Depending on where you bought it i have read of some who have used the cheap seals bought on ebay not sealing and leaking worse than the worn out OEM.Took the front off the motor, and it's hard to tell exactly where the problem is. I'm quite sure that it's the front main seal because if you look here on pic #3: _Zaclemore's Build Thread, you can see on the left side that the seal isn't seated quite right and then the timing belt started slinging it everywhere. I should have checked this, but on the other hand I paid a shop to build the block for me. I should have checked the oil sender bolt, but I paid a shop to build it for me? The rotating assembly didn't fall apart but these issues have me thinking: what's next?
Not meaning to cast any doubts on your buddy, (his workmanship looks great ), but having seen how some of those adaptor plates have to "convert" the air flow into the head personally I doubt a lot of the benefit of changing the plenum over is accomplished. I could be wrong but on the one i saw it had to move an inlet over about 1/2" using an adaptor plate about 1/2" thick, so pretty much a 45degree angle, not good for flow dynamics going ```\__ if you know what i mean. Its been a while since i saw it though...I have a buddy who makes an adapter plate to bolt a GTE plenum to GE runners. Let me know if you want more info.
you are probably right, i am probably too used to NA approach, it is a lot difference with a pressurized system. Still i wonder what benefit the GTE manifold has over GE for a hot street car...The GTE/GE upper/lower manifolds aren't misaligned 0.500", but there is certainly misalignment and therefore a "kink" introduced into the runner. Not ideal, to be sure - but based on my experience with the Ford 2.3 turbo Lima engines I used to play with (which had awful ports and manifolds) - I don't think the kink is anything an extra pound or two of boost won't cure.
It would be an abortion for a performance NA engine, or even a max-effort turbo engine - but I think it'll be ok for a hot street car.
I'm using one of the adaptors from SupraVworld, which is ~10mm thick... but I'm still several months away from the car running. Hopefully I'll be on the dyno sometime this year so I can share data on this. I'll be using the same dyno I was on the first time around so the results should be fairly relevant.
I totally agree it looks better, a lot cleaner bay for sure! I cant argue against personal preference either, to each their own.Regarding the GTE upper intake: I did it primarily for looks. A secondary reason is a shorter and cleaner charge piping arrangement. Some people might argue that'll improve response, but I don't think it's anything measurable. But it makes me feel better. I'm not expecting any performance gain compared to the "over the valvecover" GE intake. But c'mon...the GTE manifold looks way better.
You know, there is such a thing as too many polished parts 🤭I think SPA is the way. Then I'll do a new wastegate too, maybe a TurboSmart, probably the CX downpipe still. I think I should coat my cast iron while I have it out too. Idk if I'll do what @Hodgdon Extreme did with his lol, but It might look cool with the polish.
I hear you there, I am personally not a fan of double din with screens either, but then i am old and like to just hit a physical button and go without the distraction of a big screen . Mostly i dont like the light at night time reflecting from the big double din screen onto the windscreen.I really like my single din radio, because it does one thing and one thing well: be a radio.
What, no polishing? 🤭First package that came contained a brand new set of GTE VVTi valve covers. I have some plans for these, but not what you'd expect. I want to shave down the sides, get them smooth and have them painted or coated. I also really want to use the middle larger PCV openings as tucked catch can lines.
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