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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
Yeah man I pressure washed my underside after every oil change and it still gets gross on top of the steering rack and the “A” brace. I got it from the top when I had the motor out though. Factory fresh till the next oil change. I really hate doing an oil change on this thing. I haven’t done it since I deleted the GTE oil cooler so maybe I won’t want to scream as much now.

You need to get a Laile Beatrush Aluminum underpanel. You got a lot of JDM stuff already. I been wanting one but shit keeps coming up to spend money on. I don’t really love the one LRB Racing makes. I do have their radiator panel though. Pretty nice.
That's why I got the oil filter relocation, I was sick of reaching up and getting oil all over everything. Me, the driveway, etc. But, honestly now is the time to buy, the Yen is hurting right now and I should keep it "on brand." I saw that LRB stuff but wasn't too into it. I wonder how the Beatrush one would fit considering it was designed for a 3S-GE oil pan. I was also considering another Cusco brace that goes between the frame rails behind the radiator, since I don't have a crash bar anymore. Just more stuff to waste money on when I should be finalizing the turbo setup and getting a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #242 · (Edited)
Repolished my Nardi Classic with some hand polish. You can hardly tell it has about 30,000 miles on it. Or about 666 hours going 45mph on it, which doesn't seem like much. Then again I rarely drive over 1 hour at a time.

Yes I still have the box, this was my first big mod to the car back when it was automatic. I've never really cared about DBW or cruise control since then. HKB makes a cruise control hub which would be really cool, so I'm considering buying a GTE upper intake manifold to keep on the backburner.
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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
What a wreck under here. I can't wait to clean all this up, but for now I'll have to make do.
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Hopefully this lasts a little longer, without a spell of misfiring after about 10 minutes of driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #245 ·
Just slide the heat shrink down. Out of sight, out of mind. I’m sure they last long enough though. I’ve seen/done worst. And those the LS extra hot truck coils?
Oh yeah, LQ9 coil packs, the guy on eBay was probably confused on why I bought only 6 instead of 8 lol. The wacky heat shrink isn't even the issue, it's the botched fix that I did, at least I hope. I really don't want to deal with diagnosing something else. Also, I don't recommend doing LQ9 coil packs with the wrap around intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
Why’s the insulation damaged on the wire? You gonna go FFIM + R35 COP?
It's damaged because It has to be. I saw on here or maybe CL that you "can't do LS coil packs with the stock throttle body." I wanted to anyway. The original reason was I thought I had a break up, but it was actually my boost cut being set at 5 psi. So I went to swap out the perfectly fine OEM wasted spark setup with these LQ9 coil packs. It worked just fine, but I had to cut down the middle two. I then had to cut the connectors so the wires come out of the side rather than straight up. I now have to put a piece of thick plastic over the exposed wires so the throttle body doesn't touch it. It allowed me to delete the ignitor and a lot of stock wiring, but it also made my auto transmission act weird, lost idle control and I had to wire up the tach wire from my standalone to my cluster. Yes I am going FFIM, but I'm going to keep my LQ9 coil packs because I already have them. I already have every part to do so except the DODO intake runners. Long winded answer, but it's a little light on the situation.
 

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The LS coils are great, much cheaper than the r35 coils. It should support well above 600+hp. Grabbing a replacement from a junkyard is also not too difficult and very cheap.

And for what it’s worth, I had ignition breakup at ~130kpa with copper spark plugs with 0.019” gap. I switched to iridium with 0.028” gap, same heat range,( one colder than stock and I checked the plugs to make sure it didn’t seem too hot) and it ran perfectly to 200kpa (29psi). All of these on the stock ignition setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #249 ·
No pics, but fixed the oil filter housing tonight. The throttle lock comes in tomorrow, so I should be driving it then as well. Hate to admit it, but I might buy some fake Ganadors on purpose in the future. Aero Twenty Three seems to offer a pretty nice reproduction Ganador style mirror for a pretty decent price considering. They are power and are better for LHD vehicles. I think I'll try them out after I rebuild my wheels. Time will tell.
Time has told that this came true.
 

