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_Zaclemore's Build Thread

25830 Views 452 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  Theneil300, 
_zaclemore
10
Timeline so far:
2019: Got the car. Low, intake, exhaust, wheels, eventually did 264 cams and a cam gear.
2020: Turbo IS300 GReddy EMU. stock piston ringlands started to crack
2021: Turbo IS300 ECUMasters EMU Black. rebuilt with 9:1 pistons, TT headgasket, H beams, new bearings, stock main bolts
IS300 Vibrant Catch Can Setup

2022:
New Motor Installed
Driveshaft came and installed!
Tach Swap
First drive
New Wheel Project
Second Drive
First Drive Worth Actually Noting
The first drive of real worth because my brakes didn't lock up on me this time
Radiator Upgrade
Clutch Stopper
Finished Wheels + Q45 Throttle Body
FReddy Intake
Wheel Pics
Diff Bushings
Subframe Collars/Broadway Mirror/GS RUCA
Trunk Deck Part 1
Fixing Stuff
GReddy Kangaroo Bag + Pics
Injector Upgrade
Subframe Bushings + Rack Bushings
Tial MVR Install
Driveshaft Received
Sequoia Alternator Mod
Extended Rear Lug Studs
Ganador Replicas Acquired
Driveshaft (again)
Ganador Replica Photos
DODO runners + turbo manifold
New(ish) Head Acquired
Altezza Cluster Install

2023:
Putting the Altezza Cluster on the backburner
Totally awesome HID install
Cylinder Head Parts arrive
Cam removal + Head build start
Valve Cover Polishing
Radium Fun Time
(re)Built Head returns
PCV Breather Tuck
Cusco Rear Strut Bar Install
Cusco Front Upper Control Arm
Parts back from welder
Final polishing
Power steering tidy up
Ruined surprise
Awful discovery
What the bay should look like
Driver side wire tuck begins
ABS delete
Assembled rotating assembly
Seats installed

Mod List (All current parts/mods):
Engine/Engine Bay:
87mm 9:1 Manley Pistons
Eagle H-Beam rods
ACL bearings
Stock main caps
New OEM main cap bolts
Brian Crower BC264 cams
Brian Crower BC0300S
Titan Motorsport v2 cam gear
Real Street belt tensioner
OEM Toyota timing belt
ARP head studs
Tomei 1.2mm head gasket
ATI damper, smaller size
Vibrant catch can
Shaved polished GTE valve covers
Shaved and painted GTE plug cover
Looped power steering cooler
Suspicious Garage power steering line
Some Thailand turbo manifold
Comp Turbo CTR 3693S 360
CXRacing downpipe
TiAL MVR
Custom exhaust
GReddy RS muffler
Treadsone TR1035
GM IAT sensor
GReddy Airinx filter
ECUMaster EMU Black
Battery relocation
FIGS Engineering hood struts
90% wire tuck
Sequoia alternator

Fuel Delivery:
Single AEM 340
1000cc Bosch EV6 injectors
Radium DMR fuel pressure regulator
-8AN feed line
-6AN return line
Modded stock fuel hat to accept return line
Radium fuel rail
GM FlexFuel sensor

Drivetrain:
AR5 from 2006 Pontiac Solstice
R154 conversion parts, bearing retainer, etc
CUBE Speed JZX110 Verossa shifter
Stock R154 pressure plate
DriftMotion 19lb flywheel
ARP flywheel bolts
ARP pressure plate bolts
Stage 3.5 Kevlar DriftMotion clutch disc
OEM Clutch Master Cylinder
Xcessive Manufacturing clutch pedal
Xcessive Manufacturing 3" CV driveshaft
Stock auto LSD
SuperPro differential bushings
SuperPro subframe supplement bushings

Suspension/Brakes:
Silver's coilovers 14k/12k
Eibach sway bars front/back
Cusco Front/Rear Tower Bar
Cusco Front Upper Control Arm
Roll center adjuster
LS400 Brakes
R1Concepts brake rotors
R1Concepts ceramic pads
StopTech brake lines
ABS deleted with bent hardlines
Motul RBF600
SuperPro Steering Rack Bushings
Weds Kranze Borphes 18x9 +35/18x10 +38 (rebuilt)
Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 F:225/40/18 R:255/35/18

Interior:
Nardi Clasico
Works Bell hub
GReddy shift knob
Cusco drift knob
Juran Racing slider seat brackets
Reupholstered Recaro LS seats
White LED conversion
JDM center console+ebrake
Clarion M508 head unit
Scoshe trim
Soundstream Reserve RSM4.1200D amplifier
Infinity 6.5 up front, 6x9 out back
Sound deadened headliner, rear seats + trunk
Vibration dampened door cards
Altezza cluster swap

