[Hodgdon Extreme]

That does make total sense. Not to toot my own horn (seriously), but I'm an engineer and I'm familiar with these concepts.

However, if I'm remembering my buddy's issue correctly - I'm pretty sure the ARP directions are to NOT lube between the hardened washer and the cylinder head - ONLY lube between the bolt's integrated washer/flange and the washer itself; which would introduce what you are calling an "unknown source of friction" between the washer and cylinder head.

I'm fully on board with your explanation and totally agree, but if I understood my (mech engineer) buddy's issue correctly - ARP would be relying on a less-repeatable and higher-friction interface to set clamp load...which doesn't make sense to me.

PS: I've got a rod bolt stretch gage in my toolbox - it's the only way to torque critical fasteners when you've got access to both ends!

 

[Rigel]

So my directions say to clean the spot face on the head and make sure the washers and mating surfaces are free of oil and grease. Then grease the threads. Hence my explanation. I could see maybe greasing the threads and one side of the washer. Then you are just dealing with the friction coefficient between the washer and aluminum head which is easy to look up. Regardless, as you suggested I will closely follow the arp instructions. I have removed too many broken taps and bolts in my life and don't need anymore experience.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Thanks for clarifying the actual ARP instructions. I still do not understand why ARP wouldn't want you to lubricate the head/washer to reduce that friction. Of course, that might decrease the recommended amount of torque to achieve the prescribed clamp load - but you'd think it would be a more consistent approach.

Admittedly, I've not installed a ARP bolts in a good number of years - but back in the mid 2000s, when I was doing it all the time, ARP recommended lubing the threads, the spotface in the head for the washer, the washer, and the underside of the bolthead itself. As you mentioned, it can be eye-opening to see the wild differences in clamp load caused by different lubes, materials, surface finishes, etc. Their are volumes of engineering data on fasteners and I'm not a fastener engineer (though I did recently design and build blow-bolt fasteners for the new SLS program!) so I'll totally rely on ARPs recommendations.

Sorry to derail your thread, I hope this excursion has at least been interesting!

 

[DrDDay]

Forr reasons that make zero sense to me, lubrication in the wrong place on the washer/bolthead can really mess things up. My (very competent) buddy disregarded those directions and IIRC, snapped a bolt off in his LS3. ARP was super nice about it and replaced it

Isn't this totally the sign of a great company though? They make bar none the best products in their market that they know are basically infallible if used correctly. Product fails because it was used improperly by the end user after specifically stating how to and how not to use a product. Company proceeds to just shake their head, laugh a bit, and tell you "hey we told you so" and then replace the product YOU broke at no cost. Damn I love ARP, ever since my first set of wheel studs.

 

[Rigel]

Yeah it must be why they are basically the only company for upgraded bolts. It's either oem like or ARP, I don't really know of any other companies. You do pay for it though

 

[Rigel]

I worked on the head bolt holes more today and was finally able to thread in an ARP bolt into each hole. I used acetone and alternated between the "tap" and an ARP bolt repeatedly until the ARP bolt threaded in by hand. I also started on the oil pan. I bought a Canton racing oil pan will all the bells and whistles for drifting. I wish I had gone with a nicer pan as the mating surface on the Canton one is about as flat as the Rockies. They recommend using RTV on both side of the gasket and I can see why. I got the gasket RTVed to the seal and will install it tomorrow once the RTV has dried a bit.

The first oil pickup I bought was a little out of spec and hit the pan. I bought another one and this one fits better.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

It's been my experience that aftermarket race parts almost always need finagling to get them how they need to be. The key to success is knowing how it should be - and having ability to get it that way...

I have the luxury of having a 5' x 5', 4" thick steel workbench that is solid. I prolly woulda tried clamps and hammer-forming the gasket surface of the pan to be flat. I've had success with that in the past, including when I deformed the steel lower pan when I removed it from my 2J.

Keep up the good work!

 

[Pnut00]

I have the luxury of having a 5' x 5', 4" thick steel workbench that is solid.

I would hate to be one of your mates having to help you move house lol 🤣

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

I would hate to be one of your mates having to help you move house lol 🤣

When people see the bench, they wonder how TF it got put there. It wasn't hard. It was loaded on a trailer via a bobcat. Trailer backed into the shop, under the hoist. Hoist arms swung out so it could pick the bench up off the trailer. Trailer driven out. Bench lowered down onto skates. Bench skated into place. Bench jacked up off skates. Skates removed, Bench lowered.

It really is a luxury to have a workbench so solid. It's as if it's simply one with the earth. It also has a mega Wilton 600S vise on one corner.

Best part is I snagged the whole thing off craigslist for $700.

 

[Rigel]

Yesterday I got the oil pan bolted on. I did notice when installing that both the pan and gasket have a hole in them for a bolt but my block doesn't have a tapped hole there. I am worried that this large span without a bolt will cause the pan to leak. I reached out to Canton and hopefully it's fine and I can avoid drilling and tapping a hole in the block. I have my doubts though.

I got the heads on today and completed the valve train. It is really starting to look like an engine now. A while ago I replaced the stock needle bearings on the rockers with CHE bushings. This seems to be a weak point of the LS as the needle bearings can fall out of the rocker and cause issues. The CHE bushing kit was very nice and easy to install. It was one of the few upgrades I've done to prepare this motor for drifting.

