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Just wanted to check in. My car is still running and I have been using it as my daily for a couple months. Average mpg is about 22mpg. Nothing else to report. Drives like stock unless you go heavy on the gas pedal.
 

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Feet,

Honestly man, considering how much just a trans swap alone would cost you I would strongly consider just doing a GTE swap. If I could go back and do it all over again, thats the route I would have gone. An Aristo engine, trans, harness and ECU can be had for about $2900 with shipping. However, there is a bit of other modification that will need to be done to make it work.

Many options out there.
Swapping in a used engine does not eliminate the need for a costly transmission though....unless you are ditching racer boi and keeping the auto in which case sure, given you have the time, space and tools (because labor is expensive).
 

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Costly transmission? For 300-350 whp? Just use the trans that comes with the Aristo. Or the A650e for auto guys. $2900 engine, trans, harness, and ECU. That package is all over EBay. He may have to shim the accumulators. Or better yet also have the valve body reworked and go standalone to raise the rev limiter.

Just to be clear by “GTE swap” I do mean the engine, trans, harness, and JDM ECU. “GTE swap” can be a very subjective term.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/JDM-98-01-Toyota-2JZ-GTE-VVTI-Engine-Twin-Turbo-3-0L-Inline-6-Motor-Aristo-Supra/283082281476?hash=item41e904d204:g:hgsAAOSwrFxbYiqj
 

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Did not see the hp #'s.

Still....at 300 I would be babying that W55. I've SEEN them break under i/h/e power.

So my bad for not reading too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Hey guys,

Just an update from my side. So as I mentioned earlier in this thread, I sold my GS300, however the new owner has been having a lot of fun with it, as you know it has the GTE pistons and everything else is as I left it. It doesn't have the fuel return mod anymore, but it does still have the Quantum 340 LPH fuel pump. The Chinafold did crack at the collector but that's been reinforced and supported using a brace to the engine block. It's still currently on 7 PSI on the stock injectors and returnless fuel system with the stock ECU, gets driven hard often and it literally has zero issues now that it has slightly lower compression. He's absolutely enjoying it and he does have plans to fit the 1000cc injectors he bought as well as some form of proper fuel management. Also the transmission is still happy too.

*Oh also, at some point on a cruise home, the boost reference to the wastegate popped off and he probably hit some insane amount of boost, the motor is still fine and healthy surprisingly, how awesome is that!
 

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Discussion Starter #147 (Edited)
I'm back!

Just came in to give a short update. About 3 weeks ago the current owner's wife blew the 2JZ-GE up by running it without oil for a bit. Unfortunately nobody has 2JZ-GE's in stock so we opted for a 1JZ-GTE instead. Awesomely enough I have some decent information to give to those who would be keen on fitting one of these to the GS300 or IS300.

The GS is a '98-01 and the 1JZ-GTE came out of a 98 Soarer half-cut

We used the 2JZ-GE harness without the plastic covers, we just shoved it into where the 1JZ loom usually runs.
AC, Alternator, Coils all plug in as usual.
Oil level sender needs to be swapped over from the 2J to the 1J.
*Power Steering* Pump from the 2J needs to be swapped to the 1J however the reservoir needs to be removed and the 1J outlet needs to be bolted on, this makes the power steering lines fit easily.
Injector plugs are the same, the 1J uses 370cc injectors with an FPR on the end. We blocked off the return line but will probably go return in future again.
The fuel line from the chassis to the 1J is slightly too short, just use a brass fitting to extend it or remove the first bracket and stretch the line a bit.
The ECTS-i throttle body from the 1J works perfectly with the 2JZ-GE ECU, just requires some harness rerouting but that's about it, all the plugs are the same and the ECU does idle control perfectly fine. Cruise control works too.

Bottom line is, a 98 1JZ-GTE will fit into a 98-01 GS300/IS300 with little to no modification at all. Just some wiring rerouting and minor things here and there.

The GS300 is now running a BlueArc EMS ( https://bluearc-ecu.co.za/ - $650 and local to us) with great success as a parallel ECU, it made 365hp at 7 PSI and ran a 13.8 on the 1/4 mile. Sucks that it exploded but that's just how things go sometimes.
 

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Just wanted to check in. My car is still running and I have been using it as my daily for a couple months. Average mpg is about 22mpg. Nothing else to report. Drives like stock unless you go heavy on the gas pedal.
What did you end up doing to resolve your fuel trim issues? You mentioned something about a "black box" ... did that solve it? If so, could you explain a little bit more?
 

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Hey guys,

Just an update from my side. So as I mentioned earlier in this thread, I sold my GS300, however the new owner has been having a lot of fun with it, as you know it has the GTE pistons and everything else is as I left it. It doesn't have the fuel return mod anymore, but it does still have the Quantum 340 LPH fuel pump. The Chinafold did crack at the collector but that's been reinforced and supported using a brace to the engine block. It's still currently on 7 PSI on the stock injectors and returnless fuel system with the stock ECU, gets driven hard often and it literally has zero issues now that it has slightly lower compression. He's absolutely enjoying it and he does have plans to fit the 1000cc injectors he bought as well as some form of proper fuel management. Also the transmission is still happy too.

*Oh also, at some point on a cruise home, the boost reference to the wastegate popped off and he probably hit some insane amount of boost, the motor is still fine and healthy surprisingly, how awesome is that!
So you never ran into the issue with fuel trims that Driftin8ez had?
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Woah, my apologies for not replying, I got zero notifications that anyone responded :( I had zero fuel trim issues with my build. It could be due to the SADM ECU that I had. It ran at stoich when idling and cruising and AFR enriched under part and full throttle loads. It was always fine even with the fuel return mod.
 

