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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Welcome to my build thread, I own 2002 is300 that’s a automatic. I plan to do a mild 10-15lbs boost na-t build, I’m keeping the automatic because the swap is out of my budget for now and the auto will hold up if with it upgraded. I will post what I have for my build list so far. I’m looking for anyone’s help or opinions with this build. Here is my car: (Last pic shows the current rims, just peeled paint off that the last owner put on)
Wheel Car Sky Tire Cloud


Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Vehicle registration plate Vehicle

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Plant

Tire Car Wheel Vehicle Grille
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Updated as of 1/10/22

Block: ( Will slowly add what I buy)
2jz GTE OEM head gasket - $140
ARP head studs - $170

Electronics:
Aem X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Kit - $180
Aem X-Series Boost Pressure Gauge -$186
Decided to go with the Aem Fic 6 got one used for $225 and will be getting the bloomslang harness to be plug and play with the Fic 6.

VSR "62/62" Turbo
Rev 9 turbo T4 manifold - $200
Rev 9 3” inner-cooler - $200
Rev 9 3” Down pipe and 4 1/2” intake - $155
Cx-racing inner-cooler piping kit - $550
Tial waste-gate - $180 (going to get a turbo smart wastegate if i have troubles)
3/4” T4 turbo spacer - $45 (not sure if I will need this as I got rid of that ebay turbo and will be getting a better turbo soon)
Gauge pod - $55
HKS blow off valve - $45
Titanium heat wrap - $40

Fuel System :
FMS 550cc injectors - $280
Aeromotive stealth 340lph pump (part number 11542) - $120
Aeromotive A1000 FPR - $130
Aeromotive AN-06 fittings (2) (part number 15606) - $45 for FPR
-6an plug with o-ring 9 - $15 for FPR
Aeromotive 15633 fuel pressure gauge for FPR - $54
6an orb push lock fittings for FPR (2) - $18
6an braided nylon hose 3/8” 15ft - $35 for the fuel return set up
1/8NPT tap for oem fuel rail - $10
1/8NPT to 3/8" barb 90 degree fitting - $14 for fuel rail to FPR
11/32” drill bit for fuel rail hole
6an to 6an male flare straight fuel cell bulkhead fitting - $20 for fuel pump hanger mod
6an female 90 degree push lock barb fitting - $17 for fuel pump hanger mod fitting to connect to hose
Loctite ea e-120hp epoxy - $35 to seal the fuel pump hanger bulkhead fitting mod, if you dont do this it will leak gas fumes that you will smell.

Oil feed:


Oil Drain:
3/8 NPT tap
37/64 drill bit for tap $10 (came with NPT tap)
3/8 NPT to 10AN straight fitting $8
Dorman 625-212 $80

Abs relocation :
Summit part URR-BSCJ312 - 5 pieces of 12" brake line
Summit part EDD-274000 - brake union need 5 of these
I would get a mini line cutter from a local store, makes it alot easier.

Battery relocation:
Care battery wire - $30
Battery box - $10
Moved it to the trunk was very simple just hard to fit the thick wire in the panels.


Other parts:
Rev 9 turbo T4 manifold - $200
Rev 9 3” inner-cooler - $200
Rev 9 3” Down pipe and 4 1/2” intake - $155
Cx-racing inner-cooler piping kit - $550
Tial waste-gate - $180 (going to get a turbo smart wastegate if i have troubles)
3/4” T4 turbo spacer - $45 (not sure if I will need this as I got rid of that ebay turbo and will be getting a better turbo soon)
Gauge pod - $55
HKS blow off valve - $45
Titanium heat wrap - $40
NGK BKR7E Spark Plugs (6) $20
Cam gear cover $90
Adjustable cam gear and belt $120
Accessory belt $30
Radiator tubes $30
Electric cut out $90 I will be using this to have the ablity to make the car not as loud with a button.
New tires all around and alignment
Water pump and seals $45 WIll be getting a OEM waterpump soon.
Performance aluminum radiator $150
Transmission cooler $40
Valve cover gaskets $25
HKS carbon ti muffler
 

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Good start man. You’re doing the best thing by getting a plan, nailing it down, and stick to your list. You won’t buy things twice because you changed your mind or whatever.

I notice you’re unsure of the fuel pump hanger. If you have the budget, get an Aristo hanger off eBay and buy a couple Radium fittings. It’ll save you from dicking around with the stock hanger and drilling it for a return. You can run AN feed and return and be future proof for fueling upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good start man. You’re doing the best thing by getting a plan, nailing it down, and stick to your list. You won’t buy things twice because you changed your mind or whatever.

I notice you’re unsure of the fuel pump hanger. If you have the budget, get an Aristo hanger off eBay and buy a couple Radium fittings. It’ll save you from dicking around with the stock hanger and drilling it for a return. You can run AN feed and return and be future proof for fueling upgrades.
That’s what I’ve heard, I am having a hard time finding a aristo hanger, I can’t seem to find one on eBay.
 

