Consensus Solo II Setup? - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-21-2002, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I got the race alignment free from the Lexus dealer as part of the 1K service. I complained that the car was trammlining on a level at freeway speed. They reset the alignment to (as found on this site, thanks!):

-Zero toe front
-1/8 toe in rear
-1 deg negative camber all around

NOTE: These settings are much different than what the alignment was before. Rear toe was zero left, +1 right. Camber was zero front and rear. Trammlining disappeared after alignment, steering response quickened slightly.

Question about the tires. I'll be running the stock Potenzas with TRD Race Swaybars. I'm running 40psi ff/rr for the street, have tried up to 43psi ff/rr but didn't try anything close to auto-x maneuvers to test during break-in. What would you start with for race day tp's? I'm thinking 43-45 and adjust from there.

I'm still undecided about race class. If it's raining, I'll replace the stock rear sway and go D Stock. If dry, I'll take my chances in STX.
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-22-2002, 08:27 AM
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I would start with 42F 38R
What is trammiling? Why did you do negitive toe in rear and not front?
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-22-2002, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Trammlining is longitudinal instability on smooth, level surfaces at moderate speed. Sort of like the tires are catching big-truck created freeway grooves where there aren't any.

The factory front camber was -0.5, so I reset to 0.0 to increase turn-in, making directonal changes quicker. I did the opposite in the rear to keep it planted better when exiting tight turns under WOT. It worked really well with my MR2 Spyder in B Stock. Then I read in another thread that those were the same settings Derek Butts used on his IS last year. Good enough for me, I figured! You'd think the "looser" front would tend to increase trammlining, but the opposite happened making me think that the negative rear toe has more of an effect on that. The car tracks better now, and really digs into a turn. Much improved.

Thanks for the tp's, especially the ff/rr differential that works best. Info like that can take the better part of a day to figure out.
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-22-2002, 11:56 AM
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Toe out in front ussually increases turn in, toe in makes a car more stable at speeds, Toe in in rear make it more stable a speed, I can not remember what toe out in rear does. Ussually the more negative camber you have the better, however if you are driving the car every day, you will kill the inside of you tires with this set up, so it like everything, you have to come up with a comprimise.
<TABLE BORDER=0 CELLPADDING=0 CELLSPACING=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD COLSPAN=2><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD>&nbsp;</TD><TD><FONT SIZE=-1>
On 2002-02-22 12:33, Carcrazd wrote:
Trammlining is longitudinal instability on smooth, level surfaces at moderate speed. Sort of like the tires are catching big-truck created freeway grooves where there aren't any.

The factory front camber was -0.5, so I reset to 0.0 to increase turn-in, making directonal changes quicker. I did the opposite in the rear to keep it planted better when exiting tight turns under WOT. It worked really well with my MR2 Spyder in B Stock. Then I read in another thread that those were the same settings Derek Butts used on his IS last year. Good enough for me, I figured! You'd think the &quot;looser&quot; front would tend to increase trammlining, but the opposite happened making me think that the negative rear toe has more of an effect on that. The car tracks better now, and really digs into a turn. Much improved.

Thanks for the tp's, especially the ff/rr differential that works best. Info like that can take the better part of a day to figure out.

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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-22-2002, 04:02 PM
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I have the Potenza's and with them at temperature I run 49-51 in the Front and ~43 in the rear. My steering is more precise and quicker when I go above 47-48 on these tires.

That's what I've found. I suggest that everyone try this out if they are running the Potenza's. I was getting too much sidewall flex with these tires at lower pressure ranges.

Thankfully I just ordered a new set of wheels with some Kuhmo Ecsta V700 wrapped around them to keep 'em warm.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-24-2002, 01:17 PM
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I was running 41 all around. I've totally trashed the sides of my tires. Even after I went up to 50 on the Potanzas I will still wearing the outside edge of the tires. The inside edge of the tires are in perfect condition. I think that I've got a bad camber setup on my tires. Anyway be really careful with that setup. I'll have to see if I can get someone to do the &quot;race&quot; setup... maybe for free too.
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2002, 01:22 PM
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Sorry to revive such an old topic but I wanted to add to it.

I just had my alignment done. Dude it was so messed up.

The original settings were screwed. front left had -.8 the right had 0 and the rear had 0 left and -1.3 right. I'm amazed it went straight.

I set it up with:
Front: .9deg neg camber, max castor(6.3), and 0deg toe
Rear: 1.3deg neg camber, and 0deg toe.

I'm not sure about the 1.3 deg neg camber in the back yet but we'll see. Any comments about the rear camber? Or anything else?

