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Mr. Roo
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Yesterday I smacked my intercooler against a concrete parking stopper, luckily it just scratched the bottom. I really need to find a new way to know how far I'm parked. I either hear the bumper scrape or my exhaust canister catch the concrete. That won't do, especially if I want a fiberglass kit. Maybe I'll pay attention more.
I know I commented on someone's thread here about how low their intercooler was. But like Pnut00 said, I installed a camera on the front of mine and hooked it to my aftermarket headunit screen with the normal video input. So I had a backup cam for reverse, and a normal front driving camera. It actually worked great, and I never had to smash my lip into curbs anymore.
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edit, nevermind, you don't want a screen lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
I know I commented on someone's thread here about how low their intercooler was. But like Pnut00 said, I installed a camera on the front of mine and hooked it to my aftermarket headunit screen with the normal video input. So I had a backup cam for reverse, and a normal front driving camera. It actually worked great, and I never had to smash my lip into curbs anymore.

edit, nevermind, you don't want a screen lol
I appreciate the engagement either way.
 

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I really like my single din radio, because it does one thing and one thing well: be a radio.
I hear you there, I am personally not a fan of double din with screens either, but then i am old and like to just hit a physical button and go without the distraction of a big screen :D . Mostly i dont like the light at night time reflecting from the big double din screen onto the windscreen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
New 1000cc Bosch EV6 injectors came in today. Feels nice to get brand new parts in the mail and to piece them together. Everything's modified on this car, even the injectors are modded. The top is what it'll look like fully assembled and the bottom are the individual parts. Going from left to right: 11mm fuel rail adapter, injector, then I have options. The top one is the GE VVTi runner adapter, which I need for my car as of now. Once the DODO Racing runners come in, I'm not too sure whether to use the aluminum adapter in the middle and the stock O ring or swap it out with the black grommet. Maybe I should email Aaron before it's too late to make a return.
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Here they are all together, ready for install. Yes they come with pigtails as well.
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I also picked up a big piece to the puzzle. The DriftMotion 2 wire IACV. This is going to be a game changer once I have the Q45 throttle set up. Consistent idle control is such an underrated feature haha. It'll be nice to have the AC not kill my RPM when it's idling also. It uses a Supra check valve so it can hold boost reliably. It also uses -10 AN lines, so I'll need to find a black 180 degree fitting to keep my install looking clean on the topside.
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I also got some turbo hardware for when I swap out the manifold. Pretty sure I'm going with the SPA cast runner style one.
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Progress is going to slow down even further since college is starting up again soon. Good thing I saved up some money for a certain auction that I may or may not be winning that may or may not be the stupidest idea I've had in a while.
 

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This is going to be a game changer once I have the Q45 throttle set up. Consistent idle control is such an underrated feature haha. It'll be nice to have the AC not kill my RPM when it's idling also.
Are you using closed loop idle control that ramps in/out spark timing to increase/decrease torque to maintain consistent rpm despite changing engine loads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
Are you using closed loop idle control that ramps in/out spark timing to increase/decrease torque to maintain consistent rpm despite changing engine loads?
I was using spark timing idle control but I believe my car's been misfiring at idle longer than I had realized, so it had little effect. It was relatively smooth, but not inline 6 smooth, cleared up once I started going so I figured that's just how it was going to be. That was until my buddy said something and made me go into a panic. Went home and unplugged injector 1 and the car idled the same. Spooky. I thought new injectors would fix it and I'm sure they will, but let's leave that dumpster fire for the next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 ·
Oh yeah it's IS300 time.
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Thank god my valves just happen to be closed.
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Injector install was really easy once every last thing was apart. Just pop those stupid brittle plastic pieces out from the inside, slip in the new ones with a little oil on the tips. Of course nothing's plug and play, the Bosch units were about 6mm taller if I had to guess. I used the "Denso cushions" to add on to the factory spacers. If you unbolt the fuel line from the block, this increased height is no issue.
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I only had 4 pieces of heat shrink that matched my wiring, so I used a larger size for the other wire to cling to. They should really pay me more.
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Looks good enough for me. It definitely won't me moving around on me.
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Of course all good things must come to an end. I noticed a little leak and went to inspect. To be fair I saw a crack in this earlier, but figured I could just test it out if I was nice with it. I guess I wasn't nice with it. Overnighted a replacement plus a -10AN 180 for the IACV. Overnight shipping only cost $3 more than standard so I figured why not.

Also a huge puddle of oil under the car with no signs of leaks anywhere. Super strange but it might just be leftover that I didn't clean up. Noticed some oil on the bellhousing but inside it was dry. I still have the UV dye in the system. Nothing on the intake side, which is funny because I saw some from the topside, checked it and nothing was glowing at all except the orange of the injectors. Checked the catch can, nothing, valve cover breathers had a little, but not enough to cause that puddle, along with no evidence of runoff. For once, my oil pan was void of oil, on the outside that is. Just the hairiest of hairs of oil by my turbo return line. Next time I have it apart I swear to God I'm welding a bung to it. I knew I should have when it was apart last and it isn't going back together next time until it's welded. I mentioned something to the engine builder, but I told him to forget it. What an idiot.
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At least I still have my polish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #232 ·
From Japan, of course?

