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Thread: *DIY* P0161 O2 sensor B2 S2 change (pics) Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-15-2014 08:12 PM
jasonm4
Quote:
Originally Posted by amitkc View Post
Well, I had a "new" performance shop i was trying a couple of months ago do the sensor replacement for me, and it cost me 100 bucks, they also cleaned up a couple of other things under the car while they had it up.

I'm not too proud to say that I deferred to someone else; but it's great to see that CEL no longer lit. Prior to having it fixed, I did clear the CEL using the Torque Pro App coupled with a BT OBD2 reader a few times, but it came back on every re-start!

Trying to now figure out if i should use the IS as a DD since I'm considering a new larger family vehicle, or just mess with it and turn it into a track day toy....i do love driving it to this day and would hate to have it sit around if I don't get time to go to the track..thoughts?
That's up to you but I wouldn't waver it because you had an O2 go bad. I had to buy a different car that was bigger because my family got bigge, personally.
You had a heater circuit go bad, they can go bad anytime from new out of the box. Usually when they start to fail they will set the MIL and it usually clears itself, but after awhile it fails permanently and the DTC stays set as well as the CEL. This happened exactly to me for B1S2 and B2S2 and I've never had a problem after replacing them nor do I think you'll have any more issues will that.
06-15-2014 07:40 PM
amitkc
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonm4 View Post
Thanks man, yea if you did live closer I'd do it in 15 minutes or so lol.

Thanks for the rep! Back at ya.
Well, I had a "new" performance shop i was trying a couple of months ago do the sensor replacement for me, and it cost me 100 bucks, they also cleaned up a couple of other things under the car while they had it up.

I'm not too proud to say that I deferred to someone else; but it's great to see that CEL no longer lit. Prior to having it fixed, I did clear the CEL using the Torque Pro App coupled with a BT OBD2 reader a few times, but it came back on every re-start!

Trying to now figure out if i should use the IS as a DD since I'm considering a new larger family vehicle, or just mess with it and turn it into a track day toy....i do love driving it to this day and would hate to have it sit around if I don't get time to go to the track..thoughts?
06-14-2014 12:46 PM
Naperguy Thanks for the great instructions. I bought a Denso replacement sensor from Rock Auto for $48 plus a OS socket for $16. Ordered on Wed & received on Fri. BTW, I think it is much easier to remove the seat since it only takes about 5 minutes. Entire replacement took less than 2 hours and i was VERY slow and methodical. Thanks again for the great writeup.
07-05-2013 09:06 AM
jasonm4 Thanks man, yea if you did live closer I'd do it in 15 minutes or so lol.

Thanks for the rep! Back at ya.
07-05-2013 09:02 AM
amitkc
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonm4 View Post
1. It's not unsafe one bit to have P0161 and it will not effect performance at all. Since B2S2 only checks catalyst efficiency it does not effect the car one bit except for giving you a CEL on your dash. Change it when you can, no worries. If it was a pre cat sensor it would obviously be different as those measure A/F. It's much better to have a P0161 heater code than a P0420/P0430 cat efficiency code, so that's good we know the sensor is truly bad and there isn't possible other variables. This sensor can definitely wait till next month to be changed. But just keep in mind if you throw any additional codes, you won't know unless you're misfiring and it's flashing. The CEL will remain lit until you reset it. Sometimes heater codes clear via battery disconnect for awhile but they always come back until they finally fault. Heaters are only used on warm startups to simulate a hot cat.

2. The sensor is on the Y pipe cat so you will have to get the car raised alittle. You don't necessarily have to remove the front seat, just move it forward and up all the way. Lift up the carpet patch(you'll see it) and you'll see the connector. Cut the old wire off the bad B2S2 and you can use that wire to pull in the new sensor into the cabin. If you decide to do it yourself and want to remove the seat for more room, make sure you disconnect the battery and wait at least 90 seconds before disconnecting the air bag connector. I was able to replace mine a number of years ago without removing the seat. As far as a replacement, I'd go with a Denso PNP for $67 or get their universal for $43 and it would need spliced in. Much better pricing, direct from Denso and extremely reputable. I would definitely not use a Bosch oxygen sensor if it was given to me for free, they're garbage, just like their plugs.

Denso OE Identical Automotive Replacement Parts - In Stock for Your Tune-Up!

3. I would say 2 hours at the very maximum. Really it might only be an half hour to hour depending on the shop and how easy the old one comes out(a good shop will heat the bung up). I believe Lexus calls for 1.5 hrs but i'd need to double check that. I replaced mine in about 45 minutes while having a few beers here and there lol. I would get some PB Blaster or a penetrating lubricant and give the threads of that sensor a quick spray every now and then, especially before you're about to remove it(let it sit for a bit).

I also found a diy with actual pics. This one shows removal of the seat and using a universal O2 that is spliced in. But again, this job can be done without removing the seat. https://my.is/forums/f67/is300-p0161-...cement-342690/
Hope this helps. You can run with a bad B2S2 as long as you like really, but if you're like me I really hate seeing that CEL on. Anything I missed man? Sorry for the huge reply.
And this is WHY I came back to the is300 site without hesitation; best advice, bar none. Jason, thank you for all your advice, and I wish you did live closer, I'd take you up on the fix help!

