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2002 Lexus 300 na-t

23K views 303 replies 16 participants last post by  AlwaysBroken 
#1 · (Edited)
Instagram : northern_induction 🔥 2002 Lexus is300. Northern Michigan, I plan to do a 15 - 20psi na-t build. I’m looking for anyone’s help or opinions with this build as I’m learning and researching all myself. Here is my car: (Last pic shows the current rims, just peeled paint off that the last owner put on)
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#2 · (Edited)
Updated as of 5/24/2022


Block:
Manley H-beam rods with arp 2000 bolts - $715
Wiseco AP Forged Pistons 86.25 mm - $1,042
Acl Race Rod Bearings STD - $130
Acl Race Main Bearings STD - $165
Clevite Thrust Washers - $30
Machine shop work - $400



Head:
Cleaning and re surfaced $120
BC valve springs $140

Electronics:
AEM X-Series 30-0300 AFR gauge - $200
Haltach elite 2500 and harness from figs -$2500


Parts:
Rev 9 turbo T4 manifold $200
Rev 9 3” inner-cooler $200
Rev 9 3” Down pipe and 4 1/2” intake $155
Cx-racing inner-cooler piping $550
Tial waste-gate $180
Turbo smart MBC - $90
Oil feed and return lines $80
3/4” T4 turbo spacer $45
Gauge pod $55
HKS blow off valve $45
Titanium heat wrap $40
Oil filter sandwich $35
Cam gear cover $90
Adjustable cam gear and belt $120
Accessory belt $30
Radiator tubes $30
Electric cut out $90
New tires and alignment $500
Oil filter housing to block o-ring $12
Oil pump o-rings - $10
2JZ-GE Complete OEM Water Pump - $120
Performance aluminum radiator - $150
Transmission cooler - $40
Valve cover gaskets - $25
NGK BKR7E Spark Plugs (6) - $20
Oem cam seals - $15.99
Oem crankshaft seal - $20
(FIPG) 103 Liquid Oil Pan gasket 0029500103 - $20
Knock sensors - $130
Vvti oil valve solenoid cam housing - $130
VVT-I O-Ring and washer seal - $16
Toyota OEM rear main seal - $36
Toyota OEM crankshaft position sensor - $180
Ngk bkr7e 4644 copper spark plugs - $20
6an to 3/8 barb - $10
High temp silicone tubing for mbc $10



Fuel return set up for na-t:
FMS 550cc injectors
Aeromotive stealth 340lph pump (part number 11542) $120
Aeromotive A1000 FPR $130
Aeromotive AN-06 fittings (2) (part number 15606) $28
6AN To 6AN Male Flare Straight Fuel Cell Bulkhead Fittings (1) $12
Jb weld to seal pump hanger mod
6an braided nylon hose 3/8” 15ft $35
1/8NPT tap for oem fuel rail $7
1/8NPT to 3/8" barb 90 degree fitting $14
11/32” drill bit for fuel rail hole $5
6an orb push lock fittings for FPR (2) $18
6AN Female to 5/16 Barb 90 Degree Elbow $20
Gates 27097 submersible fuel hose $25



Abs relocation :
Summit part URR-BSCJ312 - 5 pieces of 12" brake line $50
Summit part EDD-274000 - brake union need 5 of these $30



Battery relocation:
Care battery wire - $30
Battery box - $10


Oil drain:
3/8 NPT tap
37/64” drill bit for 3/8 tap -$10
3/8 NPT to 10AN straight fitting -$8
Dorman 625-212 -$80
Vibrant Performance 2893 oil drain flange for turbo -$27

Oil feed:
7/16-24” to 4an inverted flare -$10
1/8" BSPT Oil Pressure Sensor Tee to NPT -$12
1/8 to 4an for OPS -$20
 

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#3 ·
Good start man. You’re doing the best thing by getting a plan, nailing it down, and stick to your list. You won’t buy things twice because you changed your mind or whatever.

I notice you’re unsure of the fuel pump hanger. If you have the budget, get an Aristo hanger off eBay and buy a couple Radium fittings. It’ll save you from dicking around with the stock hanger and drilling it for a return. You can run AN feed and return and be future proof for fueling upgrades.
 
#5 ·
I agree with the aristo hangar. I however bought a spare is300 hangar assembly from someone parting out a is300 on Craigslist. It was $40 for the entire thing with a working pump. Of course I have no use for the pump but when I boost my car, I have duplicates of everything so that I can revert things back to stock.
 
#6 ·
bought a spare is300 hangar assembly from someone parting out a is300 on Craigslist. It was $40
That’s a good price and honestly there’s nothing wrong with drilling the stocker for a return fitting. I had to use some fuel safe epoxy on the threads to get the fuel smell under control but it worked great til I went billet hanger.
 
