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Nice to see it nearly finished!

I had been wondering about the oil filter location, it looks nice and easy to get to, but I would expect when you unscrew it the oil would pour out from inside the filter and down the block or ancillaries? At least if it is hanging down the oil is contained inside the filter... or does the oil drain out into the engine before you get a chance to unscrew it on those?
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Nice to see it nearly finished!

I had been wondering about the oil filter location, it looks nice and easy to get to, but I would expect when you unscrew it the oil would pour out from inside the filter and down the block or ancillaries? At least if it is hanging down the oil is contained inside the filter... or does the oil drain out into the engine before you get a chance to unscrew it on those?
My FRS has basically the same setup. From factory it's upright but has a little lip to stop oil spilling out. I added a sandwich plate for an oil cooler so now it's just flat like this one. I think as long as you wait like 10 minutes for most of the oil to drain out of the filter it's fine.Their are some drips but it's easy to catch with a rag. Not perfect but if your careful it's pretty easy. The factory IS setup is way worse. I don't think I ever changed a filter without spilling oil. I even used a bag over the filter when I removed it.
I have been really considering making a custom part to replace the relocation block. I think I'll get it running and then make something that fits better and won't spill oil. Right now is issue is the lines rub right against the head at a sharp corner. I'd maybe give them 6 months before they would leak. I'm just trying to fix that with minimal changes.
 

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Interesting, guess as the LS isn't that common over here i have never had to work on one, if it all drains out then I guess it isn't a problem really. Yeah the factory JZ location sucks, its a PITA to get to let alone the mess it makes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
I'm finally getting to the easy stuff, buttoning everything up. I bled the brakes; I used a vacuum pump to help the process.
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It went pretty smoothly except for bleeding the abs. I read you are supposed to add like 15 psi to the mc reservoir to help bleed the abs. I came up with this.
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It had some bad leaks but the real issue was anything over 5 psi and the lid popped off. I was able to get to 15 psi by holding the lid on with my hand. But when I was pretty much done I moved my hand a bit and the lid popped off again. It sprayed brake fluid everywhere and took a long time to clean up. Regardless brakes are bled, they feel good and I couldn't find any leaks in the lines or fittings. I also rebled the clutch and it seems good now too. Since the clutch worked I added trans fluid and started buttoning up the interior. Because the trans is a few inches forward of where it used to be my boot no longer fit. This was a piece I made when I first did the trans swap.
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I was in a rush when I made it and always wanted to go back and fix it. Now that I have a printer I was able to print a part that looks better and fits with the new trans location.
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I also finished the wiring for the power steering and bled that. The only fluids left are oil and coolant. I need to replace part of my lower radiator hose as I reused the old Lexus radiator hose, then I can add coolant. I also came up with a slight modification to the oil filter mount so I need to drill a hole in the mount and make a new bracket. I am still waiting for wires to finish off the starter and alternator but those come Tuesday. I should be getting my ecu back next week. I dropped it off Monday for a base tune. The list is getting pretty short. One of the last things to figure out is sealing the intake pipe to the throttle body. I was hoping an oring would work but these don't really fit. I might try to find a thin piece of rubber or worst case use some rtv.
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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
I got the oil filter mount cut and bent. On the left is the old design, right is the new.
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I just rotated the filter 90 degrees and moved it up a bit. This should stop the lines from rubbing and kinking. Because of that the oil pressure sensor was hitting the pulley. I drilled a hew hole in the filter mount so I could add the sensor to the side.
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I got everything assembled but because I moved the filter I need to remake one of the oil lines. The other oil line interferes with coolant expansion tank so that will need to move it a bit.
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I remade the lower oil line because it was ovaling around one of the corners. I hate what I came up with but until I get a 5/8" tube bender it will have to do.
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I got a few other small things done like mounting the PS circuit breaker and replacing the lower coolant hose with a new one.
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I received some rubber to seal up the intake. I cut a strip of it and wrapped it around the throttle body. It seems like it will seal I just need to tape it down so it's a bit easier to install the tube.
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I'm just down to an oil line and a bit of wiring. Then it's time to test everything and start the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
I didn't have a lot of time to work this week. I got the oil line remade and am ready to leak check. The lines are a lot better than they were. They no longer contact anything or rub.
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I am still having issues fitting the coolant expansion tank between the lines but I'll come up with something.
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I also added a temp sensor for oil temp. I couldn't find a thermocouple I could buy that would fit so of course I made one. I drilled a holes about 3/4 of the way into this plug. Then I gooped some cpu thermal paste I had on the thermocouple. Finally I sealed it with some adhesive.
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Strain relief is really important for this as I don't think it would take much to pull it out so I zip tied the connector securely.I think I'm going to make a whole new oil filter mount at some point so that temp sensor will get replaced with a proper one. The original wires for my alternator and starter were damaged and super corroded so I bought some new ones.
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I was initially going to make it from scratch but I ordered the totally wrong wire diameter. I was able to get the starter all connected. It's very difficult to access as the headers have to be partially disassembled. I have to unbolt both parts and then wiggle them around to get access. The alternator cable in that assembly is way too short so I ended up ordering more cable to connect it.
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I also got my ecu back from the tuner. The car is pretty much ready to start. I need to finish the coolant expansion tank and alternator wiring. Then I can add oil and coolant then start it. It won't be that simple as I would like to verify everything is working before I turn the key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
I had a mini vacation last weekend so nothing got done. I was able to tidy some things up this weekend. I started by trying to pin the connector for my oil pressure sensor. I spent way to long trying to get it to work but failed. I came to find out that it's a pull to lock connector. So you slide the bare wire through the connector, crimp it then pull it back to lock it in. I don't know who comes up with this stuff but hopefully they get what's coming to them. I ordered more terminals so I can finish it next week.
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The failure continued when tried installing the intake. I cut this thin strip of rubber to seal the pipe. I tried double sided tape and glue to stick it down but it didn't work. I finally found some adhesive gasket spray and that did the trick.
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When I was sliding the pipe on I heard some cracking noises. I was able to see a few small cracks forming on the pipe so it doesn't have long. I'm sticking with it for now and I'll have another made printed slightly differently. I did get this sweet clamp to clamp the pipe. It seems to work very well.
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I also made some power lines to connect the starter and alternator to the battery. I didn't have enough room on my power terminal so I had to move power for the power steering pump to the fuse box where the AC usually goes. I just need to wrap one of the power wires with some split loom and that’s done.
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I pressurized my oil lines today with 100psi of air. I found one fitting I didn't tighten but everything else looks good. I went over all the fitting with soapy water and didn't see any bubbles. I forgot to put a valve on my test equipment so I couldn't do a leak down test. I'll do it next weekend.
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I also found out I need a resistor on the alternator signal wire. I guess in OEM form there is a light bulb that helps limit current to it. It was pretty easy to add.
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Finally I have come up with an idea for a mount for my coolant expansion tank. It no longer fits well where I originally had it and it's the last thing to figure out. I still think I'm on schedule to start it over Thanksgiving. I should be putting oil in it soon.
 

