Gurgling fluid sound behind my glovebox? - Page 6 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #76 of 97 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ivey_usmc View Post
Found out that this shop overcharged my system by.5lbs!! My ac works great now but I still have that gurgling sound.
That would definitely make it cycle. Are you sure the gurgle sound isn't coming from the heater core(coolant system)? I thought a drain issue with the condenser unit makes a sloshing noise only when the blower is turned on. Usually a burst of compressed air into the black drain hose and into the plastic piping takes care of the water build up.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #77 of 97 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jasonm4444 View Post
That would definitely make it cycle. Are you sure the gurgle sound isn't coming from the heater core(coolant system)? I thought a drain issue with the condenser unit makes a sloshing noise only when the blower is turned on. Usually a burst of compressed air into the black drain hose and into the plastic piping takes care of the water build up.
I havent used compressed air. I disconnected the black hose and blew into it. It didnt seem like there was any kind of resastance.

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post #78 of 97 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 09:14 AM
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You should blow out not only the black drain pipe but also into the plastic drain itself because in the unit is where it bottle necks. If it's a gurgle sound upon cold start ups(especially), then it's the heater core. Just want to make sure what sound you're hearing and when you hear it.

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post #79 of 97 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 02:22 AM
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So if it is a heater core issue then bleed the coolant? I am having the problem at cold starts and last about 30-45 secs but is starting to last longer. I will be looking at drain line this weekend for a clog.

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post #80 of 97 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 02:44 AM
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So if it is a heater core issue then bleed the coolant? I am having the problem at cold starts and last about 30-45 secs but is starting to last longer. I will be looking at drain line this weekend for a clog.
Yep, top off the coolant in the rad and overflow tank and bleed the system.

There is a clear distinction between it being a drain line problem verses air in the coolant, this sounds like air in the coolant system. Coolant gurgling issues will predominantly happen on cold startups and fluctuate with rpms. The Evap water noise only occurs when you turn on the blower and it's sorta a sloshy kind of noise(i don't think that's the case here). Chances are your reservoir behind the rad went dry at some point and that's how the air gets pulled in, pretty common on this car. Normally you'd park on a hill or jack the front end up and turn the heat on high/blower on low. Allow the fans to cycle a few times and squeeze the top rad hose. If that doesn't work, either drain some coolant from the rad(to avoid boilover) and run it with the rad cap off OR use a sturdy funnel that tightly fits the rad spout and run it with the cap off. Then I'd keep an eye on the level of the reservoir when the car is off so you know you're not losing coolant. The progressive bleeding methods mentioned above are also described a bit deeper in the link below. Hope this helps.

https://my.is/forums/f87/infamous-gur...lp-plz-415033/

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Last edited by jasonm4; 10-04-2012 at 06:10 AM. Reason: added
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post #81 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-29-2014, 07:57 PM
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this happened to me too...mine started off as a swooshing sound and later evolved into a popping sound...the problem was solved after i replaced my water pump. in the meantime, make sure you have sufficient levels of coolant because for me, the popping sound was caused by overheating (my temp gauge was broken so i didnt know D
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post #82 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 12:15 AM
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Lately, during cold starts here in Nebraska, I've been noticing this gurgling sound coming from my center console/glove box as well. The first thing I checked was the coolant reservoir tank, and indeed it was dry. I filled the radiator and tank and the noise went away; I didn't bleed the system or raise the vehicle. The noise has since come back, and I imagine it will progress the longer I put off actually bleeding the trapped air rather than just topping off.

My question is: what causes this air to enter the system in the first place? The only thing I can think of is the coolant somehow evaporating and escaping the system, but that doesn't sound like normal operation to me; something would have had to have failed to allow that to happen, yes? I thought that at some point I smelled coolant while driving, but it's hard to say as I didn't smell anything in the engine bay or from the exhaust after checking at my destination. I see no leaks from a quick once-over at the engine bay.