View attachment 142072

Those are nice injectors - it’s the ones that ID builds theirs from. Hope it’ll fix your issues. Those valve stems are pretty bad dirty, are your seals old?
Of course, haha. Ontario, Japan to be precise. The valve stems are stained because all I did was change the seals when I did my valve springs. Next time, and there will be a next time, I will either clean these up or do GSC or BC valves. Along with cleaning the head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 · (Edited)
The oil leak is passable for now. I had the car come up to temp and there was a drip the size of a dime, I can live with that. I got the new fitting in and let me tell you. You don't know what you're missing out on if you don't get decent injectors. I forgot how smooth a JZ could be, I thought since it was a built motor with cams, it just rumbled a bit. My shift knob doesn't wiggle anymore at idle, the engine is quieter, it's just nice. Drove it about 50 miles Friday and it was great.
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The auction I was talking about was for a pair of SSR Agle Minerva wheels. Honestly my favorite wheel, but the car started acting up so I didn't up my bid. I lost by 1,000JPY which at this point is probably less than $70. So L for me. On the other hand, I picked up some more SuperPro bushings from a forum member and from Figs. Set of rear diff supplement bushings and steering rack bushings.

On another note, I have lost complete faith in Driveshaft Shop. They took over 10 days to respond to my first email, then after I asked for an invoice, nothing. It's been 23 days and if they don't want my money, then fine. Xcessive Manufacturing can take that business from you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
Totally not a filler post. Things have been super slow, but at least the car looks cool. I sold my NRG hub and quick release so I could get a proper Works Bell hub. Turns out after 30,000 miles with an aftermarket wheel, you start to miss it. I really hate the feel of the stock wheel, but RHDJapan is taking their sweet time so I'll just have to complain for a while longer. Speaking of stuff from Japan, I mentioned that I lost those SSR Minervas, but what I didn't mention is that I'm stupid and said "well if I was going to spend $X on wheels anyway..." So I have a bunch of stuff coming from Japan hopefully by the end of the month or so. I probably should have bought an SPA manifold when they were still in stock.

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Yes the bumper is back on now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #239 ·
This thing's gonna be a SuperPro demo car at some point. Did my steering rack bushings and gave the A brace some well needed cleaning. You don't realize how much grime sticks to the top of that thing. I probably should have got a Cusco A brace, but oh well. Driver's side is the hardest part, but if you have a long enough screw like I did, it becomes a lot easier. Passenger side is cake, just drops right in. Also check out the undertray, I never thought I'd see the day where that was back on the car, it's been probably around 3 years as well.

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Here's the device I used to press out the bushings. That aluminum thing is from my FReddy intake manifold actually, I think it threads onto a flange for the stock IACV to bolt on to. I don't have a Supra so it was as good as trash to me. Just so happened to have a 4" or so machine threaded screw and a matching wingnut. This made my job so much easier. I turned the wingnut by hand it started coming right out. The SuperPros just slide right in with the provided grease. I hope whoever does this job next actually needs these, the steering feels a little sharper, but my stock ones felt 95% as good.
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Here's where the fun starts. Dropping the subframe isn't hard, it's just annoying. I thought I could just soften my dampers and have it sag. That doesn't work. You have to unbolt the coilovers at the top, unbolt the subframe itself while supporting it, then the 4 bolts that hold the bracing to the front subframe bolt. That's not so bad right? What is bad is you have to pivot the subframe on a jack with a wood piece on the saddle, using the driveshaft as a brace. Oh and the exhaust is in the way too. These rear mounts have 2" locating studs (sort of) so you can't just slip the new supplement bushings over them like with the solid ones. You have to grab it and pull it down about 2.5" to get it through.
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Notice the red here? Make sure you put the factory snubber washers back in place or you'll have to torque 4 bolts to 96 ft-lbs twice. Or just read the instructions.
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Same for here, put the snubbers where they belong! These supplement bushings are just designed to fill the air gaps.
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So a lot of time "invested" into some mods that I barely notice, nice. I feel like on the shifts, it feels like a nice compliment to the diff bushings in the way it reduces clunking. Like the diff bushings took away 90% then these did the last 10%. NVH might be a little higher in the vibration, but if you're on coilovers you won't notice. Nothing like those solid Ikeya Formula ones that you could really hear the diff noise through. Maybe these make the car spin straight and not kick out as much, since it eliminates most of the subframe movement, maybe it makes it hold the alignment better. Oh well.
 

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Yeah man I pressure washed my underside after every oil change and it still gets gross on top of the steering rack and the “A” brace. I got it from the top when I had the motor out though. Factory fresh till the next oil change. I really hate doing an oil change on this thing. I haven’t done it since I deleted the GTE oil cooler so maybe I won’t want to scream as much now.

You need to get a Laile Beatrush Aluminum underpanel. You got a lot of JDM stuff already. I been wanting one but shit keeps coming up to spend money on. I don’t really love the one LRB Racing makes. I do have their radiator panel though. Pretty nice.
 
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