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any specific brand names for some of the parts or as long as they are from a supra they are ok? does the year matter? sorry noob questions.
 

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I'm researching my swap, and one thing that I haven't found consistent information is on the OBD2 port.

in order to keep my car street legal I need to have a working OBD2 port. my first though was Supra 96+ harness and ECU, has this been done before ?

if there is no way to swap a 2jzgte and keeping the OBD2 port working, I'll have to be happy with a na-t with some piggyback. but rather have an OEM ecu control my engine.
 

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Sorry to bring back a dead thread but i need expertise. Got rid of my IS250 and im picking up an 03 IS300 with a manual on saturday. I already have a 2JZ-GTE on the way so ill be starting this swap in the next couple of weeks. You guys think a piggy back or stand alone ECU? and which brand? Ive used an AEM FIC in the past but i was hoping something a little easier as far as the wiring. Also excluding the downpipe can i make IS exhaust work or does it need to all be custom? Next is there a FMIC kit made for this swap or do i make one from a supra work? Finally im reading through the swap manual and can anyone point out the exact spots i need to grind/cut on the rear turbo so it doesnt hit the harness. Thanks in advance for the help!
 

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^Ive been tryn to search that same question about the FMIC. Also wanna know. If I make my kit my self, what is a good size IC that will fit between the radiator and the crash bar.
 

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i swapped in an Aristo vvti and mine is already an 03 manual. I used my stock harness and extended the MAF wires to reach the TB side (driverside) and have my MAF as a blow through 18" from TB in I/C pipe by lower frame rail. I have full access of OBDII port and have passed TN emissions. Only wiring mod i did was clone the B2S2 and B2S1 to read with B1S2 and B1S1. I also used a spark plug non fouler on the B1S2 (under car) to space out the 2nd O2 that way it sees less exhaust flow thus thinking there is still a converter on it. Wideband reads 10.8 or lower under a load, the ECU WILL compensate up to 13 lbs safely, anything more and the ecu can't add enough and starts to run closer to 12.1. No CEL's unless i turn the boost up and run it to death. I have driven my IS on several trips and the stock twins have the TTC mod and are at 13-15 lbs. has been reliable and get 20-24 mpg for the past 2 years. I just recently went to the single set up, Apexi Neo, and boost controller. Now that its at 15lbs daily, with as much as 18% correction it still runs at 10.8 - 11.4 WOT under a load. Dyno numbers were very impressive for stock motor with bolt on's.
 

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I need to add that most of this was with the stock tranny (w58) with lightened flywheel and 6 puck. No issues at all. When the single was added i went ahead and installed an R154 , new flywheel/clutch and had my front driveshaft modified to the Toyota truck front yolk at stock length. Truck yolks are the same spline count for the R154.
 

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I need to add that most of this was with the stock tranny (w58) with lightened flywheel and 6 puck. No issues at all. When the single was added i went ahead and installed an R154 , new flywheel/clutch and had my front driveshaft modified to the Toyota truck front yolk at stock length. Truck yolks are the same spline count for the R154.
What mods where done to the fuel system? return line on what looks like a factory regulator?

clean looking engine bay, you should make a build thread.
 
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