I ask, because the seller of my current vehicle said the engine had overheated from the previous owner, and he paid to have the head work necessary to fix it; nearly $2.5k he said. I'm not sure what all work was done, however. The car didn't start making this noise until the cold of winter hit, nearly three months after I bought it and started driving it regularly. As well, the engine always seemed to sound just a tad "off" to me, with a slight muffled "ticking" sound that followed RPM and a slight vibration from the shift knob at idle, almost as though one cylinder had low compression causing a slight imbalance. This past month there were two times it struggled a moment or takes a second attempt to start (after giving the first a few gallups). This past week my car has been idling rough at times, especially after driving spiritedly (but that last bit could be just in my head...).

Do you think the low coolant and whatever issue I'm imaging with the low compression/imbalance, possibly the rough idle, and perhaps (but I can't think how) the hard starts could be related? Other than continually checking the coolant level to ensure it doesn't leak, should I run a wet/dry compression test, or perhaps also a leak-down test?
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post #83 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by reklipz View Post
Lately, during cold starts here in Nebraska, I've been noticing this gurgling sound coming from my center console/glove box as well. The first thing I checked was the coolant reservoir tank, and indeed it was dry. I filled the radiator and tank and the noise went away; I didn't bleed the system or raise the vehicle. The noise has since come back, and I imagine it will progress the longer I put off actually bleeding the trapped air rather than just topping off.

My question is: what causes this air to enter the system in the first place? The only thing I can think of is the coolant somehow evaporating and escaping the system, but that doesn't sound like normal operation to me; something would have had to have failed to allow that to happen, yes? I thought that at some point I smelled coolant while driving, but it's hard to say as I didn't smell anything in the engine bay or from the exhaust after checking at my destination. I see no leaks from a quick once-over at the engine bay.

I ask, because the seller of my current vehicle said the engine had overheated from the previous owner, and he paid to have the head work necessary to fix it; nearly $2.5k he said. I'm not sure what all work was done, however. The car didn't start making this noise until the cold of winter hit, nearly three months after I bought it and started driving it regularly. As well, the engine always seemed to sound just a tad "off" to me, with a slight muffled "ticking" sound that followed RPM and a slight vibration from the shift knob at idle, almost as though one cylinder had low compression causing a slight imbalance. This past month there were two times it struggled a moment or takes a second attempt to start (after giving the first a few gallups). This past week my car has been idling rough at times, especially after driving spiritedly (but that last bit could be just in my head...).

Do you think the low coolant and whatever issue I'm imaging with the low compression/imbalance, possibly the rough idle, and perhaps (but I can't think how) the hard starts could be related? Other than continually checking the coolant level to ensure it doesn't leak, should I run a wet/dry compression test, or perhaps also a leak-down test?
#1 cause is the overflow reservoir goes dry and pulls air back into the system, usually due to a leak or negligence. The reservoir should be half filled when completely cold and should ALWAYS return to that level when completely cold. Do you notice any leaks on the ground, near the water pump, or cracks in the radiator? I would think a crack in the plastic would also cause a leak as well, but it may be if you are smelling coolant. Has your radiator cap ever been replaced? If that's not keeping a certain pressure(~11-14psi iirc) in the system then the fluid will expel when warm and you will run low every time. Aside from that, it's sounds like your car needs a tune up if you have valve train tick. Do you have poor/low idle(below 700rpms)? A compression test and/or leak down would be appropriate, which should've actually been performed before you bought the car(if you knew there was head work).

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post #84 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jasonm4 View Post
#1 cause is the overflow reservoir goes dry and pulls air back into the system, usually due to a leak or negligence. The reservoir should be half filled when completely cold and should ALWAYS return to that level when completely cold. Do you notice any leaks on the ground, near the water pump, or cracks in the radiator? I would think a crack in the plastic would also cause a leak as well, but it may be if you are smelling coolant. Has your radiator cap ever been replaced? If that's not keeping a certain pressure(~11-14psi iirc) in the system then the fluid will expel when warm and you will run low every time.
I checked this morning, and while the radiator level seemed fine, the reservior was essentially empty. I topped things off and will continue to keep an eye on things, giving it a proper bleed this weekend. I will replace the radiator cap for good measure, but I have to imagine it's not the culprit as I've taken the vehicle on 2 hour trips and never had an issue.

