Depending on the printer you have the printing part only takes a bit of time to learn. Learning CAD and design is more difficult. When I got my printer I didn't think I would use it much but it comes in really handy with small little improvements like this.Nice thanks. I really need to learn more about 3D printing, i know how it works but never had the need or time to play with it any further.
I DIY alignments. Use a 4' level as a straight-edge. This way you can project the wheel-disc plane forward about 30", and also rearwards about 30"...This highly exaggerates the included angle between the wheels. I made some stand-offs that screw to the level, and touch off of the wheel lip. It creates a far better "qualified surface" than touching off of the sidewalls of the tires. I put the level up against the wheel, projecting forward and downward to the floor - then stick a piece of painters tape to the floor - then use the level as a straight-edge to make a line on the tape. Then flip the level so it's pointing rearward and downwards toward the floor... Next, measure across from front-left tape mark to front-right tape mark - and repeat for the rear-left to rear-right tape marks.I borrowed some toe plates today so I can give it a quick alignment
Why? The IS300 is relatively light and pretty slippery in the air. LS engines return way, way better than 10mpg in far heavier and less aerodynamic vehicles. C5 and C6 corvettes can easily get 25mpg. Easy. The 5th and 6th gen Camaros easily get 20 or better. The IS300 isn't as light and slippery as a C5 or C6, but it's definitely lighter and at least as slippery as a Camaro.Right now the car is getting about 10 mpg
Cruising at ~1500-1800rpm vs 3000rpm. The LS1 isn’t very mpg-friendly once you get it past ~2200rpm in my experience.Why? The IS300 is relatively light and pretty slippery in the air. LS engines return way, way better than 10mpg in far heavier and less aerodynamic vehicles. C5 and C6 corvettes can easily get 25mpg. Easy. The 5th and 6th gen Camaros easily get 20 or better. The IS300 isn't as light and slippery as a C5 or C6, but it's definitely lighter and at least as slippery as a Camaro.
ehhhhhh......Cruising at ~1500-1800rpm vs 3000rpm. The LS1 isn’t very mpg-friendly once you get it past ~2200rpm in my experience.
That definitely hurts mpg. A lot. A lot a lot.I haven't exactly been babying it
Ah, yes - coal-fired power! Maybe install a 1,000,000 BTU steam generator to the trunk like a 1920s-era Doble and a two or three stage piston assembly to the front axle. Get ALL the torques!Maybe I just need to add some electric motors to the front wheels and make it a hybrid.
I once got 4mpg at the pump with a rental ~2015 ford fusion driving around at high rpm so idk 😂ehhhhhh......
I put 10k miles on a ~2014 police package Chrysler 300 with 5.7L, A580 5spd auto, AWD and 3.90 gears. It did 3000rpm or better @ 70mph and still returned 20+ mpg.
I agree theres definitely more engine friction @ 3000rpm vs 1800rpm - and that translates to worse mpg. But it doesn't explain 10mpg.
Yeah that’ll all drop mpg by quite a lot. I get ~12mpg-14mpg when I go up through the Angeles mountains even though 50% of that is normal highway driving and I don’t really floor it in the canyons either. Driving a LS1 boat like it’s a Miata.I think it's a few things. First me, I haven't exactly been babying it. I could probably get a bit better if I drove like a normal person but it's just too fun stepping on it. Second, I believe a lot of the mpg numbers come from the double overdrive of the t56. I think 6th is .6:1 or .5:1, my ar5 is .73:1. The rpm is just a guess as my gauge isn't reading correctly. Last it just has a base tune so I assume they programmed it to run on the richer side. Hopefully the tune, new diff ratio, and driving normally will help. I'd expect it to be at least as efficient as the stock motor. Maybe I just need to add some electric motors to the front wheels and make it a hybrid.
Yes I still have both floats and the fuel level I got to kinda confirms the jet pump is working. I haven't done much reading on this but here is how I understand it to work. Please correct me if I am wrong. When you start the car it pulls the fuel level from the float sensor. Then it switches over and starts calculated fuel used based on the MAF, injector pluses, ect. This is so that if fuel sloshes in the tank you don't see the needle move as it is no longer using those sensor or is using them as a backup. This seems to make sense to me especially for a stock car. As an engineer this is kinda solving a problem that doesn't really exist or matter but if it works right who cares. And it does work except when you modify the car. As I understand it if you remove the Lexus maf, the tank only works in 1/4 tank increments and is not very accurate. Thinking ahead I put the Lexus maf in the intake and wired it back to the ECU. It may not be reading totally correctly anymore but at least it's there. The part I am missing is the injector feedback. That can be added with some diodes and a transistor. Or at least that's what the internet says. This may only fix the blinking fuel light. It may need some fine tuning to actually get the tank to move correctly but I'd just like to get close. Right now when I start the car it will read say 3/4 tank. After driving for say 20 miles the needle will have quickly moved to say 1/2 tank. If I were to turn off the car and start it again it would read a little under 3/4 tank, denoting the fuel I actually used. I think when the needle is dropping while driving it's doing fuel flow/used calcs and they are obviously incorrect. Maybe I need to replace the MAF with a resistor that tricks it into calculating my average mpg. Or maybe it best to just intercept the float sensors and display it on my screen and skip the fuel gauge. I'm going to spend a little time on it but hopefully not get lost in the weeds. I'd really like the car to function normally but that may not be possible. I don't really want to jump into canbus so I will just try to simulate sensors to trick the ECU.I am guessing you are still running both the fuel level floats on both sides of the tank?
Not that i will pretend to know anything lol, but after reading most other fuel gauge issues it often seems to come back to an issue with one of the float sensors on one side. Pretty sure yours will be different as you mentioned though?
I don’t think sim-ing the injectors is needed. Just need the MAF to be hooked up and the IGF sim should fix the fuel gauge. I’m on a stock ecu / standalone with ID1050’s and a billet twin pump fuel hanger using the stock float and my fuel gauge works like stock. So you should not need to do anything with the injector outputs of the factory ecu.The part I am missing is the injector feedback. That can be added with some diodes and a transistor.
I’d hardly call that intake restrictive. That’s a very sizable diameter of intake tract. Regardless, as Hodgdon, said 300whp is right for a stock ls1.View attachment 144370
I don't think my very restrictive intake helped much but it made pretty good power.