[Kris OK]

Hey it’s looking like you will be up and running before too long. I went with the Fluidampr pulley for that very reason - it doesnt have to be machined like the ATi. That billet crank gear is pretty boss, I haven’t seen that one yet. PHR used to weld the non-VVTi one to make it strong since it was two pieces. The VVTi is one piece stock but not nearly as pretty as the billet. I spied a RS billet timing belt pulley too. Got all the bases covered!

 

[Kris OK]

Can you put a bash bar in with that Treadstone IC? I figure the factory one won’t fit, but there’s a few aftermarket ones out there. I don’t remember the brand I got, but it’s lean enough that the CX-R IC would clear it without having to “neck” down for the stock bar.

 

[Kris OK]

power and are better for LHD vehicles

That’s 2 good reasons to buy the reps.

I couldn’t drop the 1000$+ for real ones without worrying someone will knock them off and break them. I think it might negate from the driving experience if I had real ones. It would make me think twice…should I take the Solara today or drive the IS?

I put the power folders on mine and swapped to LHD glass because the RHD glass was pretty much useless. Wasn’t terrible just some ******* engineering but works perfect.

 

[Kris OK]

. I imagine this needs a special switch or a specific trim piece?

Yep, you just swap out the IS’s mirror adjustment switch for the Altezza switch. There’s a little button that engages the fold, or I’ve also seen modules that will interface with alarms and keyless entries to open/close the mirrors with your remote.

lol I guess red neck is a banned word. I’m from Oklahoma so I embrace it haha!

 

[Kris OK]

I should be driving it then as well.

Well did she run? With no leaks?

auto close/open on key in/out setting in the ECU via techstream

That’s pretty cool. I don’t think the IS has that feature in Techstream. It’s pretty limited. Like you can adjust if it unlocks all the doors, or just the driver door with keyless; something about the AC being “on” every time you get in, and that may have been it. The folding mirrors was just a flex on my part. They were cheap and I like a challenge. The RH one gets jammed up and you have to help it about 30% of the time. But they are pretty cool.

Nothing wrong with a little red neck pride, Kris 😎

No sir, it gets it done! Don’t matter if it’s my Lexus or my John Deere 😂

 

[Kris OK]

I set my idle while my AC was on so when I drove up this morning with it off it started idling high, now I know why.

You should be able to set an “AC idle offset” in your standalone software. So it’ll bump the idle up a certain rpm or percent (however your ecu handles it) when the AC is on. The way I did it on Infinity was to install a relay that was triggered by the fans (this way it’ll bump idle when AC is on, or when the Is300 ecu calls for cooling). The relay outputs a signal to a digital input on the infinity that triggers the AC idle bump. I had to use a relay because the fans trigger on a (-) output and the digital inputs require a (+) input, so the relay reversed the polarity. I think. Lol. It’s been awhile since I wired it, so I may have it backwards. But it is wired this way and does work.

Wait I typed all that because it’s for a DBW setup, but I remember you got rid of DBW, right? So are you using an IACV to regulate idle? I’m sure you can set up similar to open the IACV on AC request.

 

[Kris OK]

bushing

I remember replacing the car’s bushings. Some were fun, some were hell. The rear bushings on the diff were hell getting out til I got a air chisel. Then they were gravy, literally. The juice came out. I had to build a jig to get the replacements pressed in cuz theres not room to beat them in with a mallet. The diff’s stub shaft bolts sucked too.

I’d not seen that greddy diff cover. That is some nice kit. Not cheap either. I’d have to debate spending that, vs getting a GS big diff, LSD, and replacing the axles.

 

[Kris OK]

picked up some GS aluminum rear upper control arms.

What’s the advantage, besides weight? Do they change the camber or what?

I would say burn them out, but Al melts at a pretty low temp. So I’d get a coping saw and put the blade thru the hole and cut thru the rubber and metal collar. It’s tedious AF but I don’t think I’d go beating on it or cooking it for fear of damaging the thing. Do you have an air chisel? They are cheap at HF. They work great at crushing the metal bushing collar and driving it out. I don’t know if it would damage the cast Al though.

 

[Kris OK]

It’s up and out of the way, that’s nice. I remember back in the day before I was a nurse, I sold and installed audio equipment. The old amps back then didn’t love being installed upside down. They’d get hot. These new amps are all class D and more power goes to the speaker than is lost as heat. That thing dont even have heat sinks!

The stock rears are 6x9s. I cant tell if you’ve got 6x9s or 8’s in there, the perspective makes it hard to tell. I know they’re Infinity’s. If you want to tighten up the sound even more, get a weather baffle for them.

 

[Kris OK]

Now I'm sold haha.

😂 It really does make them sound better. It’s like comparing a sub in a box vs a sub in an infinite baffle. I know I put them on my 6.5” up front. I don’t remember having to do any voodoo to get them to fit. You’re right though, on some cars the window can get it due to insufficient clearance.

 

[Kris OK]

I vote for the SPA 2JZGE cast tube manifold. I’ve got the CX GTE but if SPA made a cast tube for GTE, I would switch. WTH am I talking about even? My car don’t run 😂

 

[Kris OK]

Overnighted a replacement

From Japan, of course?

Those are nice injectors - it’s the ones that ID builds theirs from. Hope it’ll fix your issues. Those valve stems are pretty bad dirty, are your seals old?

 

[Kris OK]

pratt & whitney 4090 112 inch diameter

That really would decimate all!

 

[Kris OK]

Holy cow that Canary Island Date Palm! Those clouds and that blue sky! I want to live in Florida!

 

[Kris OK]

Yeah man I pressure washed my underside after every oil change and it still gets gross on top of the steering rack and the “A” brace. I got it from the top when I had the motor out though. Factory fresh till the next oil change. I really hate doing an oil change on this thing. I haven’t done it since I deleted the GTE oil cooler so maybe I won’t want to scream as much now.

You need to get a Laile Beatrush Aluminum underpanel. You got a lot of JDM stuff already. I been wanting one but shit keeps coming up to spend money on. I don’t really love the one LRB Racing makes. I do have their radiator panel though. Pretty nice.

 

[Kris OK]

Why’s the insulation damaged on the wire? You gonna go FFIM + R35 COP?

 

[Kris OK]

wasn't stuck closed to pop the motor

Man you need to set up a boost cut parameter on your EMU. It’ll cut ignition if you overboost. Kinda scary hitting it but saves the motor.

 

[Kris OK]

Visibility is limited and at night they're useless, but who cares. The power function is a joke, but you can still manually adjust them. RIP good condition stock mirror wiring.

Car looks great man. I can’t believe how low it is. It would drag so bad here. The Sham-adors turned out great too. Are the real ones any better? I’m too cheap to spend that kinda money but if you really like em, it may be worth it to look good and be functional. I like my JDM power folders with USDM glazing too much to switch. That, and I am a cheap bastard.

 

[Kris OK]

y. It used to look terrible under there, but it's gotten better. Soon, it'll be completely hidden.

Whatchuplanning to do in there? Stock ecu delete? I deleted all the unnecessary wires this summer when I had the motor out. It gets pretty crowded in the ecu box. I love Tesa tape and braided loom.

 

[Kris OK]

Pulled the new one all apart and it's getting a little build soon.

That’ll be a nice build, man. What will that HG put your compression at? Take pics of the big rewire!