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How was that custom ecu mount made? 3D print?
Posts by Hodgdon Extreme
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Good call on resizing the big ends of the rods with the ARP bolts. Many people don't realize how different bolts apply different stress to the joint, and will distort the geometry differently.
Why stock replacement valve springs? Zero interest in a bigger cam?
Why stock replacement valve springs? Zero interest in a bigger cam?
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I know nothing about drifting, but I'd guess a 3200lb car with 350whp and V8 torque would have no issue keeping the tires spinning!
If/when the time comes for more power, look thru Richard Holdener's videos on Youtube. He's tested just about everything for LS engines, very down to earth, and NOT trying to pitch you on fancy high dollar equipment.
If/when the time comes for more power, look thru Richard Holdener's videos on Youtube. He's tested just about everything for LS engines, very down to earth, and NOT trying to pitch you on fancy high dollar equipment.
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Before using a tap to clean out threads, consider fashioning a tool out of an old head bolt:
Use a cut-off wheel on a die grinder or dremel to cut a lengthwise slit (or two) across the threads of the old bolt. Kinda like turning a bolt into a tap... Obviously this tool can't create new threads, but it does a good job of scraping the gunk out of a tapped hole. This tool is also much less likely to cut into your existing threads, which you do not want to lose (especially in aluminum).
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Your cut-off wheel skillz are strong! Looks good, but maybe make the flutes (the slits) longer. But I'm surprised it didn't work that well for you. I've had great luck with this technique.
Not much junk can fit into the slit, so it'll get packed and then not work anymore - so deep/long flutes are an advantage. Also, remove it frequently to clean out the flutes.
Adding a solvent like you mentioned is also good idea.
Not only do you need a somewhat odd tap - but i'll also need to be a LONG one, which is more uncommon. Also, I suspect you'd want it to be a bottoming tap, rather than a plug tap.
Hope attempt 2 works better for you! 🤞
Not much junk can fit into the slit, so it'll get packed and then not work anymore - so deep/long flutes are an advantage. Also, remove it frequently to clean out the flutes.
Adding a solvent like you mentioned is also good idea.
Not only do you need a somewhat odd tap - but i'll also need to be a LONG one, which is more uncommon. Also, I suspect you'd want it to be a bottoming tap, rather than a plug tap.
Hope attempt 2 works better for you! 🤞
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Also, when you get to the point where you're torquing up those ARP bolts... Be sure to follow the directions regarding where to put the molybdenum lube - and where to avoid putting it.
For reasons that make zero sense to me, lubrication in the wrong place on the washer/bolthead can really mess things up. My (very competent) buddy disregarded those directions and IIRC, snapped a bolt off in his LS3. ARP was super nice about it and replaced it - but scolded him on not following the directions. He did it right the next time an no problems.
Why this matters is an engineering puzzle to me and my buddy - but ARP is awesome and knows their stuff; so it was stupid to disregard...
For reasons that make zero sense to me, lubrication in the wrong place on the washer/bolthead can really mess things up. My (very competent) buddy disregarded those directions and IIRC, snapped a bolt off in his LS3. ARP was super nice about it and replaced it - but scolded him on not following the directions. He did it right the next time an no problems.
Why this matters is an engineering puzzle to me and my buddy - but ARP is awesome and knows their stuff; so it was stupid to disregard...
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That does make total sense. Not to toot my own horn (seriously), but I'm an engineer and I'm familiar with these concepts.
However, if I'm remembering my buddy's issue correctly - I'm pretty sure the ARP directions are to NOT lube between the hardened washer and the cylinder head - ONLY lube between the bolt's integrated washer/flange and the washer itself; which would introduce what you are calling an "unknown source of friction" between the washer and cylinder head.
I'm fully on board with your explanation and totally agree, but if I understood my (mech engineer) buddy's issue correctly - ARP would be relying on a less-repeatable and higher-friction interface to set clamp load...which doesn't make sense to me.
PS: I've got a rod bolt stretch gage in my toolbox - it's the only way to torque critical fasteners when you've got access to both ends!
However, if I'm remembering my buddy's issue correctly - I'm pretty sure the ARP directions are to NOT lube between the hardened washer and the cylinder head - ONLY lube between the bolt's integrated washer/flange and the washer itself; which would introduce what you are calling an "unknown source of friction" between the washer and cylinder head.
