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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to a local stereo shop and they tried to charge me $800 to build a custom 10 inch box that fires thru the ski pass like vanndamage did in one of his posts. I flipped the guy off and decided to tackle the task myself.

He said I would need two 4 gauge power cables running from the battery to power a p400.1 and a p1000.1bd.
Is it ok to just have one 4 gauge wire coming from the battery and than have a distribution block with two 4 gauge wires to go to both amps? Or do I really need two seperate 4 gauge wires coming from the battery?

Also he said a sealed enclosure with .75 cubic feet of airspace for a T110D2 sub would sound better firing away from the ski pass. Is this true? Depending on the answer i'll have it fire thru the ski pass or away. Thanks guys.
 

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you don't need two 4 gauage cables. you will probably want 4 gauge to each amp, but you can use a single 0 gauge or 2 gauge from the battery to the trunk, then split via a distro block with 4 gauge to each amp.

firing the sub away into the trunk will give you more output because the trunk will act as an additional enclosure and provide coupling for the sub. firing directly into the cabin will give you lower output, but much more clean, controlled bass. it's all a preference thing. some like the additional output of rear-firing while others prefer the SQ of forward-firing.

what are those amps rated at?
 

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I don't have anything like this 600W monster RF sub, but I do have an 8in/200W RMS firing through the ski pass. It sounds great as long as the armrest is down - up, not so great.

So he says it will sound better not firing through the ski pass?

As for wiring, according to the specs for the T10001bd, you need a 0/1 gauge lead, so I think 2x 4 AWG leads is underrated for your setup. I believe 60 amps continuous over 4 gauge is a conservative limit.

Volts*Amps = watts so :
12 volts * A = 600
12A=600
A=50
You will actually need more than this to maintain RMS watts so I would advise against one 4 gauge wire. Let the more knowledgeable chime in now, but I believe you'll either blow the fuse or melt the wire :)
 

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I would do as people have stated above. Run a single 0gauge back from the battery and then split it with a distribution block. Facing the sub in the ski pass is cool for aesthetic purposes and it does sound good; but i agree it would sound better facing the rear.

PS: $800 for a box....I would have shot the bastard. Let me know if you need a box built or need help planning one out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't have anything like this 600W monster RF sub, but I do have an 8in/200W RMS firing through the ski pass. It sounds great as long as the armrest is down - up, not so great.

So he says it will sound better not firing through the ski pass?

As for wiring, according to the specs for the T10001bd, you need a 0/1 gauge lead, so I think 2x 4 AWG leads is underrated for your setup. I believe 60 amps continuous over 4 gauge is a conservative limit.

Volts*Amps = watts so :
12 volts * A = 600
12A=600
A=50
You will actually need more than this to maintain RMS watts so I would advise against one 4 gauge wire. Let the more knowledgeable chime in now, but I believe you'll either blow the fuse or melt the wire :)

Its actually a P 1000.1BD not a "T"

The spec sheet rated it at 1200W continous. I plan on running the sub, which is a T110D2 at like 800 max. Shouldn't 4 gauge be fine for that? I'm going to have a cap inline also.

Also I would like clean sound. I don't like ridiculous reverb that vibrates all the not and bolts loose and pisses everybody off on the road. I hear this sub can handle a lot of power so I will crank the gain up every now and than if I feel like it.

The P400.4 is rated at 400 Watts.

I will appreciate more input from people, thanks.
 

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4ga. will be okay, anything more would be better.

I'd suggest trying both boxes. I'm firing through the ski-pass and the sound stays within the car and there's no audible rattling.
 

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just get this
Kicker PKD1 - 0/1 Gauge Dual Amp Power Kit • 20' 0/1 AWG Power Wire • 3 0/1 AWG Ground Wire • 20' 16 AWG Remote Wire • 300A ANL Fuse and Holder • 2 Distribution Blocks • 5' 4 AWG Power Wire • 5' 4 AWG Ground Wire - , Car Installation & Accessories, A

from what i've heard, Kicker makes the best 0 gauge wire out there. it's extremely flexible which helps in routing it around the engine bay, through grommets, and down the side of the car. it will work perfectly for your needs.

spend ~$150 on a good enclosure and you saved over $500 from what the installer quoted you. of course you would have to install it yourself, but there's tons of help on this forum for that.
 

