Gurgling fluid sound behind my glovebox? - Page 3 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #31 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by saajlexus View Post
can someone do a quick tutorial or video on how to do this? my parking is on a hill that i think might be good enough (if not, check out my profile picture of my.is) and when the step says.. "open radiator cap, turn on cold car... turn on heater."... the heater will come out as cold or as a fan because the cars not hot enough so im guessing thats fine?

and also.. what does it mean by "themrmostat opens".. how do i know that it does, because if that means the car is getting warm, wont the fluid gush out?


i have had this problem for a year since i got my car and it happens time to time and i never made a big deal of it until i saw the solution!

ty
just open the lid, start the car and turn your heat on high. i normally let it run for 10 minutes or so, as soon as you see your temp gauge come up and stick at the normal spot on the gauge, you know your getting close. i luckily never had to park any cars on hills to get the air out of the system.

~cody

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post #32 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by UsaPride View Post
just open the lid, start the car and turn your heat on high. i normally let it run for 10 minutes or so, as soon as you see your temp gauge come up and stick at the normal spot on the gauge, you know your getting close. i luckily never had to park any cars on hills to get the air out of the system.

~cody
This. Couple extra pointers..(some may be repeated, just wanna lay it all out)

-start with a cold engine

-jack front of car up or park on steep hill

-take the rad cap off and either drain a liter of fluid out of the rad via the rad drain, or do what I did and use a tightly fitting funnel and stick it into the rad spout. This will prevent the fluid to go all over your bay when it expands.

-turn heat on full hot/blower on low

-allow the car to come up to operating temperature. When it gets close to the halfway point on the coolant temp guage, the thermostat will open and you will start to notice the flow of coolant from right to left(if not using a funnel).

-Allow the rad fans to come on and cycle a few times. when they do, rev the engine no higher than 2k rpms to help get the trapped air moving.

-squeeze the top rad hose in a few places at some point when the engine is at operating temp.

-shut off the car and let it cool down completely

-refill the rad and make sure the reservoir is half full.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #33 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 07:20 PM
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Alright jason, that makes things much easier... thank you! +rep for wonderful description without pictures... and also like i said before with my other issues, i will do this during the weekend lol
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post #34 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 07:42 PM
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Alright jason, that makes things much easier... thank you! +rep for wonderful description without pictures... and also like i said before with my other issues, i will do this during the weekend lol
No problem man, UsaPride actually deserves the credit, I just threw in some extra tips that have helped me and others. So, +rep to him. Usually the extra steps such as removing the cap and parking on a hill may not be needed, but sometimes it's just easier to take the extra steps. Since this is a very common problem, I will try to make a tutorial once my car comes out of hibernation

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #35 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 07:46 PM
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This winter doesnt seem like a Hibernation time since its all just cold rather than snow haha but yes.. +rep to USAPRIDE.. thank you all!
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post #36 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 08:22 PM
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this is why i love this site. i had sae problem and was figuring like everything else.....wouldnt like what i found...you guys are great...
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post #37 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonm4444 View Post
No problem man, UsaPride actually deserves the credit, I just threw in some extra tips that have helped me and others. So, +rep to him. Usually the extra steps such as removing the cap and parking on a hill may not be needed, but sometimes it's just easier to take the extra steps. Since this is a very common problem, I will try to make a tutorial once my car comes out of hibernation
i didn't do to much! yours was ALOT better layout
but, for anyone having problems with this, there is alot easier way to bleed it. i've had to do this on alot of cars that have crappy coolant systems and they won't bleed at all. and with this you can check to see if you have coolant leaks, and then you also dont have to worry about bleeding the system. check this out:

Bottom-line pricing on UView 550000 at ToolTopia.com

that is the best coolant tool i've ever used. it's nice knowing you can check if you have coolant leaks and not having to worry about run the car to bleed it.

might be something for people to check into.

~cody

02 5 speed. Chargespeed, CP, Eagle, OBX, area 51, SRT, TRD, HKS, Volk, TokenSolutions, FIGS, BC, ARP, Fidanza, ACT, Tein, UR, ATI, AEM, Hawk, Megan, Greddy, Mishimoto, Teck, Clifford, Focal, Alpine, Pioneer, C-West, AAC, Cusco, Sustec, Tuned Parts, Toyomoto, Walbro...ect ect
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post #38 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 06:17 PM
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its crazy iv been dealing with the something since i got the car ilk 6 months ago i top off the radiator and resivor every couple months must not be doing it right cuz it eventually comes back every so often
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post #39 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 06:26 PM
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its crazy iv been dealing with the something since i got the car ilk 6 months ago i top off the radiator and resivor every couple months must not be doing it right cuz it eventually comes back every so often
You shouldn't have to be toping off the reservoir every few months. Make sure you're only filling it half way, otherwise if it's filled when cold, you'll expel half of the coolant from the overflow. If you are going through coolant that quick, you may want to consider getting a pressure test done on your coolant system and check the weep hole tubing mounted under the front of the water pump for signs of leakage. The engine under cover is like one big maxi pad, so make sure your not leaking anywhere else(ie. radiator hose leaks, cracks, leaky radiator).

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #40 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 06:40 PM
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jasonm4444 u always have good advice and quick support the only thing i notice is ilk a line that goes up and down buy the ecu box thing iv looked iv been planing to do a pressure test also just gotta wait till my bro has time to go on base lol to cold to be outside iv looked i know the timing belt and water pump were done because they both look fairly new i was starting to consider the motor thing everyone suggest because its not the ac drain tube thats what i did first
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post #41 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 06:50 PM
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jasonm4444 u always have good advice and quick support the only thing i notice is ilk a line that goes up and down buy the ecu box thing iv looked iv been planing to do a pressure test also just gotta wait till my bro has time to go on base lol to cold to be outside iv looked i know the timing belt and water pump were done because they both look fairly new i was starting to consider the motor thing everyone suggest because its not the ac drain tube thats what i did first
Thanks for the comment, it's appreciated. I kinda confused by what you ment about a line near the ECU, the only thing I can think of is either the trans cooler lines or refrigerant line. There's nothing else around there coolant system related. It's a good idea to do a compression test/leak down any time you have a motor consuming excess oil or coolant and can't physically see a leak. I'd keep an eye on it until then.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #42 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 07:08 PM
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ill try to get a pic to show u cuz i know its hard to explain yhea iv been with the honda game for so long i know coolant can be your worst enemy lol yhea now that i have some time I'm bring to get all the kinks out the car
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post #43 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 10:07 PM
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I was having this same problem. Thanks.

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post #44 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 11:30 PM
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Yup, jacking the car up totally worked. I had this same problem for months and couldn't figure it out. I knew it was air but no other method worked to fix it.

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post #45 of 97 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 10:21 AM
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adding to the mix

I have the gurgle sound and found some tips here, but i also have a couple of other questions...
1.-sometimes when i turn the heat on the a/c light comes on and i have to push it to go off????is the a/c comming on for a reason...
and it seems like even when i have everything turned off i still have iar comming out of vents.....not really that big a deal, but i just wanted to know if i should be concerned enough to take it to a shop???
as for the soungd of water behind the dash...im changing all fluids today and i will bleed the system when i do the cooland flush and fill...
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