I'm fully on board with your explanation and totally agree, but if I understood my (mech engineer) buddy's issue correctly - ARP would be relying on a less-repeatable and higher-friction interface to set clamp load...which doesn't make sense to me.
PS: I've got a rod bolt stretch gage in my toolbox - it's the only way to torque critical fasteners when you've got access to both ends!
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Thanks for clarifying the actual ARP instructions. I still do not understand why ARP wouldn't want you to lubricate the head/washer to reduce that friction. Of course, that might decrease the recommended amount of torque to achieve the prescribed clamp load - but you'd think it would be a more consistent approach.
Admittedly, I've not installed a ARP bolts in a good number of years - but back in the mid 2000s, when I was doing it all the time, ARP recommended lubing the threads, the spotface in the head for the washer, the washer, and the underside of the bolthead itself. As you mentioned, it can be eye-opening to see the wild differences in clamp load caused by different lubes, materials, surface finishes, etc. Their are volumes of engineering data on fasteners and I'm not a fastener engineer (though I did recently design and build blow-bolt fasteners for the new SLS program!) so I'll totally rely on ARPs recommendations.
Sorry to derail your thread, I hope this excursion has at least been interesting!
Admittedly, I've not installed a ARP bolts in a good number of years - but back in the mid 2000s, when I was doing it all the time, ARP recommended lubing the threads, the spotface in the head for the washer, the washer, and the underside of the bolthead itself. As you mentioned, it can be eye-opening to see the wild differences in clamp load caused by different lubes, materials, surface finishes, etc. Their are volumes of engineering data on fasteners and I'm not a fastener engineer (though I did recently design and build blow-bolt fasteners for the new SLS program!) so I'll totally rely on ARPs recommendations.
Sorry to derail your thread, I hope this excursion has at least been interesting!
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It's been my experience that aftermarket race parts almost always need finagling to get them how they need to be. The key to success is knowing how it should be - and having ability to get it that way...
I have the luxury of having a 5' x 5', 4" thick steel workbench that is solid. I prolly woulda tried clamps and hammer-forming the gasket surface of the pan to be flat. I've had success with that in the past, including when I deformed the steel lower pan when I removed it from my 2J.
Keep up the good work!
I have the luxury of having a 5' x 5', 4" thick steel workbench that is solid. I prolly woulda tried clamps and hammer-forming the gasket surface of the pan to be flat. I've had success with that in the past, including when I deformed the steel lower pan when I removed it from my 2J.
Keep up the good work!
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When people see the bench, they wonder how TF it got put there. It wasn't hard. It was loaded on a trailer via a bobcat. Trailer backed into the shop, under the hoist. Hoist arms swung out so it could pick the bench up off the trailer. Trailer driven out. Bench lowered down onto skates. Bench skated into place. Bench jacked up off skates. Skates removed, Bench lowered.
It really is a luxury to have a workbench so solid. It's as if it's simply one with the earth. It also has a mega Wilton 600S vise on one corner.
Best part is I snagged the whole thing off craigslist for $700.
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Looks great, man.
FWIW, the LS1 intake manifold is basically the worst LS manifold ever (except for the FWD LS4 manifold)... Obviously an easy swap later, but the FAST manifold is a solid improvement.
FWIW, the LS1 intake manifold is basically the worst LS manifold ever (except for the FWD LS4 manifold)... Obviously an easy swap later, but the FAST manifold is a solid improvement.
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The LS6 manifold is a lot better than the LS1. Anyway, the world's your oyster with the LS platform. I think 350hp/350lbft oughtta do just dandy for a drift car, regardless...
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Thanks for posting the STP file for that hardline clip.
Already 50 downloads? !?
Don't suppose you can share a sldprt file I'd be able to easily modify?
The ones on my firewall for brake lines mostly broke when I installed my new ABS lines.
Already 50 downloads? !?
Don't suppose you can share a sldprt file I'd be able to easily modify?
The ones on my firewall for brake lines mostly broke when I installed my new ABS lines.
