Swapping in a used engine does not eliminate the need for a costly transmission though....unless you are ditching racer boi and keeping the auto in which case sure, given you have the time, space and tools (because labor is expensive).Feet,
Honestly man, considering how much just a trans swap alone would cost you I would strongly consider just doing a GTE swap. If I could go back and do it all over again, thats the route I would have gone. An Aristo engine, trans, harness and ECU can be had for about $2900 with shipping. However, there is a bit of other modification that will need to be done to make it work.
Many options out there.
What did you end up doing to resolve your fuel trim issues? You mentioned something about a "black box" ... did that solve it? If so, could you explain a little bit more?Just wanted to check in. My car is still running and I have been using it as my daily for a couple months. Average mpg is about 22mpg. Nothing else to report. Drives like stock unless you go heavy on the gas pedal.
So you never ran into the issue with fuel trims that Driftin8ez had?Hey guys,
Just an update from my side. So as I mentioned earlier in this thread, I sold my GS300, however the new owner has been having a lot of fun with it, as you know it has the GTE pistons and everything else is as I left it. It doesn't have the fuel return mod anymore, but it does still have the Quantum 340 LPH fuel pump. The Chinafold did crack at the collector but that's been reinforced and supported using a brace to the engine block. It's still currently on 7 PSI on the stock injectors and returnless fuel system with the stock ECU, gets driven hard often and it literally has zero issues now that it has slightly lower compression. He's absolutely enjoying it and he does have plans to fit the 1000cc injectors he bought as well as some form of proper fuel management. Also the transmission is still happy too.
*Oh also, at some point on a cruise home, the boost reference to the wastegate popped off and he probably hit some insane amount of boost, the motor is still fine and healthy surprisingly, how awesome is that!
My next question is about the ecu... Has anyone found out if your factory tuning is different than usdm ecu's? Maybe due to different emissions standards. If it is different, I'm wondering if a guy (me, lol) could buy an ecu for an IS300 from you or from a vendor over there and have it shipped here? Mostly curious cuz the guys that chimed in here from the states had some issues with fuel trims, when you didn't. I appreciate any thoughts anyone has on this.Stock: 199Hp/195ftlb
1st Dyno : 245Hp/304ftlb - 4.2 PSI Spike, 1.4 PSI at 6500RPM
2nd Dyno : 264Hp/284ftlb - 7 PSI Spike, 4.2 PSI at 6500RPM
3rd Dyno : 288Hp/267ftlb - 5.6 PSI
Hey, I know this reply comes at a weird time but I believe I should still provide you with an answer. I do believe that because I was having issues I never really hit peak torque properly, with those spikes I was hitting higher boost levels really quickly but then it would drop off in no time. Also timing at the spike point is really low, so power numbers tend to be weird, but as RPM goes up, timing does too which allows peak torque to still occur even when boost is lower than it should be if you get what I'm saying. Eg. 3 degrees at the 7 psi spike which never fully recovers and maybe hits 15 degrees peak overall vs maybe 6 degrees at 5 psi hitting 19-20 degrees at the limiter.I know this thread is old, but I'm new here with in the forum and new to my 2001IS300. I wanna start by saying congrats on the successful forced induction on stock ecu! I've always been a bit skeptical when everyone wants to slam a guy for trying it and just completely shuts their mind off to the idea. I have a couple questions, main one concerning the Dyno results I quoted below... I am curious as to why you actually lost torque as your boost pressures went up my experience with boosting is that you gain torque pretty much linear with hp, if not more so. So my question is this, is there something with your setup that could be affecting that? Maybe your stock exhaust size, or your injector pulse width (if you can even control that)? The inline 6 is a torque monster by design, so it surprised me to see it fall off so drastically. One reason for my question is because this is the route I'm gonna go. I'm not looking for a powerhouse, mostly just enough to make it quick and funner to drive. So if the reason for the drop is just some quirky nature of this engine, I may actually prefer the lower boost level as having the first Dyno run with 4.2 psi would feel much quicker when daily driving it than the 3rd Dyno run where you're down by almost 40lb/ft. Torque is where it's at, if you ask me. Horsepower is highly overrated when it's a daily driver and most of your "racing" is just messing around light to light. ??
My next question is about the ecu... Has anyone found out if your factory tuning is different than usdm ecu's? Maybe due to different emissions standards. If it is different, I'm wondering if a guy (me, lol) could buy an ecu for an IS300 from you or from a vendor over there and have it shipped here? Mostly curious cuz the guys that chimed in here from the states had some issues with fuel trims, when you didn't. I appreciate any thoughts anyone has on this.