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Discussion Starter · #302 ·
You gonna have to redo the downpipe with the new turbo manifold?

Meanwhile this my forecast:
Yup. I want to do a 3.5" or so, it would sound really good and it has been proven that a bigger downpipe aids in spool. For the time between then and later, I plan on taking the hood off and flipping my current downpipe upside down and chopping it so it sits nicely haha. It should be really obnoxious for a bit, but it'll just be a placeholder. Hope my parents don't kick me out over it lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #303 ·
More stupid stuff is shiny. I saw this done on a sick 1JZ vvti, so I figured I'd try it since I have a spare now. Looks better in person, steel polishes up so nicely.
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I plan on getting the sprocket teeth Cerakoted black, along with my adjustable one recoated. Then I'll shine up the middle of that one too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #304 ·
Merry Christmas! (A day late, I know.) I got some cool stuff. I also now know what other cool stuff I need to get for myself. Featured here is my trust new-to-me head, a Radium GE fuel rail + DMR, along with my FReddy intake manifold. I think it looks cool all together. Maybe I should have got the DriftMotion style one so I could polish it lol.
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I like how in this one you can see my Real St. sticker in the reflection. ^^^^
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Do note in these photos, the -10AN 180* fitting I got looks like it may be a problem, I really hope there's enough flex in the line to make it work, it should be just about fine.
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There's the DMR, I really like how small it is.
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Like I mentioned before, I now know what I need to purchase, so I took a stop by Finish Line Factory and Real St. I'll definitely update when some parts start coming in!
 

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Discussion Starter · #306 ·
Attempted to install my JDM cluster with the classic Dakota Digital SGI-100BT. I got the repinning right and new LED kit installed. Without the box it was fine, just in km/h. I added the box, it had power but it was receiving no signal. Considering it's now 11:30 pm and my phone was on 1%, I'll save it for tomorrow. I'll provide pics and more info then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #307 ·
Got my Altezza cluster installed and almost fully operational this morning. On an 01, you need to move illumination wire(pin 1) to the empty pin 10 slot, then the tach wire (pin 11) to the empty pin 14 slot. Pin 12 is the speedometer signal wire, cut it then follow the diagram below. Obviously provide +12v and ground. Full pinout available here. Pin 1 is now for oil pressure and requires the Altezza/Sequoia oil pressure sensor, part # 83520-60051.
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This allows for you to adjust the speedometer signal from km/h to mph. Getting the app and adjusting is takes a few minute drive and it works in real time. My setting is around 1.19x.
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I just had to flip the LEDs around to get the illumination perfect, if you have ever done LEDs you know the process. Not too impressed by how bright the middle ones are, but it's acceptable. Also be sure to pull the ABS bulb out unless you want a constant ABS light for no reason.
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Illumination in the daylight is pretty much useless. Also the gas gauge is pretty funky. Mileage is pretty high, but I ordered an EEPROM programmer thing to modify it closer to my actual mileage. I just need to add whatever 10km + 10mi to my mileage, or I'll just accept whatever is closest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #309 ·
Anyone with an Altezza cluster know why the fuel gauge might not be working? The motor works, but it just jumps to full tank and won't go down. When I was low it worked when I first installed it, I put gas in and it hasn't moved. Maybe I have the first 500 mile tank is300? I'm thinking about hooking up the CANverter to see if I can get that to do something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #310 ·
I thought I could be smart and try to install the CANverter into the car. It did nothing. Yes, I stripped my wiring before using the T taps. Honestly, I don't even know if it powered on, I didn't have my tiny screwdriver set on me at the time. At least the battle is halfway done, it has power and ground as far as I can tell (or does it?), and it's hooked into the MPX system (or is it?). Tomorrow I'll try unplugging stuff and handing more over to the CANverter.
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Discussion Starter · #311 ·
I somehow ended up closing my browser after typing a lot about my Altezza cluster woes. I'm not running it anymore. I need to add like 200 miles to my mileage. The pressure sensor reads erratic, unlike the aftermarket one. Here's unrelated pics:
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I have cool stuff coming in the mail, much cooler than an inaccurate Altezza cluster. I also plan on polishing this cylinder head. ^^^
 