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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
Found out the intermittent misfire issue. One of the grounds on the cylinder #2 coil pack was crimped too tight and ended up making a poor connection. Good thing I have the supplies to make a whole harness so I could fix it no problem.
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Discussion Starter · #253 ·
Classic CXRacing moment. My wastegate finally kicked the bucket and stuck open. Thank god it wasn't stuck closed to pop the motor. Kinda annoying, I thought I just popped a coupler, but I needed a new wastegate anyway. Even closer to being 100% de-eBay'd. Still bought the gate off the Real St. eBay store. Of course I got the silver one and of course I'm going to polish the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #256 ·
Man you need to set up a boost cut parameter on your EMU. It’ll cut ignition if you overboost. Kinda scary hitting it but saves the motor.
I actually do have a boost cut set. My tune isn't perfect, but I have most of the bases covered. Actually all I needed to do was reseat the spring and the wastegate seals fine under normal driving conditions. I'm still going to replace it with a TIAL MVR, which should be here Wednesday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #257 ·
One of the many perks of living in the beautiful Gunshine state is that Reat St. and Induction Performance (and soon Grannas Racing) are a business day away when it comes to shipping. Sometimes even next day. So lucky for me, my Tial MVR came today.

Here's what comes in the box: (out of shot is a piece of paper that shows what a wastegate is and where it goes)
Digital camera Reflex camera Camera lens Point-and-shoot camera Camera

Automotive tire Tire Automotive wheel system Gas Automotive lighting


They call that polish?
Gas Nickel Drinkware Glass Tin


They don't. This is just 1000 grit wet and hand polish. I wanted to keep the logo and part number, so I didn't go crazy, still turned out good.
Gas Glass Rim Electric blue Engineering

Packing materials Jewellery Electric blue Shipping box Nickel


What's that ladder doing up there?
Automotive lighting Kitchen appliance Mixer Gas Rim


Here's the old CXRacing wastegate. This thing's been with me through thick and thin. By that I mean exactly two years and for that period of time, in the back of my mind, I always knew that it would be something that needed to be replaced. The thing is, it was being very reliable, more than I've seen on other forums. Some people said they last a week, some say months, I say about two years, give or take a few days.
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You vs the guy she tells you not to worry about. Insert wacky quote about short kings I was always worried about doing a recirculated wastegate due to differences in the wastegate's footprint. Glad I never got one done, even though I hate the dump's sound. Hey, if it didn't dump, I never would have known something was wrong. Also hey, the Tial won't fail like that so I can now do a recirc with no stress.
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You can just tell the Tial flows a bit more than the CXRacing, even though they're both 44mm. Despite being shorter, the Tial has a much taller chamber, so the flow path is much more direct. Just look at the pics:
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I even gave the dump tube a spit shine while I was there. Can't put back dirty parts, especially ones people won't see. Even that A brace bolt is nice and clean still.
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So there's that. Next to no "eBay" parts left on the car. Feels good. Once I replace that CXRacing manifold, it'll all be name brand. I never thought the day would come, to be honest. I never thought this dumb little car would turn into a dumber and littler car that costs about the same as a 100,000 mile ISF. All that's really left for the motor is the FFIM and getting a dyno tune. Oh, and fixing that pesky oil leak, I think it's the valve covers this time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #258 ·
Miscellaneous updates: Got my Works Bell hub finally and got that installed. Too bad my steering rack bushings re-centered my rack and made my wheel crooked. A little thing that I don't mention is my battery relocation. I have it in my spare tire well, closer to the axle. I did it on a weekend using my amplifier power wire and a breaker from the auto parts store. Fast forward a year or so and you can tell something's off. The power wire got all melty (uh oh) so that got fixed. Then the ground wire got all ashy (uh oh again). I have since upgraded the ground to a 1/0 wire and replaced the power wire to the breaker in the trunk with the same. It cranks so fast now. I need to figure out a way to hook up the starter, fuse box and alternator to it, I might just use lugs and 3 lengths of wire to make it modular. So if I want to tuck something like the fuse box, I can take it off and have it be a clean removal. Box of stuff from Japan is still at customs as far as I can tell, it's been about 11 days now. Strange since it's really just some books and a strut bar. Also my Xcessive Manufacturing driveshaft came in today. It's CV so it shouldn't vibrate like the DriftMotion one, and I think it'll be much lighter since it's a 3" shaft vs a 3.5" one. Really looking forward to that, pics + install likely tomorrow afternoon.

That was a lot more text than it should have been.
 
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