - Lexus slogan was at one time "Pursuit of Perfection" so that's where we'll start. At this point, I have no idea where to...

www.supraforums.com

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

I'm thinking a flexible silicone hose

Usually the manufacturers of silicone hose say its not suitable for use with oil. Material compatibility charts confirm this - but that doesn't reconcile against felpro silicone rubber gaskets or silicone gasket maker.

Something to consider. It'd still probably last quite a while.

I like your tucked concept and it'd certainly look clean, but you'll need to make some tight bends that'll inhibit flow to some extent. Also, hiding your catch can under the intake manifold will probably make emptying or servicing it more cumbersome. More things to think about.

I considered a fancier arrangement than what I ended up actually putting together, but ultimately chose what I deemed to be function over form. It consists of joining the two valve covers with a ⁵/₈" hose, and then a 1" hose exiting the baffled zone of the exhaust cam cover; going straight to my catchcan mounted where the battery used to live. Haven't tested it yet, though.

 

[AlwaysBroken]

Usually the manufacturers of silicone hose say its not suitable for use with oil. Material compatibility charts confirm this - but that doesn't reconcile against felpro silicone rubber gaskets or silicone gasket maker.

There’s another type of silicone, FVMQ. Fluorosilicone. It’s a much more chemically resistant version of the normal stuff. Fine for motor oil and gas. I came across it when researching if I could submerge DT connectors in gas/E85. The normals DT connectors had silicone seals and will fail whereas the expensive (EXPENSIVE) stuff has FVMQ seals and would has been fine.

first image results show bright blue o rings for Fvmq so I’d imagine that’s what Fel pro is using(LS valve cover gaskets). Or maybe not since that crap swells so much after the first install that they are not reusable.I think I measured them to be 1” longer after a meager 100 miles.

You could always test the hoses by submerging them in oil and just see what happens. It won’t be representative of the use case but it should tell you how oil compatible it is.

 

[_zaclemore]

Usually the manufacturers of silicone hose say its not suitable for use with oil. Material compatibility charts confirm this - but that doesn't reconcile against felpro silicone rubber gaskets or silicone gasket maker.

Something to consider. It'd still probably last quite a while.

I like your tucked concept and it'd certainly look clean, but you'll need to make some tight bends that'll inhibit flow to some extent. Also, hiding your catch can under the intake manifold will probably make emptying or servicing it more cumbersome. More things to think about.

I considered a fancier arrangement than what I ended up actually putting together, but ultimately chose what I deemed to be function over form. It consists of joining the two valve covers with a ⁵/₈" hose, and then a 1" hose exiting the baffled zone of the exhaust cam cover; going straight to my catchcan mounted where the battery used to live. Haven't tested it yet, though.

I totally agree with function over form, but it'll function just fine. I have a guy that's all for doing some fab work so I'll let my stupid ideas turn into a reality. I believe 5/8" is equal to the inner diameter of a -10AN. So it'll have the same breathing room as my current setup, but a lot less of the junk up top. If I could keep my current setup and have good baffling, I would. But I need the rice haha.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

I believe 5/8" is equal to the inner diameter of a -10AN

Indeed. In case you didn't know, AN sizes are the numerator of a fraction where 16" is the denominator:

3AN = 3/16"
4AN = 4/16" = 1/4"
...and so on...

While on the topic, the JIC fitting standard is interchangeable with AN. JIC is usually used on hydraulics and are usually steel - but share the 37º flare angle and thread sizes with AN.

 

[_zaclemore]

Old tensioner or misaligned crank pulley turned my serpentine belt into spaghetti. Luckily I was close enough to work to wait for it to cool down and carefully drive it into my spot. Annoying, but not the end of the world.

 

[_zaclemore]

The JDM fairy came today and dropped off some more Cusco stuff. I like how they have so many parts for our cars, so naturally, I'm inclined to keep buying more of them. I wish they made rear arms though. I feel as if I have the parts in the catalog that actually do something, unlike the A brace and rear subframe brace. So this rear bar will match my front one. I decided to install that part today, I'll save the arms for a later date.

Of course, read the directions first. Make sure you make a hole 230mm from about there and 1 8 something something from around that area.

Be sure to dust off your particle board particles.

I like to think I cut out the covers pretty well. Let's see if I can even tell a difference.

 

[TobiasSing]

You sure cut the covers way better than I cut mine. I made huge slits going all the way back so I could take the covers on/off easily. I'm not sure what that bar can do much of, since it has rotational joints that can spin and flex, vs a fully solid piece.

 

[_zaclemore]

You sure cut the covers way better than I cut mine. I made huge slits going all the way back so I could take the covers on/off easily. I'm not sure what that bar can do much of, since it has rotational joints that can spin and flex, vs a fully solid piece.

Yeah that's one of the pitfalls of the OS type Cusco bars, they make a solid one, but for some reason I opted for this one. I think the price difference was maybe $20. The movement is pretty minimal though, I have the bolts impacted tight so it should help with extreme movement. I went for a drive after I made the post and the car did feel different. The most noticeable difference was when I was backing out of my driveway. It used to creak and I assume there was some flex there, but it is now eliminated. That's about it, nothing much else.

 

[_zaclemore]

Decided last night was the right time to install my Cusco FUCA's.

There are four set camber adjustments designated by the holes above and below the bolts as shown. Something like +4mm +8mm, -4mm -8mm. I set it at the maximum positive camber adjustment. (Not as shown)

Had to raise the front a little and now I have less camber and I can actually turn to full lock without hitting my fenders. Kinda messed them up with being so low and not being careful. Don't like the wheel gap, but that can be dealt with later.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Do those take the stock part number front upper balljoint?

 

[_zaclemore]

Do those take the stock part number front upper balljoint?

I don't believe they are, which can be problematic in the future. They come with three pieces of paper with part numbers on them and there might be a replacement part number somewhere, but it's all in Japanese, so I might try and feed it through a translation software to find out.

 

[TobiasSing]

Wheel gap??? what wheel gap??

 

[Kris OK]

Do those take the stock part number front upper balljoint?

They do not. I have the same Cusco fucas as @_zaclemore. I put new boots over the ball joints when I bought the car. It had been slammed and the jackasses had cut the inner fenders so the control arms didn’t slam the metal. I worried the ball joints would need replaced but so far so good. I think this is the PN for them 195 474 K BJ. I wish I knew what the part is from. They just have a snap ring holding them in, I think. The cuscos are 75$ each, so not horrible but not cheap.

Wheel gap??? what wheel gap??

LOL I know, his makes my car look like I got BigFoot wheel-to-fender clearance.

 

[_zaclemore]

Wheel gap??? what wheel gap??

LOL I know, his makes my car look like I got BigFoot wheel-to-fender clearance.

I raised the car a good quarter inch or so, maybe even 5/16" now. There is considerably more tire showing now than I like. I will drop it about 1/8" at some point later. I really like the wheel spacing now, but I liked the height I had for the last few months. I think I'll strike a happy medium at some point.