[Tyler TwoJay]

Okay so about a week and a half ago, I had replaced the engine harness, due to an engine fire, and while I was replacing the harness with everything already taken off, I had replaced the valve cover gaskets, the spark plugs, coil packs, spark plug wires, fuel injectors, and also cleaned the throttle body and the intake manifold (plenums).
After putting everything back together, I figured I’d have a bunch of codes, but I didn’t, it was running a bit rough, but I figured brand new injectors along with plugs and all, it’s probably just out of wack. So I let it idle to temp, took it for a drive, and it didn’t feel right, it took a bit of throttle to go, but I figured out I had my throttle cable set backwards (not enough tension) so I fixed that, but I still have a small choking/bogging (rpm drops a lot) acts like it’s going to die, but then will start to go, and drives fine after that. Sometimes I will get a pending CEL code when I start my car, but it rarely actually pops on my dash, it’s for a too rich in bank 1 and 2. Unsure if I should put my old injectors or if it’s just the computer needing to adjust still.

Also the other issue I’m now having (keep in mind I drive with trac off, is when I come to a stop, my trac light and abs light with flash together, and then when I accelerate the trac light stays on like it should and the abs light turns off. My car sat for about a month to a month a half with the wheels off and garbage bags over the rotors (I live in a rainy place) any ideas?
I seen some forums say my wheel speed sensor, but I also remember someone mentioning that they don’t really go out too often, they just get dirty. Could it be a wheel sensor? Or could it be something else?

 

[01 SolarYellow]

The abs system has some rust. The light should go away after driving more. As fas as the pending code. What is the cell number?

 

[Tyler TwoJay]

Where should I begin to check for rust? At the brakes or at the abs box?
and the codes are P0172 too rich in bank 1 and bank 2

 

[01 SolarYellow]

Where should I begin to check for rust? At the brakes or at the abs box?
and the codes are P0172 too rich in bank 1 and bank 2

Totally stock engine and parts right?

 

[Tyler TwoJay]

Yes, everything is all stock

 

[01 SolarYellow]

I would check the APP sensor. Also check for any vacuum leaks.

 

[Tyler TwoJay]

I would check the APP sensor. Also check for any vacuum leaks.

okay which is that? I get that and the tps backwards.
And I did check for vacuum leaks, but didn’t come across any

 

[01 SolarYellow]

The APP is the one the throttle cable attaches to.

 

[Pnut00]

Given that the error is for bank 1 i would imagine there might be an issue with either an injector or plug on that bank, or maybe the o2 sensor.

Wouldn't an APP or vacuum leak affect all cylinders?

 

[01 SolarYellow]

Given that the error is for bank 1 i would imagine there might be an issue with either an injector or plug on that bank, or maybe the o2 sensor.

Wouldn't an APP or vacuum leak affect all cylinders?

Depends if the leak is localized to bank one. Like gasket or o ring etc. The APP might cause a stumble by not sending the signal of proper position.

 

[Pnut00]

Depends if the leak is localized to bank one. Like gasket or o ring etc. The APP might cause a stumble by not sending the signal of proper position.

Excuse my ignorance at not knowing, but is there anything on the intake manifold that separates banks 1 & 2? And are they any sensors on each one?

I am just trying to understand how its constructed, as i thought the o2 sensors were the only things that defined between the 2 banks. Good point about either the intake or exhaust manifolds has a leak the reading will go off though, hadnt thought of that.

 

[01 SolarYellow]

Excuse my ignorance at not knowing, but is there anything on the intake manifold that separates banks 1 & 2? And are they any sensors on each one?

I am just trying to understand how its constructed, as i thought the o2 sensors were the only things that defined between the 2 banks. Good point about either the intake or exhaust manifolds has a leak the reading will go off though, hadnt thought of that.

Just the O2 sensors. As for where. The gaskets and o rings. For example.

 

[Tyler TwoJay]

Given that the error is for bank 1 i would imagine there might be an issue with either an injector or plug on that bank, or maybe the o2 sensor.

Wouldn't an APP or vacuum leak affect all cylinders?

so I’m getting a code for bank 1 and bank 2.
But I had just replaced all 3 o2 sensors (ones closest the cats). As I was told those are the main ones. But I did replace the injectors, could it be I got GTE injectors or higher rated injectors without realizing it? I mean I already did fuck up buying an 02 harness without realizing that 01 has a different harness and ecu.
I still have my old injectors, if I put those back in, would that fix the issue right away? Or would I have to drive it for another 2 weeks for it to fix itself?

 

[Tyler TwoJay]

Just the O2 sensors. As for where. The gaskets and o rings. For example.

im wondering if I bought GTE injectors or something without realizing it. Because everything was running fine before the harness caught fire. Aside from an exhaust leak, but nothing that was that caused a CEL or any type of hesitation/bogging. I have a video I can post of what it’s doing I can post

 

[01 SolarYellow]

so I’m getting a code for bank 1 and bank 2.
But I had just replaced all 3 o2 sensors (ones closest the cats). As I was told those are the main ones. But I did replace the injectors, could it be I got GTE injectors or higher rated injectors without realizing it? I mean I already did fuck up buying an 02 harness without realizing that 01 has a different harness and ecu.
I still have my old injectors, if I put those back in, would that fix the issue right away? Or would I have to drive it for another 2 weeks for it to fix itself?

The injectors are your issue with being rich. Did you need to adapt the injector size mounting? If so, That is the problem. Are the just an Auto part store replacement?

 

[Tyler TwoJay]

The injectors are your issue with being rich. Did you need to adapt the injector size mounting? If so, That is the problem. Are the just an Auto part store replacement?

sorry for the delayed replies.
I bought the injectors off eBay. No I didn’t have to adapt anything. They just popped right in. If I replace them with my old one, will if fix the issue right away? Or would the computer have to recalibrate?

 

[01 SolarYellow]

sorry for the delayed replies.
I bought the injectors off eBay. No I didn’t have to adapt anything. They just popped right in. If I replace them with my old one, will if fix the issue right away? Or would the computer have to recalibrate?

It should be fine.

 

[Tyler TwoJay]

It should be fine.

okay. So I’ll swap my old injectors back in tonight when the heat cools off, but will that fix the bogging, or drop in rpm when I accelerate? Because that’s the main issue I’m trying to chase down.

 

[01 SolarYellow]

Do not know what is causing it yet. Is the bogg more pronoused when the car is warm or does not matter?

 

[Tyler TwoJay]

It doesn’t matter if it’s warm or not. It’s only when I first accelerate, sometimes it will do it, if I’m lightly pressing the gas pedal, like maybe 5% pressed. It will do that. But if I drive normally, like 20-50% on throttle it will drive fine. If I smash the gas to the floor, it takes it a second, but then it will get up and go.

I’m just really at a loss, because everything was fine before the engine fire. And the now I’m having these issues.

it’s unfortunate I can’t post a video on here to show exactly what’s going on and how.