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Discussion Starter · #312 · (Edited)
One of my HID's went out and me being the JDM guy that I am (I guess?) I decided to get the most JDM of HID's, no not TOM's, no not Panasonic, and definitely not that OEM Osram. I decided to make the mistake of purchasing Morimoto HID's from Z1 Motorsports of all places. D Series? Go figure.
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This side looks pretty accurate, nice and white, I'd highly recommend it for a good white light.
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Here's the stock Osram one, not actually yellow, it was white, but had a purple tint, kind of like an HID that was about to die. In comparison, the Morimoto one is actually better. QC wise, well...
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Here's a used HID vs a new one. In the off-chance you wondered. You can definitely see where the $30(lol) per HID goes for the Morimoto.
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Just my luck, one of the HID's doesn't work. So it's just like my situation 24 hours ago. 1 HID doesn't work. Is this what I get for paying so little for totally Japanese made HID's? Yeah, I'd say so. At least I have 1 new and 1 old that still work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #314 ·
At least it's not the ballast. You definitely get what you pay for with lighting. I guess you could use one bulb of each for now lol. IDK about the customer service with Z1 Motorsports, but when I used to get Morimoto from TRS and something went wrong, they made it right.
Turns out something went wrong after I swapped the ballasts on my lights. Took the offending light out then fixed up the wires. Works great now. Strange that it didn't work for the first few tries, on the other light, that was kind of a head scratcher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #315 ·
I have a bunch of cool stuff for the final step of the engine bay coming in soon. A lot of head parts coming in later today (EST time zone lol). I'm really excited for the next few months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #316 ·
Mail came today.
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First package that came contained a brand new set of GTE VVTi valve covers. I have some plans for these, but not what you'd expect. I want to shave down the sides, get them smooth and have them painted or coated. I also really want to use the middle larger PCV openings as tucked catch can lines.
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Next package contained some more cool things. BC single steel springs + retainers, GSC Power Division standard size steel valves, Tomei 1.2mm head gasket, new OEM belt tensioner bolt + washer, 20 ARP m10x1.5 (I think) 6 point nuts, and 1 out of my 12 exhaust studs. Why 12? 8 for the head and 4 for the turbo manifold that just to happens to be the same thread pitch.
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The only issue with GTE covers on a GE head is this right here. One of the holes doesn't line up right. It should be fine, but time will tell.
 

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First package that came contained a brand new set of GTE VVTi valve covers. I have some plans for these, but not what you'd expect. I want to shave down the sides, get them smooth and have them painted or coated. I also really want to use the middle larger PCV openings as tucked catch can lines.
View attachment 143534
What, no polishing? 🤭 :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #318 ·
What, no polishing? 🤭 :LOL:
Not this time. I'm sure they will be at some point and I'll be doing 90% of the polishing work anyway, but I want them painted along with the cam cover. I'm thinking a silver color similar to stock, but I want a different finish. I'll have to look at other people's setups to see what I can put my spin on.
 

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The only issue with GTE covers on a GE head is this right here. One of the holes doesn't line up right.
Awesome info; wish I'd known it 6 months ago. If I'm seeing your picture correctly, the only mismatch between GTE valve covers and GE head is one bolt on the outboard side of the exhaust cover.

Which implies the IGN1A smart coil brackets designed to jive with the valve cover bolts will fit the GE head.

If your'e willing to spend some time grinding/sanding/finishing, I'd think it'd be pretty straightforward to cut off the existing ear that's in the wrong spot - and weld a new one on in the right spot. Then drill the hole, file it all flat, sand it to match...

I'll powdercoat your cam covers if you want. I have wrinkle black and metallic silver - but I'll coat them with any powder you send my way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #320 ·
Awesome info; wish I'd known it 6 months ago. If I'm seeing your picture correctly, the only mismatch between GTE valve covers and GE head is one bolt on the outboard side of the exhaust cover.

Which implies the IGN1A smart coil brackets designed to jive with the valve cover bolts will fit the GE head.
This is correct. Every other hole is in it's correct position except that one.

If your'e willing to spend some time grinding/sanding/finishing, I'd think it'd be pretty straightforward to cut off the existing ear that's in the wrong spot - and weld a new one on in the right spot. Then drill the hole, file it all flat, sand it to match...
That's a good idea and would be the proper way to do the retrofit, but I might just remove it entirely and run a little silicone along it. Should be fine. I'm neither the first or last person to do this, so I'll do some digging.

I'll powdercoat your cam covers if you want. I have wrinkle black and metallic silver - but I'll coat them with any powder you send my way.
I appreciate your offer and if I didn't already have a local guy I'd consider it. I can bother him easier and he's only a 10 minute drive from my house.
 
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