Lexus IS Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i posted a thread about my friend who just bought an 01 is300 with 114k miles, he got a great deal on it and it was sold as is, knowing there were a few problems with it, but nothing that couldnt be fixed and the car be fine to drive and still come out paying less then what the car goes for, this particular car hasnt been in any wrecks an scored a 92 on autocheck score, any way, i went with him to florida to pick it up, all went well and we drove it home with no problems, but the check engine like was on and he knew this when we went to buy it, anyway eveything on the car checks out, shifting is nice and firm and handling is fantastic, the front does shake a tad bit in the steeing but i heard the breaks squeal a little so i think thats nothing more than rotors...anyway, when we get back home he decides to open her up a little, and anything past about 1/3 throttle is just BLEHHH, it chokes all up like its starving for gas or to lean, anyway, he gets the most out of it by running it decently hard and getting every bit of fun out of that 1/3 throttle, we stop and i hear some water movement and notice a little steam from the front, open the hood and see a little seapege from the overflow radiator tank and hear the rapid boiling of coolent inside it, although the temp gauge reads normal temp. so we park it for the night and head up to advance auto parts today to check out the CEL, it comes back with 7 different codes, bank 1 and 2 to lean, something about "heater" something and a few other codes like an IAC or IAT code, and dude said like some codes that were lead backed to the 02 sensers, and also the MAF malfunction code, but he looked at the air filter was was like "damn, firs thing would be to replace that, being its so dirty could play the MAF itself, so we replace that, he clears computer and we go ride around for about 20 mins waiting for CEL to come back on, which it did, but this time with the trac off light blinking, the same 7 codes come back up, so right now i figured the smartest and first attempt would be to see why the radiator is getting overly hot but gauge isnt reading it, the car doesnt tick liek it super hot nor does it do this boiling thing if its jus getting some easy driveing ( like around some country roads) but it does do the boiling thing if it just sits and idles for a few minutes or gets ran "sorta hard", i have noticed that the fans DO NOT run at all whilest the engine being on, if you turn engine off and key to on postion, the fans run and dont stop, even sitting like that for 15-20 minutes they are still kicken, even when the car is cold they sit and run with key in on position and engine not being on, but never do they run while engine is on, so i've thought back and figured that the car is running hot because the fans are not coming on, which sorta explains the sitting and idleing and overheating, but doesnt explain the running hot while being ran hard because of constant cold air flow, so thinking to myself i believe it runs hot while doing this because its just like running SUPER lean, so my question is, whats the FIRST approach?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,611 Posts
reason why nobody has posted and tried to help is.. you have one long sentence. nobody is going to sit and try to understand what your tryin to say. i got a headache just tryin to understand what u wrote. post up all the codes your gettin and we can try to help you..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
01 is300 with unsolved problems (revised)

i recently posted the thread about my friend buying an 01 is300 with 114k miles and it having 7 cel codes. well it turns out my bright idea to clean the MAF cleared 6 of these codes, i cleaned the MAF and reset the ecu, drove for about 30 mins and boy did cleaning the MAF do a complete turn around on the cars performance, it seems liek it has the power its suppose to plus some.....anyway the CEL light came back on and theres only 1 code now, and that is P0141 for o2 senser bank 1 sensor 2. so i guess next step is replace this and were good to go, but there are 2 other problems at hand

the fans are only coming on when key is on position and engine not running, which in turn makes the radiator start boiling if cars idles for 5 or 6 minutes not moving, but the temp gauge is reading normal temp, so i figured it could be a couple things, and need advice on which one usually goes bad and should be the first to replace

A. relays (theres 2)
B. temp sensor
C. thermostat
D. or some other sensor

the other problem is the gas gauge, it works, reads about 3/4 tank when topped off at gas light, and gets about 320 miles before gas light comes on, so i figure it works, just not exact, and how should i go about fixing this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,084 Posts
First comment is to fill the damm thing up with coolant, take rad cap off when its cold and fill it, then fill the tank to the cold level. 1/2 way up will do.
Your temp gauge may not work right because the cooling system is full of air and steam. ( and maybe Exhast gases !!!)

Then do a compression check, and look for coolant leaks and coolant in the Oil and exhaust.
If nothings wrong after this Measure the radiator Temp when hot, and see if the Fan should be on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,084 Posts
Re: codes,
Go through and fix them obvious ones first.
Post code numbers if you want help.

IE Replace O2 sensors, if the car had 100K + then they are due anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First comment is to fill the damm thing up with coolant, take rad cap off when its cold and fill it, then fill the tank to the cold level. 1/2 way up will do.
Your temp gauge may not work right because the cooling system is full of air and steam. ( and maybe Exhast gases !!!)

Then do a compression check, and look for coolant leaks and coolant in the Oil and exhaust.
If nothings wrong after this Measure the radiator Temp when hot, and see if the Fan should be on.
coolent was added after it started doing this boiling thing, how do i go about doing a compression check
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,084 Posts
coolent was added after it started doing this boiling thing, how do i go about doing a compression check
Where did you add the coolant ? just the overflow tank ?
You must fill the radiator and the tank, otherwise it takes too many hot cold cycles to suck in the coolant.

Buy or borrow a compression gauge,
remove all 6 plugs (search or look in DIY for instructions, not trivial these days)
Pull fuel pump and ign fuse
Screw in compression tester to one spark plug hole. Open throttle manually, CRANK watch gauge till it reaches a stable max reading, write down. compare to Spec.
If low, remove screw in gauge, squirt or pour about one tsp engine Oil, retest. If reading increases rings bad.
If doesn't valves or head gasket.

good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,084 Posts
so does it have all the connections?
have you any indication this car has been turbo'd ??
Son has 3 pumps on his Supra, but on the one hanger
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Did you ever solve the radiator problem cause i'm having close to the same issue , the water pump and thermostat or working cause it gets up to themp, and if I rev the engine the level from the top of the rad drops. Only thing is the fan never wants to turn on it works when the a/c is turned on cause both come on but I wondering where the temp sensor on these things(2003 is300 ) I'm gonna do a compression test anyway just to make sure I didn't warp the head when I over heated it (little paranoid ).
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top