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For the intake, you might be able to remelt the plastic where the cracks are. Similar to how plastic welders work but I suspect you’ll need a blowtorch for the ultem. I would love to see the setup that you’re printing it on.

I think having a tiny slot where it mates to the throttle body might help prevent it from cracking as well. (Like slip joint exhaust parts) Or use a silicone coupler between the intake and throttle body maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
For the intake, you might be able to remelt the plastic where the cracks are. Similar to how plastic welders work but I suspect you’ll need a blowtorch for the ultem. I would love to see the setup that you’re printing it on.

I think having a tiny slot where it mates to the throttle body might help prevent it from cracking as well. (Like slip joint exhaust parts) Or use a silicone coupler between the intake and throttle body maybe?
The black one is abs so I probably could melt it back together. This intake is temporary so I may just see how long it lasts as is. I'll probably do another one out of ultem that is printed differently so it is less likely to crack. I also think using rtv instead of a rubber seal would help. You are right though a silicone coupler is the right solution. For now the cracks aren't bad so it should last at least one event. It was printed on a Fortus. I could have probably done it on my printer but the Fortus did a better job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Saturday I tidied up the car. I got some of the power wires wrapped in split loom and taped. I also tested my new coolant expansion tank mount. It's a lot stronger and fits better so I just need to machine it now.
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I didn't have the setup to do the leak down test on the oil lines so that was Sunday. I also got the bumper on and a few other things cleaned up. When doing a leak down test I found a really bad leak at the oil filter.
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Air is a lot thinner than oil so this may be normal but I decided to try to fix it. My oil pressure sensor also doesn't seem to be reading properly. I am reading the sensor off an Arduino that will also monitor temp. I need to solder everything together and make a case for it.
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To fix the leak I am going to replace the filter and remachine the adapter sealing surface. I’ve had that filter off and on a bunch so the seal may be torn. I checked the electrical system and have a few things to check/fix. I also turned on the fuel pump and that seems to work. I pulled the signal wire that activates the low pressure fuel pump mode from the ECU.
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I also removed the fuel pump resistor. Finally I got the oil pressure sensor pinned. For anyone using one of these this is how you do it. I still think it's super dumb.
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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
I had a cold this weekend so I didn't have the energy to do any work. I really needed to fix the oil filter mount and machine the coolant tank mount but I didn't have the energy for that Monday. Instead I spent way too much time making this heat shield for my fuel pressure regulator. I cut it from this DE material.
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I made a template out of cardboard. It's super easy to shape and then I sealed the edges with some high temp aluminum tape. It looks pretty good but there are a lot more I need to make so hopefully I get faster.
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I also sorted out one of the electrical issues I had. I wasn't getting power to the injectors through the relays I added. Turned out I didn't actually look at the pin out of the relay and so I just had to move some terminals around. I also got a setup to check fuel pressure.
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And there was none. I saw a little fuel in the rail and I could hear the pump. I found the issue today. The plug I used to plug the hole where the stock pressure regulator used to be was held in with hopes and dreams. When those failed so did the pressure. I cut up the old regulator and stuck it on top so the plug is clamped better. I will need to come up with a permanent solution but it should work for a first start. I was still only seeing 50 psi when it should be 58. So I need to do some more checks. Yesterday I got the oil filter housing machined. This is what a proper sealing surface should look like.
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With a new filter that leak was solved. I found another leak from under the filter and I believe one of my Chinese an oil filter fittings isn't sealing properly. I put one of these aluminum gaskets on it and that fixed the leak.
