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Power is fair for the small exhaust side, but probably depends a bit on the dyno. Overall I would be more concerned about how it still looks kind of 'peaky'. Normally would expect 0.6x A/R to hit strong early, hold for a while, and then fall off early. Instead it looks like it hits relatively late and falls off early.

At 3000rpms you have a little rise start to happen, then it drops and takes its time. For the 'meh/blah' instead of bananas level of torque you should be seeing I would still investigate BOV holding boost under pressure, if you're VVTi is working, if wastegate is opening early etc...

for example - My synchronic BOV I tested ten ways from Sunday and tried multiple inventive ways to keep more pressure on it so it. It would hold boost while being tested but in service tiniest pressure fluctuation on my reference lines would lift it. In the end I swapped to an ebay knock-off BOV in garage and instantly fixed my problem.

Ever hook up a boost gauge to the turbo itself and see how much boost it was running and compare to downstream of intercooler?
 

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I agree with the above post. You'd have really quick spool with lots of low end torque with a .63 a/r but this doesn't seem to be the case. Your peak torque should be around 4000rpm with that size exhaust housing and obviously it would suffer up top. I would also check for leaks in all of your plumbing.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So I found the boost leak. The pipe going into the throttle body was crushed by the t-clamp from being weakened where they installed the IAC feed and was leaking I presume quite badly. The IAC valve was an after thought and done after the pre-dyno inspection. So between that and the small exhaust housing it's no wonder the graph looks so odd. Thanks so much for all your help. Very much appreciated!
 

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Same Setup Here and a piddly 363whp.

Precision 6262 .68 a/r
Link ecu, 850cc inj, Aeromotive return setup
Aristo motor
CD009 Tranny

Tuner pointed at the .68 rear housing, but this is much lower than I was expecting. 91 pump around 19psi.
 

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Same Setup Here and a piddly 363whp.

Precision 6262 .68 a/r
Link ecu, 850cc inj, Aeromotive return setup
Aristo motor
CD009 Tranny

Tuner pointed at the .68 rear housing, but this is much lower than I was expecting. 91 pump around 19psi.
Humble Performance...that’s in Tulsa right?
I’ve got a .68 on my Borg s362sxe. Boost hits fast but the car runs out of steam about 6000rpm. Fun as hell around town though. Need to swap to a 3.5 diff.
 

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Humble Performance...that’s in Tulsa right?
I’ve got a .68 on my Borg s362sxe. Boost hits fast but the car runs out of steam about 6000rpm. Fun as hell around town though. Need to swap to a 3.5 diff.
Yes, Tulsa.

I've got the 3.58's and they are a total transformation. Highly recommended.

Here's a pic of my setup.
 

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Update

Since my earlier post with 363whp, I have gone to E85, and an .81 hot side housing. The results were 403whp. After that I brainstormed and came to the conclusion that the intercooler that I started this build with was entirely too small, 575cfm. I have since swapped to a Mishimoto 1075cfm unit and went back for more dyno. This resulted in 447whp and the car is totally transformed. Looking at the pre and post graphs, the larger IC is good for around 60HP across the board. I'm pretty happy with how the car is performing now. Next will be stickier tires as the car struggles through third gear with traction issues. :smile2:
 

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Nice setup! What boost and timing is making 447?

I'm at ~490 with 17-18psi and 16º timing on a 60/40 blend of pump93/pumpE85

Traction in 3rd is definitely a problem, even on 275/35-18 MPSS tires...
 

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Wow, something is amiss then because my timing is a few degrees higher than yours and it was at 22psi. I'm currently at 66% Ethanol. I'm not aware of anybody with vast 2J tuning experience here in Tulsa, as this was done by Alex Pagan at Humble, and they specialize in Honda's.
 

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Wow, something is amiss then because my timing is a few degrees higher than yours and it was at 22psi. I'm currently at 66% Ethanol. I'm not aware of anybody with vast 2J tuning experience here in Tulsa, as this was done by Alex Pagan at Humble, and they specialize in Honda's.
Re-reading my post, I'm afraid I may have come off as criticizing your setup, or suggesting mine was better than yours. Not my intent!

The diff between ~450 and ~490 is pretty meaningless considering different dynos on different days, etc. All that matters is it runs well and makes you go tire shopping because you can't hook 3rd gear!
 

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Re-reading my post, I'm afraid I may have come off as criticizing your setup, or suggesting mine was better than yours. Not my intent!

The diff between ~450 and ~490 is pretty meaningless considering different dynos on different days, etc. All that matters is it runs well and makes you go tire shopping because you can't hook 3rd gear!
Oh by no means an issue, I'm thrilled with the setup, I'm just under the impression that there would be a little more to be had if it were in the hands of a 2JZ guru. I'm 50 years old and have done multiple turbo setups in the past, just always wanted to swap a GTE into something. This build has been very satisfying and its pretty damn fun to drive too. :wink:
 

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Oh by no means an issue, I'm thrilled with the setup, I'm just under the impression that there would be a little more to be had if it were in the hands of a 2JZ guru. I'm 50 years old and have done multiple turbo setups in the past, just always wanted to swap a GTE into something. This build has been very satisfying and its pretty damn fun to drive too. :wink:
you're using a Link ecu? Is it the plug/play arrangement from Xcessive? Would love to hear your thoughts on it (even if not the PnP).
 

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Yes, the Link is a nice setup. The only initial issue I ran across was a dirty crank sensor reading. Apparently the Aristo motor shares a spliced negative input for the crank and cam sensors that comes together about 1 foot from the ecu on the factory harness. I learned that this was an issue when people were wiring up modded AEM 6050 boxes so I ended up pulling the splice apart and extending the "other" lead all the way to the ecu. Despite just being a common ground input, wiring into a different spot fixed that issue for good. I was told this was not a known issue for the Link Altezza unit, but mine definately didn't like sharing it. All smooth sailing since then and really easy to navigate the software/ menu, etc. Other than that, it works pretty much like what you would expect from various manufacturers. I setup my own dual map/ flex fuel "tune" and there was nothing to it once you have a decent starting point. Highly recommend it.
 

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I have a Link G4+ TALT (Altezza plug in) running my 2J. Without the xcessive pnp kit it a little bit of a pain but can be done. I repinned my engine and body loom to the Altezza ecu plugs. I'd recommend the xcessive kit if you are in the states, just makes things easy.

I recently put down 495rwhp @24psi on E85 with a Garrett GTX3582r Gen 2 and 1.06 rear. This is Aussie HP on a hub dyno. Likely a bit more for US HP lol.

1000cc injectors, Walbro 460 (maxed).
JZX110 A343e with stage 3 valve body and ATFspeed billet accumulatiors.

No traction control or VSC makes you respect the throttle.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
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