All that's really left is the intake and accessories.

 

[Rigel]

Thanks for clarifying the actual ARP instructions. I still do not understand why ARP wouldn't want you to lubricate the head/washer to reduce that friction. Of course, that might decrease the recommended amount of torque to achieve the prescribed clamp load - but you'd think it would be a more consistent approach.

Admittedly, I've not installed a ARP bolts in a good number of years - but back in the mid 2000s, when I was doing it all the time, ARP recommended lubing the threads, the spotface in the head for the washer, the washer, and the underside of the bolthead itself. As you mentioned, it can be eye-opening to see the wild differences in clamp load caused by different lubes, materials, surface finishes, etc. Their are volumes of engineering data on fasteners and I'm not a fastener engineer (though I did recently design and build blow-bolt fasteners for the new SLS program!) so I'll totally rely on ARPs recommendations.

Sorry to derail your thread, I hope this excursion has at least been interesting!

When I was installing the headbolts I reread the instructions and they say to lube the threads and under the head of the bolt like you said, thier are different directions online. I now dont understand why lubing under the washer too would matter. I think I will send ARP an email and ask them. They are very specific about cleaning the spotfaced location on the head and washer. When following their directions you are lubing every area that would cause friction when tightening the bolt so lubing the washer shouldnt matter.

 

[Pnut00]

Just out of curiosity, what are the 2 wires in the valley cover plate for? Sensors?

 

[Rigel]

Just out of curiosity, what are the 2 wires in the valley cover plate for? Sensors?

They are the knock sensors

 

[Rigel]

Last weekend I got the water pump and alternator installed. Then yesterday I got the intake on.

I also decided to remove the oil pan and add the missing hole. I machined a jig to locate the hole and help drill it. Today I got the hole drilled and tapped.

Tomorrow I should have the oil pan, harmonic balancer, and spark plugs installed. All that is left will be installing injectors, fuel rail, and wiring. This weekend I am going to start pulling the JZ.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Looks great, man.

FWIW, the LS1 intake manifold is basically the worst LS manifold ever (except for the FWD LS4 manifold)... Obviously an easy swap later, but the FAST manifold is a solid improvement.

 

[Rigel]

Looks great, man.

FWIW, the LS1 intake manifold is basically the worst LS manifold ever (except for the FWD LS4 manifold)... Obviously an easy swap later, but the FAST manifold is a solid improvement.

I will get new intake, heads, and cam later when I'm ready for more power. This is a late LS1 so it has a LS6 intake and block. I believe the LS6 intake is pretty good but I do want one of those giant FAST intakes at some point.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

The LS6 manifold is a lot better than the LS1. Anyway, the world's your oyster with the LS platform. I think 350hp/350lbft oughtta do just dandy for a drift car, regardless...

 

[Rigel]

Yesterday I got the oil pan on. I also got the harmonic balancer most of the way on. I need to make a tool to stop the crank from spinning so I can fully seat it. I also need some bolts for the AC pulley. The motor just needs injectors, fuel rail, wiring harness, coils, and finishing the balancer and its done.

Today with a few friends, I got the motor out of my IS. It took about 4 hours and went really smoothly. The engine mounts disintegrated when we started lifting so it made it much easier. This week I will clean up the engine bay and wash it. I will also start on mating the trans to the LS. The LS looks quite a bit smaller than the JZ.

 

[Rigel]

Last week it got my injectors back from cleaning. One of them was flowing 100cc under spec. They are now good. I installed them with the fuel rail and coil packs. I also got an idler pulley for my power steering. I have decided to go with an electric power steering pump to simplify everything. Without power steering the stock belt was too loose. I ended up trying the belt on my JZ and somehow it fits perfectly.

One of my PCV hoses was cracked so I ordered a new one, but that is the last thing besides header I need for this engine. Yesterday I replaced the bearing retainer cover on my AR5. I am converting it from the R154 external slave to the stock GM internal slave.

I cleaned the engine bay today. My power washer is not the most powerful so there is still some grit but it’s a lot cleaner than it was.

Today I also went to the junk yard and picked up a IS300 fuel supply hard line. I plan to use this as my fuel return line. I also got some connectors I will need make a new hardness for the Lexus ECU. I should just need to read MAF, coolant temp, and AC.

Does anyone have the part number for the connector pins used for the ECU and sensors? I am going to repin everything and make my own cables. I used these for my FRS I assume they are the same or similar ■[TE]025 type 0.64III series F terminal non-waterproofing /F025-AMP3-035056 - hi-1000ec.com.

When I was at the junk yard I was also looking for a Volvo electric power steering pump as they seem to be an easy one to use. Unfortunately they had all been taken already. I was also looking at one of these ELECTRIC POWER STEERING PUMP TRW. DRIFT RALLY WRC DRIFTING RALLIES RACING SPORT | eBay. If anyone has any experience with either please let me know.

 

[Kris OK]

converting it from the R154 external slave to the stock GM internal slave.

Are you going to use the stock GM hydraulic TOB or an aftermarket one like Tilton? I think I’m going to go twin disk clutch since I have my engine out. The Tilton looks like it’ll bolt right up to the AR5 front bearing retainer to me.

Have you tried to find an electric steering rack? Would save you from having any electric pump - hydraulic lines at all. I don’t know what would fit the IS, though. Would probably be total custom job, but not terrible considering what you’ve accomplished so far.