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I did a leak down over 20 minutes and pressure went from 95psi to 90 so it think it's good. I didn't hear any other leaks either. I was about to button everything up and I realized my oil supply and return lines from the motor were backwards. I must have messed them up when I added the heat shield to the lines. The supply line was easy to fix but I want to try a different fitting on the return line to see if I can make it fit a bit better. That will be for Friday. I also finished the design of my cet mount. I got the holder machined today and now I just need to make the mounting bracket. That will probably have to wait.
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As it currently sits I need to fix the one oil line, recheck for leaks, fill with oil, look into the fuel pressure, and do one final electrical checkout. Assuming the ECU powers up it might start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
I wasn't expecting to work on my car today but I had a few free hours so I decided to knock some things out. I got a new fitting yesterday evening and finished up my oil lines. One of the fittings is really hard to get engaged and is really tight however both lines are now about as far away from the headers as they can be. Before one of the lines was only about an inch away.
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While I was at it I replaced the leaking fitting in the oil filter and removed the gasket. I redid the leak check and everything seems fine. Starting at 100PSI pressure dropped to 90PSI after 10 minutes. It's not great but I don't think there will be any oil leaks. I also rechecked my fuel pressure at the fuel rail and it's 64PSI which is great. I looked into the issues I had reading my pressure sensor too. Turns out the diagram they showed is wrong and I just had the positive and negative switched. Of course because it's this stupid pull to lock I had to cut all the terminals off, relocate the wires then repin. Now it's reading properly. This leaves me with a final electrical check, connecting to the LS ECU, and adding coolant and oil. It will probably take a bit of time to properly prime and prelube the engine but that should be the last hard thing to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Today was another good day. I got 7qts of oil in the motor and hopefully primed the oil pump.
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That involved removing the alternator. I ran into a bit of a disassembly problem with this really long bolt but I was able to unbolt the whole alternator bracket to get it out.
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I still need to fill the oil lines and get the accusump running so I can prelube the motor. I also got some coolant in it but I need to buy more. Finally I did some checks on the electrical system. The starter wire seems to be getting power so it should turn over. The LS ECU connector also checked out. I plugged in the ECU and was able to read it.
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Fortunately the LS and Lexus ECU’s use different OBD protocols so I can switch between them on the fly. There were no errors with the LS ECU so I don't foresee any issues. Tomorrow it's just getting the motor primed and getting oil pressure. Then I should be able to attempt a start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
So today was the day. I tried to prefill the oil lines as best as possible. Then I filled the accusump with about 1 qrt of oil and pushed it through the motor under pressure. I removed all the spark plugs, added some oil to the top of the pistons and cranked it over till I was reading about 30 PSI of oil pressure. Then I put everything back and gave it a shot. The video is here. It fired right up and is pretty loud with no exhaust. It died after about 10 seconds of running. I started it a few more times and it seems to start and run well but still dies. I still take it as a win but I've got some work to do. I suspect it's my fuel pump, it is still controlled by the Lexus ecu. I noticed last week when checking the fuel pump it doesn't seem to prime on ignition 2 and only turn on when I move the key to start. I suspect once the motor starts and it goes to ignition 2, it turns the pump off. Hence it runs for a little bit then runs out of fuel. I believe the Lexus ecu needs a signal it's not getting to keep the fuel pump on. Does anyone have any info on this or know how to trick it. I still have the wiring in the LS harness to trigger the fuel pump and I left 3 extra wires going from the IS to LS ecu. I will probably just end up having the LS ECU trigger the fuel pump. It should just require pinning one of the spare wires. I'm not going to mess with it anymore this weekend. Everything else seemed good. I was getting around 45 psi of oil pressure. Also my tach was working and seems to be reading correctly. Fuel level is not reading at all and I have a cel code for mass air flow circuit. The maf should have been deleted from my ecu so I will have to have a tuner look at that. I also got the wheels spinning on jack stands but it doesn’t stay running long enough to actually try to drive it. Still it should be pretty close to getting an exhaust and tune.
 