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I paid about $35 in parts to build that box I think and it took me a day. Most of the time was to tweak the large baffle board so that it fit behind the seats and then let glue dry in between putting on different panels. I'll see if I can dig up the drawings and I'll post them here. Mine was for .5 cu ft but I'll mod it for .75 cu. ft. or whatever.

You def won't get as much output going directly through the skipass in a sealed box like this but your application seems much higher power than mine anyway. The thing that I like the most about it compared to the rear firing sub I had before is that there is absolutely no trunk rattle whatsoever. All of the sound is in the cabin. This keeps it a lot more high class IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I paid about $35 in parts to build that box I think and it took me a day. Most of the time was to tweak the large baffle board so that it fit behind the seats and then let glue dry in between putting on different panels. I'll see if I can dig up the drawings and I'll post them here. Mine was for .5 cu ft but I'll mod it for .75 cu. ft. or whatever.

You def won't get as much output going directly through the skipass in a sealed box like this but your application seems much higher power than mine anyway. The thing that I like the most about it compared to the rear firing sub I had before is that there is absolutely no trunk rattle whatsoever. All of the sound is in the cabin. This keeps it a lot more high class IMO.
That would really helpful if you found sometime to do that. Let me know if you need anything from me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I paid about $35 in parts to build that box I think and it took me a day. Most of the time was to tweak the large baffle board so that it fit behind the seats and then let glue dry in between putting on different panels. I'll see if I can dig up the drawings and I'll post them here. Mine was for .5 cu ft but I'll mod it for .75 cu. ft. or whatever.

You def won't get as much output going directly through the skipass in a sealed box like this but your application seems much higher power than mine anyway. The thing that I like the most about it compared to the rear firing sub I had before is that there is absolutely no trunk rattle whatsoever. All of the sound is in the cabin. This keeps it a lot more high class IMO.
That would be really helpful if you found some time to do that. Let me know if you need anything from me.
 

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IDQ10V.2 sealed thru ski pass

Here are the plans for the box I made. This is appx 0.5 cu. ft. for an IDQ10V.2

You must make sure that your subwoofer can fit inside the box where I have the hole positioned before you cut. If it can't, move the hole up towards the rear deck and make other adjustments as necessary. Also, I had to trim a little bit of the sheet metal around the ski pass to get things flush.

To increase box volume, start with additional box width first and add depth only if necessary. This will save trunk space. You'll have to be able to do a little math yourself to get things to come out properly according to your woofers specifications. Also, internal bracing should be added to the design for best results. Cut some dowel rods or something and glue them in.

This design is cantilevered (hung) directly from the bulkhead behind the rear seats. It does not rest on top of the "hump". Make sure you securely bolt this sucker in. I'll leave that part up to you.

-V

Edit: You could also modify this design for a rear firing real easy.
 

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The reason I used a large front baffle (bigger than the size of box) was to help seal off the trunk from the front of the driver and to give me more options on bolting into the bulkhead behind the seats. I didn't want sound escaping into the trunk.

Once you take the rear seats out you'll see where you have opportunities to bolt through. I used 1/4-20 socket head cap screws with large flat washers around the perimeter of the enclosure. Use at least four but more if possible.
 

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^that's the greatest idea when doing a ski-pass enclosure. you can have major phase anamolies with a gap between your enclosure and the rear seat back.

did you use any deadening or foam type material to help make a better seal?
 

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did you use any deadening or foam type material to help make a better seal?
I thought about foam but I didn't do it. I did make sure the ski pass itself was tight all the way around with the baffle but I probably could have done more here. My baffle covers the entire seatback and seems to have done the job adequately, though. I do have deadening on the entire surface of the seatback (both sides) but I'm not sure how much sealing that helped with.

Soon I'm gonna install a new sub amp and when I do I'll probably try and add some foam here.
 
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