Exterior:
Painted taillights/ Altezza light delete
Tinted side markers
GReddy Kangaroo Bag
Aero Twenty Three mirrors
WIndow tint

Most recent pic (rearranged for thumbnail):
Hood Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Automotive air manifold


For starters, here's how it looked a day before it came apart(2021 setup), gross:
Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Car Automotive air manifold


I forgot to take pictures of the wire tuck that I did for the ABS relocation and DRL relay thing I stuck under the fender. I'll update in the morning or so.
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Car


Car Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design


Car Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle


Outerwear Automotive tire Tire Hood Motor vehicle




Anyway, the main point of the thread--I polished some stuff.
Hood Automotive tire Gas Automotive lighting Machine


Before:
Household hardware Gas Watch Automotive tire Jewellery


After:
Household hardware Nickel Automotive wheel system Gas Auto part


Drinkware Serveware Couch Automotive tire Dishware


So for a first timer it's not so bad, I'm going to go over it again because I missed some spots and it's not that hard to touch up. Smoothed out the casting marks and went right over the Comp Turbo logo. There's also a few tighter spots that I can't hit until I get some cone felt tip polishing bits. Figured it would be interesting, IDK if it really requires its own thread. I also got a GReddy Airinx filter so the color palette is much more in sync.[/U]
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TobiasSing
2
_zaclemore said:
Yesterday I smacked my intercooler against a concrete parking stopper, luckily it just scratched the bottom. I really need to find a new way to know how far I'm parked. I either hear the bumper scrape or my exhaust canister catch the concrete. That won't do, especially if I want a fiberglass kit. Maybe I'll pay attention more.
Click to expand...
I know I commented on someone's thread here about how low their intercooler was. But like Pnut00 said, I installed a camera on the front of mine and hooked it to my aftermarket headunit screen with the normal video input. So I had a backup cam for reverse, and a normal front driving camera. It actually worked great, and I never had to smash my lip into curbs anymore.
Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Train Hood


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edit, nevermind, you don't want a screen lol
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_zaclemore
TobiasSing said:
I know I commented on someone's thread here about how low their intercooler was. But like Pnut00 said, I installed a camera on the front of mine and hooked it to my aftermarket headunit screen with the normal video input. So I had a backup cam for reverse, and a normal front driving camera. It actually worked great, and I never had to smash my lip into curbs anymore.

edit, nevermind, you don't want a screen lol
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I appreciate the engagement either way.
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Pnut00
_zaclemore said:
I really like my single din radio, because it does one thing and one thing well: be a radio.
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I hear you there, I am personally not a fan of double din with screens either, but then i am old and like to just hit a physical button and go without the distraction of a big screen :D . Mostly i dont like the light at night time reflecting from the big double din screen onto the windscreen.
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Pnut00
You can get monitor screens in the rear view mirror, might be a bit more discreet?
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_zaclemore
Pnut00 said:
You can get monitor screens in the rear view mirror, might be a bit more discreet?
Click to expand...
But then what would I do with my eBay Broadway mirror, come on, think!!
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_zaclemore
FYI: Don't tally up the total you put into your car.
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_zaclemore
4
New 1000cc Bosch EV6 injectors came in today. Feels nice to get brand new parts in the mail and to piece them together. Everything's modified on this car, even the injectors are modded. The top is what it'll look like fully assembled and the bottom are the individual parts. Going from left to right: 11mm fuel rail adapter, injector, then I have options. The top one is the GE VVTi runner adapter, which I need for my car as of now. Once the DODO Racing runners come in, I'm not too sure whether to use the aluminum adapter in the middle and the stock O ring or swap it out with the black grommet. Maybe I should email Aaron before it's too late to make a return.
Auto part Machine Engineering Gas Automotive wheel system


Here they are all together, ready for install. Yes they come with pigtails as well.
Circuit component Font Electronic component Audio equipment Auto part


I also picked up a big piece to the puzzle. The DriftMotion 2 wire IACV. This is going to be a game changer once I have the Q45 throttle set up. Consistent idle control is such an underrated feature haha. It'll be nice to have the AC not kill my RPM when it's idling also. It uses a Supra check valve so it can hold boost reliably. It also uses -10 AN lines, so I'll need to find a black 180 degree fitting to keep my install looking clean on the topside.
Table Camera lens Reflex camera Wood Auto part


I also got some turbo hardware for when I swap out the manifold. Pretty sure I'm going with the SPA cast runner style one.
Material property Adapter Rectangle Adapter Wire


