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The LS coils are great, much cheaper than the r35 coils. It should support well above 600+hp. Grabbing a replacement from a junkyard is also not too difficult and very cheap.

And for what it’s worth, I had ignition breakup at ~130kpa with copper spark plugs with 0.019” gap. I switched to iridium with 0.028” gap, same heat range,( one colder than stock and I checked the plugs to make sure it didn’t seem too hot) and it ran perfectly to 200kpa (29psi). All of these on the stock ignition setup.
 

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Of course, I bought the wrong kind of filler. It's fiberglass kind, I figured that it would work since this cover isn't really plastic, you can see some sort of fiber/composite makeup on the underside and where I've sanded it. I'm sure I could make it work, but I'll exchange it for the right stuff tomorrow.
Is it not plastic? I’d imagine it would just be a nylon of some kind. Though, I do tend to think every plastic in a car is typically nylon. See if there’s a marking that says something to the extent of PA6GF or PPGF. From what I can find, other Toyota engine covers are PA6GF. PA is nylon so you can use whatever best bonds to nylon.
 

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Got the right Bondo for the job today. I made the decision with the insight of @AlwaysBroken's post above and opted for the bumper repair kit. Just followed the instructions and went on my way.
View attachment 143635
Seems like a good choice. You might have to watch out for how it behaves after a bunch of heat cycles though. (JB weld hasn’t fared that great in my experience with engine bay heat but that might be my lack of prep. Not all that comparable to the stuff you got besides both being epoxy.) It’ll be a lot better than normal bondo regardless. Polyester resin has no place on a car anywhere imo.

3M also makes a less branded version of this. It’s called 3M EZ sand multi purpose repair material. It’s a lot cheaper for the amount you get. If you ever need a bunch for other flexible body filler projects, it might be a good fit.

Also, wow that’s shiny. I don’t even want to know how long that takes.
 

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After the reseal, it's looking better than ever. It's also sealing better than ever too. You can see that O-ring I was talking about, be sure to add more if necessary. (HINT: it is)
Apparently they leak when used in Lotus too. Not a new problem it seems. In the case of the Lotus application, it was because the fittings hit the cover plate. Maybe this is something to check here too?
 

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I doomscrolled some on the Lotus version, too. The thread I read had a lot of “pissing contest” content between the contributors but it concluded that any torsion placed on the fitting caused a leak. So if the fuel line is flexing the fitting, it’ll leak.
I see…so if it’s installed, it leaks? 😂 Undersized O-ring maybe? Or god forbid some dumbass used fake sizes on a metric part. I’ve seen it happen before.
 

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Usually the manufacturers of silicone hose say its not suitable for use with oil. Material compatibility charts confirm this - but that doesn't reconcile against felpro silicone rubber gaskets or silicone gasket maker.
There’s another type of silicone, FVMQ. Fluorosilicone. It’s a much more chemically resistant version of the normal stuff. Fine for motor oil and gas. I came across it when researching if I could submerge DT connectors in gas/E85. The normals DT connectors had silicone seals and will fail whereas the expensive (EXPENSIVE) stuff has FVMQ seals and would has been fine.

first image results show bright blue o rings for Fvmq so I’d imagine that’s what Fel pro is using(LS valve cover gaskets). Or maybe not since that crap swells so much after the first install that they are not reusable.I think I measured them to be 1” longer after a meager 100 miles.

You could always test the hoses by submerging them in oil and just see what happens. It won’t be representative of the use case but it should tell you how oil compatible it is.
 
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