It's been a while since I gave our rep on here.. how does it work in this iteration of the website? I seem to be bumbling around trying to give you some much deserved rep!
07-04-2013 11:51 AM
jasonm4
Quote:
Originally Posted by amitkc View Post
My 01 IS300 just threw the P0161 CEL code yesterday, and I had it read this morning, and came right back here to get smart on it. I've read and re-read almost all the threads on this topic, including the DIY and the sim delete, pnp v/s Bosch splice in , etc.

A couple of simple questions pertaining to this whole effort:

1. How safe/unsafe is it to continue to drive with a failed Bank 2 Sensor 2? My code is for the heater circuit (161). I do intend to fix this issue, but how pressing is it? can I drive the car for a couple of weeks without damaging anything? I'm pressed for time right now and would prefer to do this next month.

2. IT sounds like no matter what,you need to be able to access the sensor from below the car. If I don't have a means of getting this on a ramp, should I just have it done professionally, or can this be achieved from inside the car, without needing to raise it at all?--> doesn't seem possible to me given the location of the O2 sensor, but still thought I'd ask.

3. IF I do get it done professionally, is 2 hours of labor sufficient? I need to know that I'm not getting screwed over by a shop on this.

I'm not very comfortable messing around with the electronics in the car, and aside from changing the air filters, replacing a blown fuse here and there, and putting in a Joe Z intake pipe, I havent really done anything to to the car and that suits me fine.

All the help from this awesome community is appreciated; TIA from an old-time from the is300.net days !!!
1. It's not unsafe one bit to have P0161 and it will not effect performance at all. Since B2S2 only checks catalyst efficiency it does not effect the car one bit except for giving you a CEL on your dash. Change it when you can, no worries. If it was a pre cat sensor it would obviously be different as those measure A/F. It's much better to have a P0161 heater code than a P0420/P0430 cat efficiency code, so that's good we know the sensor is truly bad and there isn't possible other variables. This sensor can definitely wait till next month to be changed. But just keep in mind if you throw any additional codes, you won't know unless you're misfiring and it's flashing. The CEL will remain lit until you reset it. Sometimes heater codes clear via battery disconnect for awhile but they always come back until they finally fault. Heaters are only used on warm startups to simulate a hot cat.

2. The sensor is on the Y pipe cat so you will have to get the car raised alittle. You don't necessarily have to remove the front seat, just move it forward and up all the way. Lift up the carpet patch(you'll see it) and you'll see the connector. Cut the old wire off the bad B2S2 and you can use that wire to pull in the new sensor into the cabin. If you decide to do it yourself and want to remove the seat for more room, make sure you disconnect the battery and wait at least 90 seconds before disconnecting the air bag connector. I was able to replace mine a number of years ago without removing the seat. As far as a replacement, I'd go with a Denso PNP for $67 or get their universal for $43 and it would need spliced in. Much better pricing, direct from Denso and extremely reputable. I would definitely not use a Bosch oxygen sensor if it was given to me for free, they're garbage, just like their plugs.

http://www.densoproducts.com/Den-Aut...Metal=Zirconia

3. I would say 2 hours at the very maximum. Really it might only be an half hour to hour depending on the shop and how easy the old one comes out(a good shop will heat the bung up). I believe Lexus calls for 1.5 hrs but i'd need to double check that. I replaced mine in about 45 minutes while having a few beers here and there lol. I would get some PB Blaster or a penetrating lubricant and give the threads of that sensor a quick spray every now and then, especially before you're about to remove it(let it sit for a bit).

I also found a diy with actual pics. This one shows removal of the seat and using a universal O2 that is spliced in. But again, this job can be done without removing the seat. https://my.is/forums/f67/is300-p0161-...cement-342690/
Hope this helps. You can run with a bad B2S2 as long as you like really, but if you're like me I really hate seeing that CEL on. Anything I missed man? Sorry for the huge reply.
07-04-2013 11:37 AM
amitkc My 01 IS300 just threw the P0161 CEL code yesterday, and I had it read this morning, and came right back here to get smart on it. I've read and re-read almost all the threads on this topic, including the DIY and the sim delete, pnp v/s Bosch splice in , etc.

A couple of simple questions pertaining to this whole effort:

1. How safe/unsafe is it to continue to drive with a failed Bank 2 Sensor 2? My code is for the heater circuit (161). I do intend to fix this issue, but how pressing is it? can I drive the car for a couple of weeks without damaging anything? I'm pressed for time right now and would prefer to do this next month.

2. IT sounds like no matter what,you need to be able to access the sensor from below the car. If I don't have a means of getting this on a ramp, should I just have it done professionally, or can this be achieved from inside the car, without needing to raise it at all?--> doesn't seem possible to me given the location of the O2 sensor, but still thought I'd ask.

3. IF I do get it done professionally, is 2 hours of labor sufficient? I need to know that I'm not getting screwed over by a shop on this.

I'm not very comfortable messing around with the electronics in the car, and aside from changing the air filters, replacing a blown fuse here and there, and putting in a Joe Z intake pipe, I havent really done anything to to the car and that suits me fine.