Progress is going to slow down even further since college is starting up again soon. Good thing I saved up some money for a certain auction that I may or may not be winning that may or may not be the stupidest idea I've had in a while.
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Hodgdon Extreme
_zaclemore said:
This is going to be a game changer once I have the Q45 throttle set up. Consistent idle control is such an underrated feature haha. It'll be nice to have the AC not kill my RPM when it's idling also.
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Are you using closed loop idle control that ramps in/out spark timing to increase/decrease torque to maintain consistent rpm despite changing engine loads?
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_zaclemore
Hodgdon Extreme said:
Are you using closed loop idle control that ramps in/out spark timing to increase/decrease torque to maintain consistent rpm despite changing engine loads?
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I was using spark timing idle control but I believe my car's been misfiring at idle longer than I had realized, so it had little effect. It was relatively smooth, but not inline 6 smooth, cleared up once I started going so I figured that's just how it was going to be. That was until my buddy said something and made me go into a panic. Went home and unplugged injector 1 and the car idled the same. Spooky. I thought new injectors would fix it and I'm sure they will, but let's leave that dumpster fire for the next post.
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_zaclemore
7
Oh yeah it's IS300 time.
Motor vehicle Bicycle part Auto part Gas Rim


Thank god my valves just happen to be closed.
Mouth Eyelash Human body Jaw Automotive tire


Injector install was really easy once every last thing was apart. Just pop those stupid brittle plastic pieces out from the inside, slip in the new ones with a little oil on the tips. Of course nothing's plug and play, the Bosch units were about 6mm taller if I had to guess. I used the "Denso cushions" to add on to the factory spacers. If you unbolt the fuel line from the block, this increased height is no issue.
Automotive tire Bicycle part Lego Toy Motor vehicle


I only had 4 pieces of heat shrink that matched my wiring, so I used a larger size for the other wire to cling to. They should really pay me more.
Bicycle tire Automotive tire Plant Bicycle fork Bicycle handlebar


Looks good enough for me. It definitely won't me moving around on me.
Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior


Of course all good things must come to an end. I noticed a little leak and went to inspect. To be fair I saw a crack in this earlier, but figured I could just test it out if I was nice with it. I guess I wasn't nice with it. Overnighted a replacement plus a -10AN 180 for the IACV. Overnight shipping only cost $3 more than standard so I figured why not.

Also a huge puddle of oil under the car with no signs of leaks anywhere. Super strange but it might just be leftover that I didn't clean up. Noticed some oil on the bellhousing but inside it was dry. I still have the UV dye in the system. Nothing on the intake side, which is funny because I saw some from the topside, checked it and nothing was glowing at all except the orange of the injectors. Checked the catch can, nothing, valve cover breathers had a little, but not enough to cause that puddle, along with no evidence of runoff. For once, my oil pan was void of oil, on the outside that is. Just the hairiest of hairs of oil by my turbo return line. Next time I have it apart I swear to God I'm welding a bung to it. I knew I should have when it was apart last and it isn't going back together next time until it's welded. I mentioned something to the engine builder, but I told him to forget it. What an idiot.
Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Motor vehicle Engineering

Motor vehicle Automotive design Publication Hood Automotive exterior

At least I still have my polish.
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Kris OK
_zaclemore said:
Overnighted a replacement
Click to expand...
From Japan, of course?

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Those are nice injectors - it’s the ones that ID builds theirs from. Hope it’ll fix your issues. Those valve stems are pretty bad dirty, are your seals old?
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_zaclemore
Kris OK said:
From Japan, of course?

View attachment 142072

Those are nice injectors - it’s the ones that ID builds theirs from. Hope it’ll fix your issues. Those valve stems are pretty bad dirty, are your seals old?
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Of course, haha. Ontario, Japan to be precise. The valve stems are stained because all I did was change the seals when I did my valve springs. Next time, and there will be a next time, I will either clean these up or do GSC or BC valves. Along with cleaning the head.
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persocon
i overnighted a 777 engine from San Francisco to Tokyo, cost was $155,000 in 2016 lol. one of our 777 had a catastrophic engine failure so we overnight a good spare pratt & whitney 4090 112 inch diameter (blade tip to tip, with the fan cowling maybe 120”). of course the bad engine took the slow way back.
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Kris OK
persocon said:
pratt & whitney 4090 112 inch diameter
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That really would decimate all!
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_zaclemore
The oil leak is passable for now. I had the car come up to temp and there was a drip the size of a dime, I can live with that. I got the new fitting in and let me tell you. You don't know what you're missing out on if you don't get decent injectors. I forgot how smooth a JZ could be, I thought since it was a built motor with cams, it just rumbled a bit. My shift knob doesn't wiggle anymore at idle, the engine is quieter, it's just nice. Drove it about 50 miles Friday and it was great.
Automotive tire Drum Automotive wheel system Auto part Personal protective equipment


The auction I was talking about was for a pair of SSR Agle Minerva wheels. Honestly my favorite wheel, but the car started acting up so I didn't up my bid. I lost by 1,000JPY which at this point is probably less than $70. So L for me. On the other hand, I picked up some more SuperPro bushings from a forum member and from Figs. Set of rear diff supplement bushings and steering rack bushings.

