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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
can you not press them out?

Ali will expand more than steel so even heating it up will help.
I probably could, I just don't have a bushing press set. I imagine my friend's bearing press set would work similar. Also one of the bushings has a metal flare on both sides so I'd have to cut anyway. I've seen the air hammer/chisel at work on YouTube and I'm very impressed, might pick one up anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
I'll try to remember to check which model air chisel I've got tonight; its a beast and way way better than a harbor freight special. Pretty sure mines an Ingersoll
I mean for $15 can you really go wrong? Maybe I'll pick up a DeWalt one because I guess I'm one of those guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #185 · (Edited)
Small update, cleaned up the tune, turns out taking out 1* of timing "for safety" can really mess with things. I never thought I'd have to add that much fuel to make it run right, but more fuel (usually) = more power, which we like. That's all good now. I also removed the subframe collars, now the car feels so much nicer. I don't really notice a real "loss" here. No more unnecessary road noise and now I can go over crosswalks without having the whole rear of the car take the shock. RIP $60, if anyone wants them they can have them. Maybe I'll try them with the CV driveshaft, maybe I'll use them as shims for something else lol. I imagine on a drift car they'd make a difference, like Megan Racing advertises for their copy. Definitely not for daily use.

Also, anyone know of a way to convert from air-assist to non-air-assist? Can you just pull the ring and spacer off then use the right size O ring? I really don't want to buy new injectors for when the DODO Racing runners come in.
 

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Strategically using a press on the old rubber can tear out the center of bushings in under a minute with little danger. I used a 6 ton.

Afterwards, a reciprocating saw to cut the outer ring (not completely through to avoid damaging the arm) of the old bushing broke the tight seal, and a screwdriver and mallet got it out pretty easily. Getting them in is easier. Put the bushings in the freezer and heat the control arm.

For the steering rack bushings I used two sockets and a really long bolt that slowly pulled the bushing in. I got the idea from here: How-To Install a Bushing Without a Press | Suspension.com

Also my 6 ton didn't have enough power to press in the #1 control arm bushings. A 20 ton did the trick though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
Do you have a pic of your current injectors?
I do. The white ring is detachable and actually leaked a little boost during my boost leak test. Under regular driving it seems to be fine and the turbo comes on full 12 PSI at 3900 RPM in 4th gear. So it's about right.
Flooring Engineering Gas Automotive lighting Auto part


I wonder if I could epoxy the black "hat" to the injector body and replace the O ring at the tip to make it work. Or maybe I can use SC300 injector hats instead?
 

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That sealing arrangement is called the "denso cushion", which creates a face-seal to the injector bung, rather than the more traditional circumferential seal of most o rings.

I think you might be able to simply remove the cushion and replace the o ring on the injector tip with a thicker one. Not sure, though.

I also ordered one of Dodo's lower manifolds so I'm in similar boat; though I have injector dynamic injectors intended to work with radium injector seats. I'm confident mine will work, but perhaps I'll need different length injector hats on the feed-side of the injector to get the correct effective length.
 

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Mr. Roo
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I also removed the subframe collars, now the car feels so much nicer. I don't really notice a real "loss" here. No more unnecessary road noise and now I can go over crosswalks without having the whole rear of the car take the shock. RIP $60, if anyone wants them they can have them. Maybe I'll try them with the CV driveshaft, maybe I'll use them as shims for something else lol. I imagine on a drift car they'd make a difference, like Megan Racing advertises for their copy. Definitely not for daily use.
I never heard of this, what is this about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
I went out to Home Depot just to find out the DeWalt air hammer was only available online so that's in the mail and should be here soon. I also got my SuperPro ball joint boots in the mail the other day and at very least they'll match the bushings I'm going to purchase down the road. I'm glad the smaller diameter was able to stretch an extra millimeter or two for a nice tight fit. I packed them full of new grease and cleaned them up a little bit. Sure beats having to press against the aluminum to remove and install new ones, especially because these were still so smooth after who knows how many miles.
Crankset Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Alloy wheel


I might set the old bushings on fire just for fun.
 

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I went out to Home Depot just to find out the DeWalt air hammer was only available online so that's in the mail and should be here soon. I also got my SuperPro ball joint boots in the mail the other day and at very least they'll match the bushings I'm going to purchase down the road. I'm glad the smaller diameter was able to stretch an extra millimeter or two for a nice tight fit. I packed them full of new grease and cleaned them up a little bit. Sure beats having to press against the aluminum to remove and install new ones, especially because these were still so smooth after who knows how many miles.
View attachment 141499

I might set the old bushings on fire just for fun.
Those look nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 · (Edited)
Kinda dry lately for updates on the car itself. Only interesting thing I did recently was make a deck for the trunk out of particle board. I traced over the factory plastic piece and used a jigsaw to cut it out. Did a couple test fits and it's in there good. I just laid the factory carpet over it. Now I can actually use my car as a car (wow!). I plan on wrapping it in some gray carpet to make it feel more "factory" but I don't live inside the trunk so we'll see about that.
Automotive tire Wood Floor Flooring Asphalt


I initially traced the wrong side, so I went over the correct side in green.
Rectangle Beige Composite material Tints and shades Concrete

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After some trimming.
Wood Road surface Flooring Composite material Building material


"Final" test fit. Final for this set of pictures.
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You can hardly tell.
Car Hood Automotive lighting Light Trunk


Also I picked up a CANverter off of @Mzs14 . I might try and test it out sometime soon. I plan on using it to give me an AC on/off so I can use the standalone to control the rest, along with its other functions as well. As long as I hook up the clutch output (relay?) and dual pressure switch it should work just fine. I'll also have my fan relay connected to the standalone so it can be used for when the water is too hot or AC which is pretty cool. This also allows me to use the AC idle up for when I get an IACV. It's all falling together and the EMU Black has just enough outputs for my plans to work without having to figure out CAN.
Font Material property Rectangle Parallel Electric blue


I don't believe I posted where my new ECU location is going to be, but I found a spot under the dash that will work perfectly. It'll keep my wiring short which is nice. I planned on reusing the boot that goes through the firewall but then I'd have to tuck the fusebox as well, but the motor is in the way of all that wiring so it'll stay. So I'll just poke the wires through like I have been then I'll use silicone to seal it up. If I ever paint the bay I'll tuck that box but there are like 10 zip ties along the firewall holding my brake lines to that wiring.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Steering part Automotive design Vehicle

Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire Steering part Car


Bottle of threadlocker for size reference.
Liquid Automotive tire Tire Fluid Plastic bottle


Beside that the car is running well. No issues in weeks which is really nice. Hoping it stays that way. I'll update with some pics later.
 
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