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It fired right up and is pretty loud with no exhaust. It died after about 10 seconds of running. I started it a few more times and it seems to start and run well but still dies. I still take it as a win but I've got some work to do. I suspect it's my fuel pump, it is still controlled by the Lexus ecu. I noticed last week when checking the fuel pump it doesn't seem to prime on ignition 2 and only turn on when I move the key to start. I suspect once the motor starts and it goes to ignition 2, it turns the pump off. Hence it runs for a little bit then runs out of fuel.
Do you still have the fuel pump resistor? I’ve had something similar happen when I unplugged it. The pump doesn’t prime on key on. It runs full speed for cranking then goes to low speed. Seems like it’s working at full speed but not low speed. I had to bypassed the resistor (well actually I bypassed the stock ecu’s control of the fuel pump relay. You should just wire the LS one to it.)

There’s a good description of the fuel pump relay circuit in diagnostics manual, page 355 on the pdf that’s floating around. Page DI-161 alternatively.
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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Sounds so much better than any Silverado I've heard lol. I'm jealous
Those long tubes add some good noise. But I think they will eventaully melt my whole engine bay

Do you still have the fuel pump resistor? I’ve had something similar happen when I unplugged it. The pump doesn’t prime on key on. It runs full speed for cranking then goes to low speed. Seems like it’s working at full speed but not low speed. I had to bypassed the resistor (well actually I bypassed the stock ecu’s control of the fuel pump relay. You should just wire the LS one to it.)

There’s a good description of the fuel pump relay circuit in diagnostics manual, page 355 on the pdf that’s floating around. Page DI-161 alternatively.
I removed the resistor and depinned the ground the ECU supplies for the low pressure fuel pump relay. I might try plugging the resistor back in since it can’t do anything. I looked at the wiring more and the IS ecu supplies a ground to turn on the relay, the LS supplies power to trip the relay so it’s not super simple. It wouldn’t be too hard to get the LS controlling the relay but if all I have to do is plug in the resistor that may be the way to go. Thanks for the info
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
I was able to get the LS1 running today. First I checked for any leaks. I found one on the oil drain plug. I had tried to reuse an old fumoto valve I had but it wasn’t the right thread and ended up leaking. I replaced it with the plug the oil pan came with. I tried draining all the oil but it took forever so I just hot swapped it. Hopefully it seals well. I also machined the mounting bracket for my coolant expansion mount. This was probably the most technically difficult part I’ve had to make for this car. I took a bit of work but it came out ok.
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This is also the last part I needed to machine for this swap. I still want to make some new knuckles but that’s not a rush. To get the motor running I tried reinstalling the fuel pump resistor but that didn’t help. I traced the issue back to the circuit opening relay. For some reason the IS ECU isn’t happy and is not activating it. This provides power to the fuel pump and triggers the signal for the LS coils and injectors. Basically if this relay doesn’t close then the LS has no switched power. I need to dig into why it is not activating. I may look into controlling this relay with the LS ecu however I looks like the LS ecu only has switched power signals and I need a switched ground to activate this relay. I have thought of a few ways to fix this but for now I just removed the relay and jumped power over it.
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The downside is the fuel pump now turns on when I insert the key in the ignition. The upside is I was able to start the motor and keep it running. I made another video here. It’s really loud and my phones microphone doesn’t handle it really well so the sound is a little messed up. I was able to drive it a bit up and down the driveway. It seems to work pretty well. If all goes well I will load it up on a trailer and take it to get an exhaust on Monday. Once I have an exhaust I can take it out for a test drive and make sure everything works. Then I just need a tune and alignment and it should be ready for a proper test.
 
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