On another note, I have lost complete faith in Driveshaft Shop. They took over 10 days to respond to my first email, then after I asked for an invoice, nothing. It's been 23 days and if they don't want my money, then fine. Xcessive Manufacturing can take that business from you.
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T
I like having driveshafts made at my local place, measuring for it isn’t hard and if you buy the hard parts (slip yoke for your application and the guibo adapter and know what you want your good, and you don’t have to pay shipping
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_zaclemore
2
Totally not a filler post. Things have been super slow, but at least the car looks cool. I sold my NRG hub and quick release so I could get a proper Works Bell hub. Turns out after 30,000 miles with an aftermarket wheel, you start to miss it. I really hate the feel of the stock wheel, but RHDJapan is taking their sweet time so I'll just have to complain for a while longer. Speaking of stuff from Japan, I mentioned that I lost those SSR Minervas, but what I didn't mention is that I'm stupid and said "well if I was going to spend $X on wheels anyway..." So I have a bunch of stuff coming from Japan hopefully by the end of the month or so. I probably should have bought an SPA manifold when they were still in stock.

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Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Vehicle Car


Yes the bumper is back on now.
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Kris OK
Holy cow that Canary Island Date Palm! Those clouds and that blue sky! I want to live in Florida!
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_zaclemore
6
This thing's gonna be a SuperPro demo car at some point. Did my steering rack bushings and gave the A brace some well needed cleaning. You don't realize how much grime sticks to the top of that thing. I probably should have got a Cusco A brace, but oh well. Driver's side is the hardest part, but if you have a long enough screw like I did, it becomes a lot easier. Passenger side is cake, just drops right in. Also check out the undertray, I never thought I'd see the day where that was back on the car, it's been probably around 3 years as well.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design Wheel


Here's the device I used to press out the bushings. That aluminum thing is from my FReddy intake manifold actually, I think it threads onto a flange for the stock IACV to bolt on to. I don't have a Supra so it was as good as trash to me. Just so happened to have a 4" or so machine threaded screw and a matching wingnut. This made my job so much easier. I turned the wingnut by hand it started coming right out. The SuperPros just slide right in with the provided grease. I hope whoever does this job next actually needs these, the steering feels a little sharper, but my stock ones felt 95% as good.
Automotive tire Gas Auto part Automotive wheel system Cylinder


Here's where the fun starts. Dropping the subframe isn't hard, it's just annoying. I thought I could just soften my dampers and have it sag. That doesn't work. You have to unbolt the coilovers at the top, unbolt the subframe itself while supporting it, then the 4 bolts that hold the bracing to the front subframe bolt. That's not so bad right? What is bad is you have to pivot the subframe on a jack with a wood piece on the saddle, using the driveshaft as a brace. Oh and the exhaust is in the way too. These rear mounts have 2" locating studs (sort of) so you can't just slip the new supplement bushings over them like with the solid ones. You have to grab it and pull it down about 2.5" to get it through.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Alloy wheel


Notice the red here? Make sure you put the factory snubber washers back in place or you'll have to torque 4 bolts to 96 ft-lbs twice. Or just read the instructions.
Product Automotive lighting Automotive tire Grey Gas


Same for here, put the snubbers where they belong! These supplement bushings are just designed to fill the air gaps.
Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Bumper Automotive exterior


So a lot of time "invested" into some mods that I barely notice, nice. I feel like on the shifts, it feels like a nice compliment to the diff bushings in the way it reduces clunking. Like the diff bushings took away 90% then these did the last 10%. NVH might be a little higher in the vibration, but if you're on coilovers you won't notice. Nothing like those solid Ikeya Formula ones that you could really hear the diff noise through. Maybe these make the car spin straight and not kick out as much, since it eliminates most of the subframe movement, maybe it makes it hold the alignment better. Oh well.
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Kris OK
Yeah man I pressure washed my underside after every oil change and it still gets gross on top of the steering rack and the “A” brace. I got it from the top when I had the motor out though. Factory fresh till the next oil change. I really hate doing an oil change on this thing. I haven’t done it since I deleted the GTE oil cooler so maybe I won’t want to scream as much now.

You need to get a Laile Beatrush Aluminum underpanel. You got a lot of JDM stuff already. I been wanting one but shit keeps coming up to spend money on. I don’t really love the one LRB Racing makes. I do have their radiator panel though. Pretty nice.
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