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Looking good, man! A lot of nice work. It's always fascinating to see how other people attack the same or similar problems... Back in college, I did Formula SAE and by far the best part of the whole process was going to competition and checking out how other teams approached the project. Some teams either had a CNC shop hookup or tons of money - so they designed all kinds of fancy 3d-profiled billet parts. Other teams (like ours) had neither, so we designed our parts to be made on manual mill/lathe - or be fabricated. Some teams were really into composites. The rules were so open, it left room for all kinds of innovations and interesting ways to skin the cat. Always neat to check it out.
I was hemming and hawing over how to relocate my ABS pump. I really didn't want to use flexible lines, but I didn't think I could re-bend the original hard lines and have them come out looking nice... and I was unwilling to put in the effort that was going to be required to bend up a set of custom hard lines from scratch... I could use some firewall brake line clips like you made (and I have a buddy with a 3D printer...so maybe hook a brother up???)
Last, are those the Dedicated Motorsports LS-swap headers? Are they just not quite right or is there something unique about your installation that makes them not work just so?
I was hemming and hawing over how to relocate my ABS pump. I really didn't want to use flexible lines, but I didn't think I could re-bend the original hard lines and have them come out looking nice... and I was unwilling to put in the effort that was going to be required to bend up a set of custom hard lines from scratch... I could use some firewall brake line clips like you made (and I have a buddy with a 3D printer...so maybe hook a brother up???)
Last, are those the Dedicated Motorsports LS-swap headers? Are they just not quite right or is there something unique about your installation that makes them not work just so?
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My Walbro 255 was maxed out @ 470whp @ 0.7 Lambda @ ~65psi head on E40 fuel. It'll make well over 500whp for a naturally aspirated engine on pump gas.
Here is a link to some flow testing Real Street did on various pumps at various pressures: https://www.realstreetperformance.com/blog/fuel-pump-test-2018-real-street-performance/#results
I have a thread about fitting one of the big Walbro 450/525 pumps into the stock fuel pump hanger assemblies if you need more flow yet.
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The Walbro GSS342 (255LPH high pressure) was in my car for like 15 years with no issues. I think it'd be more than enough for your application. They are a direct fit into the fuel pump hanger assembly, and they cost about $90.
Edit: the insulation was (somewhat) burned off the conductors of my fuel pump power wires inside the tank, so I'd recommend upgrading them to at least 14awg. The OEM chassis power wiring and OEM relays held up fine.
Edit 2: See my Walbro 450/525 thread for more info, but the OEM fuel pump relay only serves to switch between full voltage and partial voltage to the pump. I suspect you'd probably want to delete both.
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Haven't commented in a while, but I've been paying attention. Great work, as always!
You are clearly a DIY'er that likes to conjure up your own parts, but just in case you wanna just buy a turnkey part - Radium Engineering has nice little venturi jet pump for $90 that's ready to go:
Oh, and +1 to Pnut's comment about not getting hung up on the filter air inlet arrangement. Just put a cone filter and pipe on there and get this thing up and running! Hammer out an improved and more svelte inlet later!
(I too get hung up on stuff like this and have to remind myself to not let "perfect" keep me from achieving "good" - especially when no bridges need to be burned to achieve "good")
You are clearly a DIY'er that likes to conjure up your own parts, but just in case you wanna just buy a turnkey part - Radium Engineering has nice little venturi jet pump for $90 that's ready to go:
Oh, and +1 to Pnut's comment about not getting hung up on the filter air inlet arrangement. Just put a cone filter and pipe on there and get this thing up and running! Hammer out an improved and more svelte inlet later!
(I too get hung up on stuff like this and have to remind myself to not let "perfect" keep me from achieving "good" - especially when no bridges need to be burned to achieve "good")
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Don't forget about fact that version 1.0 probably won't satisfy you, and you'll spend another 5-10 hours thinking about what you don't like about it, and how it could be better - and then spend another 5-10 hours making version 2.0...
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I recently investigated the fuel pump power situation on my turbo car, which had a Walbro 255hp in it for years and years. I believe (but I'm not certain) my fuel pump resistor circuit was still operational (which cuts voltage to the pump under certain conditions). Anyway, the power wiring from the relay and resistor to the pump seemed just fine. However, the power wire inside the tank had some of the insulation cooked off.
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Sounds very helpful; especially considering how old (and brittle) these cars are getting!
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