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I drilled small holes all the way around using a small spade drill bit..careful, only put the tip in :wink:
I was afraid of hitting something underneath, so I got a flathead and hit it horizontally. It would slightly break in between the holes easily. I wanted there to be metal to metal contact when sealing it. Putting it back together was a bit challenging bc it was such a tight fit, and it had to be perfectly leveled. I sealed it with marine JB weld. If anyone does this, you can also vacuum the dirt around the valve before you remove it. You'll be thankful you did.

I was on a short deadline to do my smog. I wasn't able to pass by resetting the ecu. The ecu monitor on the scanner wasn't ready, and by the time it was ready my CEL was back.


The crack on the valve, it had another smaller one on the other side.

No creaks, no gas fumes in the cabin, and no CEL
 

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I had to do this repair too.

The rollover valve hold down plate uses 8mm or phillips head bolts, 6 of them.


Out of curiosity, who has just epoxied the crack instead of replacing the valve? (they are all cracked in the same place, right on the top edge)
 

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Out of curiosity, who has just epoxied the crack instead of replacing the valve? (they are all cracked in the same place, right on the top edge)
Hopefully no one lol Its just a $35 part including the gasket.
 

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When replacing the fuel tank over fill check valve I got the big hose off with some work but after replacing the valve I went to put the large hose back on I figured it would slip right back on but for the life of me I could not get the teeth back over the F'ng ridge. I ended up breaking one side in the process, the other side is clipped on. So my question.. what is the larger hose exactly? It seems like the hose just seats up against the valve nozzle. Does this need to be a tight seal? The clip on the other side is holding it pretty well, it's not going anywhere. Do I need to worry about it being a tight seal?
I figured if it was supposed to be an air tight seal it would be like the smaller hose that fits tightly into the smaller valve nozzle with the hose clip.
 

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I think getting it back together as well as you can will be good enough. I remember when I was putting everything back together that I bent a tab on one side and I was afraid I had broken it entirely. I shoved the hose as far onto the nipple as I could and at least one side engaged. The other side might have as well, but I kinda doubt it. I don't know what the hose is for specifically, but I did this fix more than three and a half years ago and I haven't had another problem with it since. In fact, I haven't had the CEL come on at all since this issue was fixed.

Maybe someone else has better information about what it is or how secure it needs to be. If not, I wouldn't worry about it at all.
 

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Just picked up an 02 w 128K. Had p0440 and p0442 codes. smelled gas back of car during warm late afternoon. Glad this post is here. Great info. Went to Junkyard and practiced cutting the hole there. removed the metal chuck and used as template for my car (brought sharpe and marked critical areas on template). drilled single hole w larger bit closest to drivers seat. Used tin snips to cut three sides and peeled it back toward the trunk. I cut more into the hump between the seats so I could access the dredded larger hose (glad I did). Removed small hose. Then removed valve from tank. pulled on it to get to larger clip. Used two small slotted screw drivers (one for each snap on connector). Stuck the drivers into the connector to release both lock features and it pulled right out leaving the drivers in place as I pulled. Took 15 min to remove and reinstall valve once hole was open.

I used some sheet metal and cut a 7"x7" "L" about 2-3" wide. I bolted that on two sides of the new access hole on the underside of the car. Bent the access flap back over and used sheet metal screws to secure it in place. Just used some tar HVAC tacy putty to seal up the edges of the access hole. This extra metal restored the rigidity of the hump area. I figured the tar putty will give upon movement and maintain seal.

Great post!!!

Was a plastics engineer. Looked for weld line or crack in check valve w jewelers glass (what we do to root cause failures in the industry). I couldn't find it. The metal rim on the tank side of the doughnut seal had surface corrosion. I'm thinking mine was leaking at the seal.

No more fuel smell. Only a few hundred miles. Code wouldn't throw until I racked up about 600-800 miles. So I'm in a wait and see mode.
 

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I know I’m bringing back an old thread but going through the process in my 01 IS300 now. I got the old valve and the new unit in. I am struggling to get the bigger hose with plastic connector onto the tube. Anyone run into this and have any tips?
 
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