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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently did the timing belt on the Tezza, i measured a few things first and made up my own crank pulley lockup tool at work from an old piece of bar we had lying around which i thought i would share. You will need access to a lathe and mill/drill machine obviously, the OD is purely about the large bar diameter so you could use something smaller with the same result. You will also need a piece of flat/angle bar to bolt to it, i would suggest using something about 10-12mm or more thick as i was using a couple of offcuts and ended up breaking the 4mm angle i tried and bending the 6mm flat bar i used after but got the job done ?. I guess if you had access to a wire EDM you could cut a 1/2" square hole for a power bar, i didnt have the time or inclination. You will need 2 high tensile bolts M8 x 50 and a couple of flat washers to bolt it to the pulley, and i used 2 high tensile M8 x 20 bolts to bolt the bracket to it, though i guess the latter could be an imperial thread/bolt if you wanted (lets go metric like the rest of the world ?). I also had to chase the M8 threads in the pulley as they were full of crap, i have the taps so was quick and easy to get it done.

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I made the main bolt holes slots as i wasnt 100% sure of the pitch, i had measured across 2 M8 bolts and used the diagram i found online below of the pulley but the dims didnt seem quite right (usually i would expect to see a rounded dimension :sneaky:). Also 65.2 shown below was different to what i measured (i think i measured 65.8mm?), so adding a small slot was easy to make sure it worked. Anyway, below render is someone elses work so all credit to them.

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Worked a charm, was funny torquing back up 320Nm though as the whole car was lifting up against the bar.
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Also solved the mystery of the strange unused breather hose pipes everyone asks about on these engines. It goes nowhere, just one side to the other lol :p
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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't know Altezza's came with a 2JZGE? Is it a wagon?
Yep, the Altezza Gita (JCE10 = sportcross in the US) came in a 1GFE and 2JZ variant. This one is a 2J ;)

I would have preferred a sedan but there werent many IS300 for sale over here at the time, and my kids were getting big and heavy teens at that point so didnt want to go for anything smaller. Now theyve mostly flown the coup so its more a commuter/toy :D
 

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Yep, the Altezza Gita (JCE10 = sportcross in the US) came in a 1GFE and 2JZ variant. This one is a 2J ;)

I would have preferred a sedan but there werent many IS300 for sale over here at the time, and my kids were getting big and heavy teens at that point so didnt want to go for anything smaller. Now theyve mostly flown the coup so its more a commuter/toy :D
Ok, that's why. The wagon's (or Gita's rather) I knew had the 2jz. I like the feel of the 2jzge torque compared to the Beams 3sge but the handling feels way better without a boat anchor out front. End threadjack/
 

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That's not a bad little solution. When I did the job years ago, I was one of those idiots that did the starter bump method. Breaker bar threw itself across the garage nearly putting a hole in the wall lol. But hey, it worked nicely. Goes to show just how much torque those little motors have, at least 250ft-lbs

I have a little steel L beam lying around in my garage, may have to get one together. However, I generally don't torque it all the way back to factory spec since my torque wrench only goes to about 155ft-lbs :cautious:. That and a little anti-seize goes a long way.

Also solved the mystery of the strange unused breather hose pipes everyone asks about on these engines. It goes nowhere, just one side to the other lol
I've heard that hose is for the GTE setups or if you're boosted. I think it was cheaper for Toyota to manufacture the same part and just not use that portion than to make a piece without the breather hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have a little steel L beam lying around in my garage, may have to get one together. However, I generally don't torque it all the way back to factory spec since my torque wrench only goes to about 155ft-lbs :cautious:. That and a little anti-seize goes a long way.
I had the same issue, my personal one at home maxes about the same but has been just right for the Honda's and other pulleys i have done and drive shafts. Ended up borrowing one we had at work which maxes out right on 330Nm. I have done on another car driveshaft the max my wrench would do and then a small nudge on a power bar with extension to move the screw a bit further to what "felt" about right. It never came loose so must have been ok lol :LOL:

You do have to watch putting oil or grease onto threads, it changes the co-efficient of friction between the thread faces so different torque values should be applied. Also it can make them easier to work loose depending on the application (its pretty extreme but grease can act like a hydraulic then disperse after and lessen the load, copper can crush and lessen the load, friction will be less so easier to undo etc.), so best to follow the manufacturers recommendations. I would say though those would really only be in extreme situations, like racing setups etc..
 

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You do have to watch putting oil or grease onto threads, it changes the co-efficient of friction between the thread faces so different torque values should be applied. Also it can make them easier to work loose depending on the application (its pretty extreme but grease can act like a hydraulic then disperse after and lessen the load, copper can crush and lessen the load, friction will be less so easier to undo etc.), so best to follow the manufacturers recommendations. I would say though those would really only be in extreme situations, like racing setups etc..
I'm well aware of this fact, however considering the shear amount of torque being thrown at this bolt, I can only imagine it being beneficial. I haven't had it come off yet, and it's always a bitch to get it off! Plus I always give a good push past the torque wrench's limit to get closer to the 240-ft-lbs needed :LOL:
 

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I just use a chain wrench on the pulley face with a cut piece of old belt to protect to pulley. Works great.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just use a chain wrench on the pulley face with a cut piece of old belt to protect to pulley. Works great.
Like the starter method there is a risk of messing things up. It might work fine, or you might damage the pulley and have to replace it. with the chain wrench you are putting a lot more than 330Nm against the rubber holding the balancer together just to crack the bolt, something it was never designed to do. But each to their own, i just didnt want to risk it and had the means to make something up ;)
 
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