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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so I may have not searched everywhere on here to find my problem. My apologies in advance if the question I'm about to ask has been asked and fixed numerous times. So about 3 weeks ago I was driving home on the freeway when my car began to jerk and lose power (seemed like it turned off) I quickly exited the freeway and pulled over to a side street. Upon pulling over I noticed my check engine light was on and my Trac light was blinking. I disconnected the battery and let it sit for a min then hooked it back up and started the car up. Car started fine with no issues and I started driving home, about 10 mins before I got home my car just decided to shut off on me, once again luckily I was on a side street and pulled over. Decided to disconnect the battery again and try to reset it. To my surprise my car would not turn back on, it would crank but not turn over. after about 20mins of trying and trying to turn it on my battery died and ended up getting my car towed. So the next day a buddy of mine came to check my car out and try to see what was wrong with it. We both checked out all the fuses, grounds, and the maf, everything seemed to look good. We charged the battery up and tried to see if maybe it would magically turn on but no it just kept cranking. He then said that he thought it was the fuel pump since it seemed like it was getting no fuel. So then I decided to call another buddy of mine who works for toyota and he brought his OBD II scanner. To my horror the scanner would not connect to my ECU and he quickly said my issues where due to my ECU frying? which I still don't want to believe. Please guys any help I would appreciate. Maybe I missed checking something, I'm really hoping is not my ECU. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST! I am already beyond frustrated not being able to drive my baby :balling::balling:
 

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Is your 7.5A OBD fuse in the passenger kick panel good? Also fuses such as the 15A ECTS, 25A EFI, and all other fuses? Battery connections tight and clean? Also to properly diagnose this, was the security LED flashing when the car wouldn't start(but allowed you to crank), yes/no? You should have power at the dlc3(obd) port supplied by 7.5A Dome(between violet and brown wires).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is your 7.5A OBD fuse in the passenger kick panel good? Also fuses such as the 15A ECTS, 25A EFI, and all other fuses? Battery connections tight and clean? Also to properly diagnose this, was the security LED flashing when the car wouldn't start(but allowed you to crank), yes/no? You should have power at the dlc3(obd) port supplied by 7.5A Dome(between violet and brown wires).
Yes checked all of the fuses you mentioned and they all seemed good when I checked them with the fuse tester. As far as my security led blinking when I stick my key in the ignition, it does seem to keep blinking when I try to crank it.
Is it possible that the immobilizer just died when I was driving? Thank you for your help.
 

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It sounds like your immobilizer isn't shutting off which is why you have no fuel. It could be an issue with the key, the key transponder ring behind the ignition cylinder or because you cannot connect to the ECU your problem may be similar to a issue a vendor had awhile ago. His +5v output to his DBW components were shorted causing the ECU to not work properly. Here's that thread.

http://my.is/forums/f115/2001-is300-wont-start-turns-over-strong-449100/
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It sounds like your immobilizer isn't shutting off which is why you have no fuel. It could be an issue with the key, the key transponder ring behind the ignition cylinder or because you cannot connect to the ECU your problem may be similar to a issue a vendor had awhile ago. His +5v output to his DBW components were shorted causing the ECU to not work properly. Here's that thread.

http://my.is/forums/f115/2001-is300-wont-start-turns-over-strong-449100/
Sorry for the late reply, been at work and was reading the thread whenever I had a chance. Interesting about how simple the fix was and how all the issues he had are my exact same issues! I won't have a chance to check these till this weekend. I will definately give a look into all that and hopefully it is the same problem and I can avoid taking my car to the shop and having my wallet destroyed. Is there anyway to find pics of the grounds he fixed? I'm not very car savy, but I am a quick learner and would love to fix this issue on my own. Thnx for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
jasonm4 ok so I did everything the previous person did in that thread and still no luck the car still won't start. Checked all the fuses cleaned all the grounds, cleaned the battery terminals, recharged the battery and tightened the battery posts. Now I noticed when I tried to unlock my car with the remote it took a while to unlock, and when I try and lock it, it makes a long beep.... Then it stops and the car won't lock. I changed the remote battery and it still does it. Also when I stick my key in the ignition the security led just blinks it won't go off. Thought I would mention the key I been using is not the OG key on the remote since it broke. But I still have the remote which is y my car had been starting before. Any thoughts or ideas? Could it be my ECU is fried since it won't connect to the OBDII ?
 

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You've went over all the sensor V+ and signal returns to verify it's not a wiring issue that would prevent the ecu from turning on? The immobilizer is still not recognizing your key, so I'd try another if possible. Verify you to have power and ground pins at the OBD2 port as well as the OBD fuse. I'm guessing your car cranks but doesn't start and it's because either the ECU is in fact bad or one of the outputs, inputs or supplied voltage is grounded or shorted. What do the cluster lights do? Same as before? Usually when the ECU is truly bad the malfunction indicators all stay lit or none(acts abnormal).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You've went over all the sensor V+ and signal returns to verify it's not a wiring issue that would prevent the ecu from turning on? The immobilizer is still not recognizing your key, so I'd try another if possible. Verify you to have power and ground pins at the OBD2 port as well as the OBD fuse. I'm guessing your car cranks but doesn't start and it's because either the ECU is in fact bad or one of the outputs, inputs or supplied voltage is grounded or shorted. What do the cluster lights do? Same as before? Usually when the ECU is truly bad the malfunction indicators all stay lit or none(acts abnormal).
I haven't looked at the power and ground pins to the ecu, I will look at that his weekend. If it is in fact one if the pins that is grounded or shorted, how do I go about fixing the issue? The cluster looks like it's normal, it's not giving me a cel. At first before the issue happened my check engine and trac light both went on at the same time. Now that I have the car in the on position my oil pressure light and tail lights light is on along with the trac. Also my outside temperature doesn't show it just comes out as "E"
 

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The Igniter... look it up I had the same issue a while ago... I'm assuming my response is way to late anyway but for anyone else with this issue.

They are super expensive if you buy new but you can buy them on ebay for 20 - 50 bucks. A store in my home town was going to charge me $945 for just the part.

Hope this helps... theres 2 different part numbers for the same igniter so I hope that helps too.

Part #'s : DH61 & DS61 Igniter.
 

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If you are worried about the ECU being fried you should check on the OBD2 connector to see if you are having any communication across the CAN Bus Line. Check for battery voltage on pin 16 of the OBD2 connector, and check for ground on pin 4, then you should look for any activity across your CAN H line and CAN L line. These are pins 6 and 15, they are right on top of one and other, the voltages should be around 4.7 on CAN H and 4.6-4.5 and the CAN L line. If you have voltage here then you have some sort of communication and I would find it very unlikely that the ECU is fried.
 

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I had the exact same issue on my 2000 UZJ-100 Land Cruiser. Truck wouldn't start, was not a battery or starter motor issue as it was cranking like a champ. ODB-2 reader wouldn't read. All related fuses were good, and I checked a fair few of them. Thought this would be a serious problem, tried to start without the ODB-2 reader (which I leave generally attached). In the end, however, it seemed like a loose connection was the issue, and it was resolved by jiggling things around (seriously). Once the ODB-2 reader was readable, the truck started once again, and the issue has not repeated itself.
 
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