#10 ·
Apologies for being an elitist/snob, and perhaps being out-of-touch...but:

Based on what you've said and the parts list you've included, I get the strong impression you are working on a really, really tight budget. Projects like this always go over budget - and usually by a LOT. If you are concerned about a couple hundred herr and a couple hundred there, I caution you against proceeding with a build like this.

Also, I know that $200 for a chinese turbo off ebay seems way better than $2000 for a fancy one - but there is usually a (good) reason that inexpensive parts are so inexpensive... I've seen (and had) some successes with inexpensive chinesium parts - but I've seen (and had) a lot more successes with higher quality stuff.
I will not be using the eBay turbo , I got it awile ago before hand and I was going to just use it as a mock up for now, everything should work for how I want it and I will be able to slowly get top notch stuff.
 
#9 ·
Seems like a good plan. I definitely recommend a nicer turbo that may fit and work better, but budget seems to be a concern. I didn't really keep track of all the little things I needed and things that I bought that didn't work out.
 
#14 ·
It really just depends on what it is. Typically it's the ball bearing chinese stuff that is junk. The garrett journal bearing knockoffs are decent as long as they are properly lubricated and installed with an air filter.
 
#15 ·
I’ve run the Nagasaki noise makers in the past. Haven’t had a single problem with any of them. I beat the hell out of one for a few years on my Integra. Made 350whp for a solid 60k miles. Took it off and sold the kit. It’s not an “ideal” turbo, but shit for $200 or whatever it’s not a dealbreaker if it breaks. Idk if you guys watch boostedboiz on YT. He ONLY ran EBay turbos for $150 and made 700whp on his hatch for 2 years. Then he made 1000 on his twin eBay turbocharged MR2.

If you can afford a nice turbo, do it! If you can’t well 🤷🏽‍♂️ Run what you got.
 
#18 ·
I’ve decided to do some engine work I’m looking to get some advise but I plan on getting rods, pistons , gte headgasket , bc springs and retainers with arp head studs. I believe this will make my engine handle 10-15 pounds kore safely I’m looking for opinions and advise on anything while I have the engine out!
 
#25 ·
yeah, get a good trans
400 is doable on a stock GE. Most will tell you not to. If you want to be safe as you said, BARE minimum would be a GTE head gasket and ARP studs.

Then some would make the argument, well if you already went that far you might as well just do rods and pistons. You can see how the rabbit hole can get deeper and deeper.
400 is doable but the odds of that lasting long are slim to none. the ge is pretty reliable around the 300 mark if left unopened. pass that I noticed it has issues. and damn I feel like a cheap ass. I bought $200 gte pistons/rods and head gasket and maybe $300 to the machine shop for their labor. all in with gaskets I'm under a grand in my engine "build"
 
#23 ·
400 is doable on a stock GE. Most will tell you not to. If you want to be safe as you said, BARE minimum would be a GTE head gasket and ARP studs.

Then some would make the argument, well if you already went that far you might as well just do rods and pistons. You can see how the rabbit hole can get deeper and deeper.
 
#29 ·
I welded the fpr instead of plugging it with Jb-weld turned out great , got the pump installed just have to wire it up. Using the Adhesive shown below to be safe with e-85. Just waiting on the submergible hose. Got the transmission removed this weekend, I would really appreciate if anyone has info on if it’s worth to get the our stock A650e autos built or not. Been also thinking about putting in a turbo 400 with a trans brake really just trying to figure out what one is the better option as getting the stock auto built should be plug and play. Still doing research! Got the engine stand out together, just need to borrow a cherry picker and I can start disassembly.

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#31 · (Edited)
Got the engine pulled, hardest part was the harness you definitely want to remove the intake manifold. Brought two 10 x 1.25 bolts that were used to hook the chain up to when pulling. Broke a few clips but im going to need to figure out what im doing with the harness as it is not in the greatest condition. Going to be cleaning everything and getting everything painted by professionals, I will be documenting my rebuild. I’m hoping that my cylinder walls are in good condition but if not then I will be striping the block and sending it to a machine shop.
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#36 ·
T51R mod definitely whines. Seems weird to me to spend $400 on a $600 turbo to make it noisier, but it's your money...

Any reason you chose injectors with the ''denso cushion'' gaskets that face-seal against the manifold rather than using the radium injector seats and injectors with a traditional oring?
 
#38 ·
I follow a youtuber called ''two jay'' thats got the sweetest IS300 I've seen. He bought injector dynamics injectors with the denso cushion gasket and had a hard time getting them to not leak air when he pressure tested his manifold...

... which is intuitive with the way that design is meant to create a seal. They rely on the fuel rail bolts forcing the injectors against their bungs sufficiently to seal. Versus a simple oring inside a bore as with most injector arrangements.
 
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