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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-01-2016 06:55 PM
zzzz
multiple codes

I'm throwing the following codes:

P0300 - random misfire
P0303 - misfire in cylinder 3
P0110 - IAT circuit Malfunction
P0120 - throttle position sensor/switch "A" malfunction
P0335 - crankshaft position sensor "A" circuit malfunction
P1780 - park neutral position switch malfunction
P0420 - catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1

what I'm wondering is if they're connected? why this many codes with 0 symptoms. Car runs just fine.
10-05-2015 07:18 PM
Syrii
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonm4 View Post
Do your fans run all the time or only cycle after the car has fully warmed up? They shouldn't come on until the coolant gauge needle reads a hair above horizontal (203F). If not, then it's likely the thermostat. That DTC indicates the car has not reached operating temperature after x amount of time. The thermostat opens around 176-183F and can be tested using a pot of hot water and a thermometer as the FSM explains. Valve opening should also be about 8.5mm at 203F. Typically it's easier and cheap just to replace it and go from there because the thermostat needs removed to test it.
thanks for the response, i ended up replacing both however, i mean it was all opened anyway right?. my fans would turn on as the car did and stay on btw. but run as you mentioned properly now.

edit: sorry for the late response, super busy.
09-12-2015 08:22 PM
jasonm4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrii View Post
recently got a CTL with flashing TRAC, I hooked up my scanner and got a P0128 code (Coolant Thermostat), I was wondering which is more common to need replacement? my fans are working, coolant pressure is good and flowing. Should i just replace the thermostat or is there a way i could test it without taking it apart, not sure how to do that without making a coolant mess.
Do your fans run all the time or only cycle after the car has fully warmed up? They shouldn't come on until the coolant gauge needle reads a hair above horizontal (203F). If not, then it's likely the thermostat. That DTC indicates the car has not reached operating temperature after x amount of time. The thermostat opens around 176-183F and can be tested using a pot of hot water and a thermometer as the FSM explains. Valve opening should also be about 8.5mm at 203F. Typically it's easier and cheap just to replace it and go from there because the thermostat needs removed to test it.
08-27-2015 07:04 PM
Syrii recently got a CTL with flashing TRAC, I hooked up my scanner and got a P0128 code (Coolant Thermostat), I was wondering which is more common to need replacement? my fans are working, coolant pressure is good and flowing. Should i just replace the thermostat or is there a way i could test it without taking it apart, not sure how to do that without making a coolant mess.
08-26-2015 08:41 PM
harman
Quote:
Originally Posted by PANIC!!! View Post
I just did a quick search and someone who had this code just had looses battery terminals. Did you check that? Did you try to search for P0100 on the forums? That the best starting point for me. I would read all the thread talking about the code, then go from there.
ill check my battery and thanks for the help
08-26-2015 01:46 PM
PANIC!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by harman View Post
I I have a cel code p0100 and it's been there for a couple of months since I bought the car I've clean the maf sensor and it fixed itslef for 2 weeks and now I'm getting the same problem. last night I was driving it and turned off on me at the lights and when I got home I checked the code and it said maf p0100. Does this mean I need a new maf??
I just did a quick search and someone who had this code just had looses battery terminals. Did you check that? Did you try to search for P0100 on the forums? That the best starting point for me. I would read all the thread talking about the code, then go from there.
08-26-2015 10:50 AM
harman I I have a cel code p0100 and it's been there for a couple of months since I bought the car I've clean the maf sensor and it fixed itslef for 2 weeks and now I'm getting the same problem. last night I was driving it and turned off on me at the lights and when I got home I checked the code and it said maf p0100. Does this mean I need a new maf??
08-10-2015 06:03 PM
da_reeseboy I am trying to help my brother pass emissions here in Georgia, but I can't figure out how to fix his DTC for the life of me. He's getting:

P0560 System Voltage Malfunction

Does anyone here know any possible sources for this generic code? The car runs great.
07-28-2015 11:38 PM
andiesel Alright, and you said you had them both replaced because you had codes for either bank? You also stated that it comes and goes. It is very possible that it is because you have an induction (somewhere after MAF) leak somewhere. It may also be low fuel pressure like a clogged fuel filter; when is the last time that was replaced? An injector could also be at fault. Do you know if you are running rich or lean?
The O2 sensors themselves have been ruled out, and since both are throwing codes then its safe to assume they are reading accurately. You are then left with an issue that is either induction, Fuel Pressure, or Injector. If you could throw a scanner on there and look at the freeze frame data then that would help tremendously (02S Voltage of 0.5V or greater is rich, and 0.4V or below is lean). So again, you need to find out whether it is rich or lean.
07-28-2015 10:59 PM
is300_lextasy
Quote:
Originally Posted by andiesel View Post
Hey, when you had the O2 sensors replaced, did the codes go away for a while then come back? Come back shortly after? Never went away?
The check engine stayed off for about a week. I took the car from illinois to florida and as soon as i got back to chicago the check engine turned on. I was driving calmly the whole ride. But now it comes and goes. Stays on for a week or so then goes off. It keeps doing it.
07-28-2015 07:10 PM
andiesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonezone1 View Post
Hey whats up I got a 2001 Lexus is300 180km (canadian car) all stock ....
I am getting 4 codes in total from my obd scanner
Codes :
P0171 x2
P0174 x2
The rpm get stuck at 4000 and have to really push the accelerator to pass that

Also the exhaust is throughing out really hot air like extremely hot ...the muffler tip is hot as well

When I try to push the car I also hear whistle noise at higher rpm

If anyone had a similar problem please help ...

Let me know if u require more info
You are running lean. You could have a leak in the intake or exhaust. Since you hear a whistle, I would start there. I recommend you don't push the car hard. A lean mixture will cause you to run very hot and could over-heat and damage engine components.
07-28-2015 06:57 PM
andiesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by is300_lextasy View Post
I had my O2 sensors replaced last year because I thought that was the problem but I still get P0133 Oxygen Sensor Slow Circuit Response Bank 1 sensor 1. and P0153 02 Sensor circuit slow response Bank 2 sensor 1. This issue is kicking my ass. Is it possible i have a leak somewhere? vacuum or exhaust. And i was wondering if this can be caused by spark plugs? I haven't had them changed and I have 150k miles. The shop was telling me go reflash my ecu at the dealer? Im kinda lost.

I had one code that recently popped up ill post the code up asap but it had to do with the throttle pedal position

Plz help me out thx
Hey, when you had the O2 sensors replaced, did the codes go away for a while then come back? Come back shortly after? Never went away?
07-20-2015 04:55 AM
Lonezone1 Hey whats up I got a 2001 Lexus is300 180km (canadian car) all stock ....
I am getting 4 codes in total from my obd scanner
Codes :
P0171 x2
P0174 x2
The rpm get stuck at 4000 and have to really push the accelerator to pass that

Also the exhaust is throughing out really hot air like extremely hot ...the muffler tip is hot as well

When I try to push the car I also hear whistle noise at higher rpm

If anyone had a similar problem please help ...

Let me know if u require more info
04-02-2015 10:25 AM
is300_lextasy
03 is300 3 codes

I had my O2 sensors replaced last year because I thought that was the problem but I still get P0133 Oxygen Sensor Slow Circuit Response Bank 1 sensor 1. and P0153 02 Sensor circuit slow response Bank 2 sensor 1. This issue is kicking my ass. Is it possible i have a leak somewhere? vacuum or exhaust. And i was wondering if this can be caused by spark plugs? I haven't had them changed and I have 150k miles. The shop was telling me go reflash my ecu at the dealer? Im kinda lost.

I had one code that recently popped up ill post the code up asap but it had to do with the throttle pedal position

Plz help me out thx
11-16-2014 05:22 PM
jasonm4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnz66 View Post
I have the following codes on my is 300 2001
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306
P1345
P1349
Rough idle sometimes between 700-2000 rpms that's it
You are having a problem with your oil control valve which controls the timing(VVTi), hence why you have all misfire DTC's (P0300-P0306). When I see P1345(Camshaft sensor/timing) and P1349(VVTi malfunction) then it most usually means the oil control valve is not shifting right. This can happen even more with conventional cheap dino oil. There's a tiny replaceable/cleanable mesh screen that can become clogged. Please search and see my posts using just "OCV jasonm4" in the rectangular search box above and you'll see many threads that will give you the directions to check while the car is running and how to repair or replace it, which is easy. I would be willing to bet once the spool shifts freely in your OCV then the misfire and cam codes will go away.
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