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I know this thread is old, but I'm new here with in the forum and new to my 2001IS300. I wanna start by saying congrats on the successful forced induction on stock ecu! I've always been a bit skeptical when everyone wants to slam a guy for trying it and just completely shuts their mind off to the idea. I have a couple questions, main one concerning the Dyno results I quoted below... I am curious as to why you actually lost torque as your boost pressures went up my experience with boosting is that you gain torque pretty much linear with hp, if not more so. So my question is this, is there something with your setup that could be affecting that? Maybe your stock exhaust size, or your injector pulse width (if you can even control that)? The inline 6 is a torque monster by design, so it surprised me to see it fall off so drastically. One reason for my question is because this is the route I'm gonna go. I'm not looking for a powerhouse, mostly just enough to make it quick and funner to drive. So if the reason for the drop is just some quirky nature of this engine, I may actually prefer the lower boost level as having the first Dyno run with 4.2 psi would feel much quicker when daily driving it than the 3rd Dyno run where you're down by almost 40lb/ft. Torque is where it's at, if you ask me. Horsepower is highly overrated when it's a daily driver and most of your "racing" is just messing around light to light. ??

Stock: 199Hp/195ftlb
1st Dyno : 245Hp/304ftlb - 4.2 PSI Spike, 1.4 PSI at 6500RPM
2nd Dyno : 264Hp/284ftlb - 7 PSI Spike, 4.2 PSI at 6500RPM
3rd Dyno : 288Hp/267ftlb - 5.6 PSI
My next question is about the ecu... Has anyone found out if your factory tuning is different than usdm ecu's? Maybe due to different emissions standards. If it is different, I'm wondering if a guy (me, lol) could buy an ecu for an IS300 from you or from a vendor over there and have it shipped here? Mostly curious cuz the guys that chimed in here from the states had some issues with fuel trims, when you didn't. I appreciate any thoughts anyone has on this.
 

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Tremendous thread, and very much food for thought. I have a bone stock IS300 5AT that I'd like to mildly build and the decision process is basically this:

1. Perform all needed maintenance and then do budget build on 2JZ-GE
2. Abandon stock 2JZ-GE and start with a 'fresher' 1JZ-GTE

As I'm paying for labor either way, both paths will cost me money, but I don't expect to take this car much past 300 whp for quite some time. Emissions is not a concern for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
I know this thread is old, but I'm new here with in the forum and new to my 2001IS300. I wanna start by saying congrats on the successful forced induction on stock ecu! I've always been a bit skeptical when everyone wants to slam a guy for trying it and just completely shuts their mind off to the idea. I have a couple questions, main one concerning the Dyno results I quoted below... I am curious as to why you actually lost torque as your boost pressures went up my experience with boosting is that you gain torque pretty much linear with hp, if not more so. So my question is this, is there something with your setup that could be affecting that? Maybe your stock exhaust size, or your injector pulse width (if you can even control that)? The inline 6 is a torque monster by design, so it surprised me to see it fall off so drastically. One reason for my question is because this is the route I'm gonna go. I'm not looking for a powerhouse, mostly just enough to make it quick and funner to drive. So if the reason for the drop is just some quirky nature of this engine, I may actually prefer the lower boost level as having the first Dyno run with 4.2 psi would feel much quicker when daily driving it than the 3rd Dyno run where you're down by almost 40lb/ft. Torque is where it's at, if you ask me. Horsepower is highly overrated when it's a daily driver and most of your "racing" is just messing around light to light. ??



My next question is about the ecu... Has anyone found out if your factory tuning is different than usdm ecu's? Maybe due to different emissions standards. If it is different, I'm wondering if a guy (me, lol) could buy an ecu for an IS300 from you or from a vendor over there and have it shipped here? Mostly curious cuz the guys that chimed in here from the states had some issues with fuel trims, when you didn't. I appreciate any thoughts anyone has on this.
Hey, I know this reply comes at a weird time but I believe I should still provide you with an answer. I do believe that because I was having issues I never really hit peak torque properly, with those spikes I was hitting higher boost levels really quickly but then it would drop off in no time. Also timing at the spike point is really low, so power numbers tend to be weird, but as RPM goes up, timing does too which allows peak torque to still occur even when boost is lower than it should be if you get what I'm saying. Eg. 3 degrees at the 7 psi spike which never fully recovers and maybe hits 15 degrees peak overall vs maybe 6 degrees at 5 psi hitting 19-20 degrees at the limiter.

The stock ECU doesn't know what boost is so when it hits MAF limit (Which is pretty much anywhere over 4 PSI) then it just drops timing considerably and goes into full open loop, dumping as much fuel as it can, which happens to be just enough.

Another thing is, at the 5.6 PSI run, I had Water/Meth injection as well, so IAT's were low, and octane was enough to support NA timing curves.
 

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Great to see a more recent post by @Pynoxim. I've opted to do the bolt on kit with my own IS300 and so will be doing my best to carry on the fine tradition started here. To follow along on my slow journey, it will be detailed here: Best 'progress' approach to build-up a 2001...

I hope to also show people that a true 'bolt-on' turbo can be done with the right parts and expectations in mind, and am encouraged by pioneers that did it first, like on this thread.
 

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have been running my turbo is300 on the stock ecu with na supra 330cc injectors and the 7.2psi wastegate springs (pretty much runs at 8psi at wot) for about a year now with no issues. 14.7 afr or so at idle and cruising, and richens up to 11/12 afrs during boost. threw the 8.7psi springs in today so we shall see how that runs tomorrow.
 
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