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Originally Posted by jasonm4 View Post
Aside from that, it's sounds like your car needs a tune up if you have valve train tick. Do you have poor/low idle(below 700rpms)?
The idle seems to operate fine; fast idles up to 2k when cold (extremely cold here lately), but always settles around 750 RPM or so (I'll pay more attention next time I drive). It's just lately that I've been noticing the rough idle (seems to miss every now and then); things seem fine when under load. I was initially using 93 octane fuel, but I've since switched to 91 as it's much easier to find around here; both have a good chance of having 10% ethanol as well.

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Originally Posted by jasonm4 View Post
A compression test and/or leak down would be appropriate, which should've actually been performed before you bought the car(if you knew there was head work).
Yeah, I let the excitement get the better of me, and I was in the need for a car; I always planned on building an engine for the car, so engine health wasn't my greatest concern given the mileage on the engine. Unfortunately, priorities change and now I'm likely to buy a house before doing much invasive work to the car; so now I'm looking into the issues before they become real problems.

Thanks for the reply, Jason.
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post #85 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 09:57 AM
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I too had the problem with the gurgling sound behind the dash/glovebox.. It would go away whenever I topped off the coolant and bled the system. It would come back every time though, usually within a week. I recently flushed my heater core, ended up putting drain cleaner in it and letting it sit for just a bit. Then I flushed with water under pressure and 100 psi compressed air blasts. I got so much crap out of the heater core, and now it heats perfectly. It has also gotten rid of the sound for me though. The $5 I spent on drain cleaner and extra hoses was the best $5 mod I've made yet.
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post #86 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by reklipz View Post
I checked this morning, and while the radiator level seemed fine, the reservior was essentially empty. I topped things off and will continue to keep an eye on things, giving it a proper bleed this weekend. I will replace the radiator cap for good measure, but I have to imagine it's not the culprit as I've taken the vehicle on 2 hour trips and never had an issue.
I caught a whiff of coolant again while driving home tonight, and I was able to pinpoint a leak in the engine bay. While the AutoCheck report showed no reported accidents, this vehicle has definitely been in some sort of minor front-end fender-bender. The driver side doors have been repainted, as has the front bumper cover. The driver side door sits a bit catawampus in the jambs, with a visible slightly creased indentation on the front top of the driver side B pillar (as though the corner of the door was somehow pressed into it), and I noticed some of the fender supports were bent out of position when I had to replace the burnt out driver side fog light. The dent is really subtle, but you can see it on close inspection. I believe the seller said the radiator was replaced as well. Oh, and the driver side headlight bracket is broken. I guess that's why I got it at bluebook.

Long story short... the cooling fan shroud's coolant recovery tank is cracked and has an attempt at a repair (looks like gray epoxy) but still leaks.

Should I attempt to clean and re-repair, or should I just spring for a new shroud?
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post #87 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 09:55 PM
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Epoxy is always a short term repair get a new one
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post #88 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 07:32 PM
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Just wanted to drop a thanks, the previous owner did his own oil changes and apparently didn't check the coolant level (the radiator was low and the overflow tank was bone dry), it took just over half a gallon (over the initial refill and the top off a few days later) but the gurgle is gone, or at least so quite I can't hear it over the engine starting up.

I didn't follow the instructions quite to the letter though, I left the radiator cap on, drove it to a steep hill (I live in Seattle, so those are easy to find) and let it warm up on the hill, occasionally revving it up to about 3k (where the noise stopped before I filled everything up) then I drove around a bit, mostly steep hills near my place and the freeway to make sure it was thoroughly warm, seems to have worked.
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post #89 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 08:33 AM
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thanks just did this ride is much quieter now
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post #90 of 97 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by LividChihuahua View Post
Just wanted to drop a thanks, the previous owner did his own oil changes and apparently didn't check the coolant level (the radiator was low and the overflow tank was bone dry), it took just over half a gallon (over the initial refill and the top off a few days later) but the gurgle is gone, or at least so quite I can't hear it over the engine starting up.

I didn't follow the instructions quite to the letter though, I left the radiator cap on, drove it to a steep hill (I live in Seattle, so those are easy to find) and let it warm up on the hill, occasionally revving it up to about 3k (where the noise stopped before I filled everything up) then I drove around a bit, mostly steep hills near my place and the freeway to make sure it was thoroughly warm, seems to have worked.
Lucky no major overheating. You would think that if he went to the trouble of doing oil changes he would have glanced at the coolant tank at some point.
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