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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2002, 03:02 PM
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I have my camber set at -1.5 front and -1.75 rear. I would max out the camber front and rear keeping it even. The only reason not to max out the camber is tire wear, and the outside of my tires end of wearing a lot more than the inside :smile:
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2002, 03:36 PM
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TP's vary but based on surface I would run about a 4 psi differential front to rear (higher front). No matter what pressure you run you will have severe shoulder wear on the fronts with stock springs. High 40's in front sounds about right. I run 52 front/ 48 rear on Hoosiers/concrete. You generally want to run a couple of pounds higher on grippy concrete than asphalt.

Everyone's camber sounds consistent with these cars. Toe out in front will help turn in greatly but will chew up tires on the street. Good, solid braking will reduce the need for toe out in front. Rear toe in will keep the tail behind you (especially with LSD) as this car has a fair amount of power on oversteer.

Toe out in the rear is mostly for front drivers who have difficulty getting the cars to rotate in sweepers and slaloms. Keeps the rear end loose.

-Derek

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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2002, 04:55 PM
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Thanks for the advise.

Croddy. Wow that's a lot of camber. I bet it's great on the course though. It sounds good.

Derek. I went with 0deg rear camber because of the high speed push that I'm expecting to get w/ the TRD front race sway. I feel I can compensate for the on power loose feeling w/ throttle control and luck. We'll see though.


I always read that people have so much push in high speed corners and nearly everyone has rear toe. **shrugs shoulder** I thought I just give it a shot in the dark and see if it works.

I have a race Sunday so I'll let you guys know. Of course I've changed so many things since the last time I raced so who knows what I'll be able to tell. exhaust,dropin filter,alignment,front sway.....
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2002, 06:02 PM
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I thought you said 0 degrees of camber. With the small amount of camber available I would recommend dialing in as much as possible.

Croddy has lowering spring on his car which allows more camber.

-Derek
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2002, 08:59 PM
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Oooops I meant toe. I have -.9deg front and -1.3deg rear camber. I'll quote it and fix it.

Fixed statment I made
<TABLE BORDER=0 CELLPADDING=0 CELLSPACING=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD COLSPAN=2><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD>&nbsp;</TD><TD><FONT SIZE=-1>I went with 0deg toe in the rear because of the high speed push that I'm expecting to get w/ the TRD front race sway. I feel I can compensate for the on power loose feeling w/ throttle control and luck. We'll see though. </FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD COLSPAN=2><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you thought about going w/ 0deg rear toe? What do you think about it? I definately think it's worth a try.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: IS_Dude on 2002-05-14 23:01 ]</font>
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-28-2004, 09:07 PM
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Ok, I am bringing this topic back. On the last three events, I suffered from really bad oversteer, and I am attributing mostly to the alignment being out of whack. I noticed that my front tires, the outer edge is wearing out in steps. Leads me to believe the toe is off.
I also think that the Azenis do not like being driven everyday, they got really slippery. I actually did a 360 one of these days going to work. Luckily, nobody was around.
I'll have a new set next year

Anyhow, I am looking for alignment setting for a stock shocks and springs. I may add a front roll bar for next season.

From reading the posts, it looks like:
-0.9 camber all around (guess it is the max).
0.0 toe in the front
-0.8 toe in the rear

is that about right?

I was thinking more negative camber in the front than the rear, i was thinking of -1.2 in the front, and -0.8 in the rear, but i guess that is not possible.

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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-29-2004, 02:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by METEORO
I also think that the Azenis do not like being driven everyday, they got really slippery. I actually did a 360 one of these days going to work. Luckily, nobody was around.
I'll have a new set next year
Good to hear you're OK.


I have some friends that run Azenis and from what I've seen they don't handle heat cycling too well. They get very hard (i.e. slippery) when this happens. A new set of tires would be a good idea. Until then I'd use the traction control.

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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-29-2004, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yogi_TRD
Good to hear you're OK.


I have some friends that run Azenis and from what I've seen they don't handle heat cycling too well. They get very hard (i.e. slippery) when this happens. A new set of tires would be a good idea. Until then I'd use the traction control.
Thanks, yes for the most part I have the traction control on. See there is a shortcut I take every mornig to get to the highway from my house, it is thru an industrial/corporate park. I know this road like the back of my hand. I call it my morning coffee. I always take the traction control off to go thru here, tons of fun. The road has this chicane, well more like switchbacks. So I make a right from the main road, put the pedal to the metal, let the car slide and go flat out thru the "S'", but the time the road straightens out, i'm going about 90-100.
So anyway, this morning, it was like any other mornig, but when i stepped on the car, the tail just bit me and the car spun. I had not chance of even trying to recover it. Never has the car done that, it is always so progressive when it begins to slide.

Yes the tires are a big factor, but the alignment has to be way off too. And these cars are very sensitive to alignment changes.

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