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I agree with the aristo hangar. I however bought a spare is300 hangar assembly from someone parting out a is300 on Craigslist. It was $40 for the entire thing with a working pump. Of course I have no use for the pump but when I boost my car, I have duplicates of everything so that I can revert things back to stock.
 

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bought a spare is300 hangar assembly from someone parting out a is300 on Craigslist. It was $40
That’s a good price and honestly there’s nothing wrong with drilling the stocker for a return fitting. I had to use some fuel safe epoxy on the threads to get the fuel smell under control but it worked great til I went billet hanger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That’s a good price and honestly there’s nothing wrong with drilling the stocker for a return fitting. I had to use some fuel safe epoxy on the threads to get the fuel smell under control but it worked great til I went billet hanger.
I will for sure use epoxy if I go with modifing the oem
 

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Apologies for being an elitist/snob, and perhaps being out-of-touch...but:

Based on what you've said and the parts list you've included, I get the strong impression you are working on a really, really tight budget. Projects like this always go over budget - and usually by a LOT. If you are concerned about a couple hundred herr and a couple hundred there, I caution you against proceeding with a build like this.

Also, I know that $200 for a chinese turbo off ebay seems way better than $2000 for a fancy one - but there is usually a (good) reason that inexpensive parts are so inexpensive... I've seen (and had) some successes with inexpensive chinesium parts - but I've seen (and had) a lot more successes with higher quality stuff.
 

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2004 Lexus IS300 NA-T
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Seems like a good plan. I definitely recommend a nicer turbo that may fit and work better, but budget seems to be a concern. I didn't really keep track of all the little things I needed and things that I bought that didn't work out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Apologies for being an elitist/snob, and perhaps being out-of-touch...but:

Based on what you've said and the parts list you've included, I get the strong impression you are working on a really, really tight budget. Projects like this always go over budget - and usually by a LOT. If you are concerned about a couple hundred herr and a couple hundred there, I caution you against proceeding with a build like this.

Also, I know that $200 for a chinese turbo off ebay seems way better than $2000 for a fancy one - but there is usually a (good) reason that inexpensive parts are so inexpensive... I've seen (and had) some successes with inexpensive chinesium parts - but I've seen (and had) a lot more successes with higher quality stuff.
I will not be using the eBay turbo , I got it awile ago before hand and I was going to just use it as a mock up for now, everything should work for how I want it and I will be able to slowly get top notch stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Seems like a good plan. I definitely recommend a nicer turbo that may fit and work better, but budget seems to be a concern. I didn't really keep track of all the little things I needed and things that I bought that didn't work out.
That’s for the information I will make some adjustments to the budget.
 

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my current Chinese turbo is currently taking a beating. got it for a last minute drift event and its held up fine since. i hate cheap but kinda happy with that Chinese turbo.
 

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Seems like a good plan. I definitely recommend a nicer turbo that may fit and work better, but budget seems to be a concern. I didn't really keep track of all the little things I needed and things that I bought that didn't work out.
I lost track of all the little things I needed to get my "turbo kit" running and driveable as a daily.
 

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my current Chinese turbo is currently taking a beating. got it for a last minute drift event and its held up fine since. i hate cheap but kinda happy with that Chinese turbo.
It really just depends on what it is. Typically it's the ball bearing chinese stuff that is junk. The garrett journal bearing knockoffs are decent as long as they are properly lubricated and installed with an air filter.
 

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I’ve run the Nagasaki noise makers in the past. Haven’t had a single problem with any of them. I beat the hell out of one for a few years on my Integra. Made 350whp for a solid 60k miles. Took it off and sold the kit. It’s not an “ideal” turbo, but shit for $200 or whatever it’s not a dealbreaker if it breaks. Idk if you guys watch boostedboiz on YT. He ONLY ran EBay turbos for $150 and made 700whp on his hatch for 2 years. Then he made 1000 on his twin eBay turbocharged MR2.

If you can afford a nice turbo, do it! If you can’t well 🤷🏽‍♂️ Run what you got.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I’ve run the Nagasaki noise makers in the past. Haven’t had a single problem with any of them. I beat the hell out of one for a few years on my Integra. Made 350whp for a solid 60k miles. Took it off and sold the kit. It’s not an “ideal” turbo, but shit for $200 or whatever it’s not a dealbreaker if it breaks. Idk if you guys watch boostedboiz on YT. He ONLY ran EBay turbos for $150 and made 700whp on his hatch for 2 years. Then he made 1000 on his twin eBay turbocharged MR2.

If you can afford a nice turbo, do it! If you can’t well 🤷🏽‍♂️ Run what you got.
I agree this turbo I have is a little too big anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I’ve decided to do some engine work I’m looking to get some advise but I plan on getting rods, pistons , gte headgasket , bc springs and retainers with arp head studs. I believe this will make my engine handle 10-15 pounds kore safely I’m looking for opinions and advise on anything while I have the engine out!
 
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