|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-11-2015 01:30 AM|
|12-10-2015 06:29 PM|
I don't mean launch like driving away normally from a light where you are trying to be nice to your passengers. I mean revving at 3000-4000 and trying to get out of the 'hole' as fast as possible by using your clutch to balance available traction. As far as your clutch is concerned, its not creating as much heat when it's directly coupled to the motor. If you pop it, you might hook and bog until revs come up, or tires might just break loose. It's less heat for your clutch but usually slower and still harder on your driveline (assuming its ok unless you shatter the clutch disc material from too high rpm).
Normally fastest launch would be a tiny bit of slip that keeps revs on engine up, and prevents shock to drivetrain and tires from breaking loose. It's better for your drivetrain, but bad for the life of the clutch. It's a trade-off and you have to pick your poison.
I've shattered (was worse with nitrous car as NOS comes on like a sledge hammer), glazed, exceeded torque capacity, or just simply worn out a number of clutches in my time. It's usually power related for me, as I don't have issues driving for years on near stock cars... except my talon... I replaced a new 'performance' clutch that lasted maybe 5000miles and it only had two-three lame runs at the track.
As a side, the clutch damper acts kind of as a delay on clutch release. If you like more aggressive driving, I think it makes it harder to modulate and even make the situation worse. A CDD would be a good investment on your next clutch.
|12-10-2015 02:50 PM|
|12-10-2015 01:37 PM|
Too much heat into the friction material can melt some compounds and produce a shiny/crystallized surface on the clutch disc. It would result in less coefficient of friction after it's glazed.
Normally would be more a result of it being slipped. i.e. lend the car to a friend/wife/gf so they can learn to drive standard and they never quite let the clutch out or in, or launching at lights but rather than dropping the clutch, you let it out ever so slightly slower in order to keep revs up but not spin tires as much.
|12-10-2015 01:14 PM|
|12-08-2015 11:29 PM|
It's too early to point fingers until you get the clutch out and see the cause of failure. Maybe they didn't match the clutch disc to the flywheel (sprung vs. Unsprung), or it wasn't seating properly, or the disc became glazed the one time you used it hard, or your rear main seal started leaking fluid on the disc, or maybe it simply was the wrong choice for your driving style etc. Etc.
The only thing I dont like is stating that a 6 puck racing disc is only one meant to be shifted at redline as its dumb IMO. At bare minimum the clutch better be designed to be shifted at redline. Ive used heavy pressure plates on stock discs on other cars that were severly bagged and bounced off the rev limit for years with no issues.
Not sure what exact combo you went with, but some aftermarket clutches don't seem to hold up as well as stock. The lighter ACT plates used to be known to be pretty weak sauce.
|12-08-2015 08:20 PM|
|IS_416||Sorry but I would agree with them.. As a mechanic myself we never guarantee clutch work especially not after a year ... Driving habits are the only reason a clutch would go and after a year of it finally gave up.. If there was an initial problem or premature clutch wear or defect it would have been evident far earlier than the 1 year mark...|
|12-08-2015 07:42 PM|
As per request