All the help from this awesome community is appreciated; TIA from an old-time from the is300.net days !!!
05-11-2013 11:18 AM
jasonm4
Quote:
Originally Posted by P4ND4 View Post
Okay, about to install today since I haven't had the time to do so. But I've been having the the AC on does this effect it in any way or can worsen the bad o2 sensor for further issues just curious...

OBD Scan: P0057
Part # purchased: Denso 234-4517

http://i40.tinypic.com/90mxra.jpg
Not at all. This oxygen sensor only monitors the catalytic convertor and the heater circuit simply went bad and it needs replaced. If you had P0420/P0430 then it would be a different story. I've had this code too before, a new sensor fixed it and the AC has absolutely nothing to do with it.

Remember this can be done without removing the front seat but if you do, disconnect the battery and wait 5 minutes before you disconnect the airbag harness. You can get these sensors fairly cheap today.

By the way, heaters are only used on cold startups until operating temperature and closed loop operation is achieved.
05-11-2013 11:08 AM
P4ND4 Okay, about to install today since I haven't had the time to do so. But I've been having the the AC on does this effect it in any way or can worsen the bad o2 sensor for further issues just curious...

OBD Scan: P0057
Part # purchased: Denso 234-4517

05-03-2013 09:17 AM
jasonm4
Quote:
Originally Posted by P4ND4 View Post
Great! As always big Thanks Jason. About to pick up the sensor at my local Lexus dealer in a bit. OEM all the way!!!
No problem bud. Here's all the part numbers if you're looking for a direct plug n play. I agree, OEM is best for these.

Http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/8813/o2diagram16.jpg
05-03-2013 09:11 AM
P4ND4 Great! As always big Thanks Jason. About to pick up the sensor at my local Lexus dealer in a bit. OEM all the way!!!
05-03-2013 05:32 AM
jasonm4
Quote:
Originally Posted by P4ND4 View Post
Will this also apply to CODE: P0057? Just recently got hit with a CEL w/ track light flashing. From reading around that code is a faulty O2 sensor.
Yes.

P0057 is heater control circuit low and P0161 is heater circuit malfunction. Both codes indicate the heater within the oxygen sensor is pulling excess amperage, too little amperage or none(malfunction). Both also tell you it needs replaced. Always inspect the wiring though up to the connector.

Also i have edited the OP or diy. You actually do not need to remove the seat, moving it forward and up gives enough room. Or you can remove it but make sure you disconnect the battery and wait at least 90 seconds before touching any yellow SRS connector.
05-02-2013 10:40 PM
P4ND4 Will this also apply to CODE: P0057? Just recently got hit with a CEL w/ track light flashing. From reading around that code is a faulty O2 sensor.
04-27-2013 10:33 PM
Domingo
O2 sensor super easy to replace.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hanooo View Post
Thanks for a great post. I had the P0161 error code too on my 2001 IS300. I just replaced my Sensor last weekend with the Denso 234-4517 which I bought from amazon. It is the same exact length as the factory one and is a direct plug-in. I was able to do this without removing the passenger seat. Just have to move it forward and up as much as possible and then remove the air duct and squeeze your hands in there. Then I disconnected the sensor plug which took a little effort. Before I pulled out the plug from the below the car, I tied a kite cord around the actual sensor plug, then I pulled the wire from underneath the car. Once the cord was threaded through from the cabin to below the car, I removed the cord from the old sensor plug and tied it on the new sensor plug wire and was able to pull the plug portion up to the cabin guiding it under the carpet with the kite cord. Otherwise it would have been really difficult to do this without removing the passenger seat. So far I've driven for about $150 miles and still no CEL!
I also used this exact same part (Denso 234-4517, which was an exact match to the original part, ~$50 on Amazon) and replaced my B2S2 sensor this afternoon. I did buy an O2 sensor socket from Autozone for about $11 (seemed worth it). I wasn't sure that I would be able to pull the cord through the hole from the bottom because of the plug. So taking a little bit of everyone's advice here, I unbolted the car seat from the floor, pushed it towards the rear and tilted it back (without disconnecting the wiring for the seat). I found it was easier to get my right hand into the hole in the carpet, undo the plug, and pull the sensor through the hole from inside the car. It's also easy to disconnect the connector with the car seat tilted back. Then basically push the new sensor back through the hole in the floor, screw it in to the exhaust under the car, and then connect the connector in the cabin.

The whole thing was a lot easier that I thought it would be. My biggest fear was not being able to unscrew the original o2 sensor. But I used Liquid Wrench penetrating oil ($5) like everyone said, and it unscrewed with a little bit of force, but not too much. I was a sucker and paid $380 for my dealer to replace the B1S2 sensor 3 months ago, and that one is probably even easier to do (since you don't have to jack up the car, or unbolt the seat). I'll never pay to replace an O2 sensor again!
07-04-2011 04:39 PM
jasonm4 What are all of the exact codes? If they are all heater circuit DTC's then I would simply replace the sensor. You could do a pinout at the ECU and tap into an existing working sensor, but from my understanding you will still need to sim the signal circuit.
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