Gurgling fluid sound behind my glovebox? - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 97 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 12:04 AM
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how do you take off the cap from the reservoir, is it twist off? or just pull up, cause I keep twisting it, and it isn't going anywhere....
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post #17 of 97 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 12:57 AM
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thanks for the tip. I hear a liquid sound when i start my car up but its not always there. I usually hear it when I'm on a level spot. Kind of like water rushing somewhere.
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post #18 of 97 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adankid View Post
how do you take off the cap from the reservoir, is it twist off? or just pull up, cause I keep twisting it, and it isn't going anywhere....
Yep...just pull it up. It does not twist off like your radiator cap

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #19 of 97 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 01:27 PM
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I'm having this same sort of problem as well. More of a whistling noise behind the glove box when the car revs over 3000 rpm. One of my friends who knows a lot more about cars than I do felt the heater core lines vibrate in sync with the noise and suggested I top off my coolant, which looked a little low.

I would be curious if anyone has had the same thing happen to them and know how to fix it.


Thanks.
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post #20 of 97 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion1976 View Post
I'm having this same sort of problem as well. More of a whistling noise behind the glove box when the car revs over 3000 rpm. One of my friends who knows a lot more about cars than I do felt the heater core lines vibrate in sync with the noise and suggested I top off my coolant, which looked a little low.

I would be curious if anyone has had the same thing happen to them and know how to fix it.

YouTube - Whistling sound coming from my car.

Thanks.
oh f, never heard that before...

Last edited by Tigger; 06-12-2010 at 12:13 AM. Reason: yes...censorship
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post #21 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2012, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonm4444 View Post
I am betting you have the same annoying problem I did. Does the gurgling happen to increase with rpm's? If it does....then there is def air in your coolant line. Mine happened b/c I neglected to check the resovoir which was empty. Fill it up...and do what the previous poster said.start with a cold car. Take off the radiator cap. Jack up front of car high as possible. Start car and turn on high heat on the blower(this bleeds any air in there too). Allow car to warm up until the thermostat to open. At this point you should be able to start to see the coolant to flow in the radiator. Be CAREFUL not to run it too long as it will boil over in about 4-5 min from start. Any air in the lines should surface as new coolant is pulled in. Stop your car...lower it...and you should be good. This made it about 95% quieter and worked for me. I always forget t check that res. Good luck....hopes this helps
I know this is an old thread but someone might be searching and run into this. It's one of the most common problems and there's been tons of discussions.

I just had this issue after replacing the timing belt and waterpump. I didn't notice the gurgling noise until today while I was parked in front of my driveway and talking on the phone. I thought it was the transmission at first but upon further inspection it was coming from the glove box.

So I made a video of what Jason described and I actually saw bubbles coming out right after the thermostat opened up.

Tip: Make sure you have a rag/towel behind the radiator so fluid doesn't go pouring into your drive belt.


The car is completely quiet now.

'03 IS300 SD TCM 5-SPD LSD
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post #22 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2012, 03:26 AM
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Nice video Tonynca

Those bubbles seem to surface pretty quickly when the thermostat opens. One other tip that I would like to suggest, as I see neither of us mentioned, when I bleed the system, I actually take some of the coolant out of the radiator and put it into the reservoir(so the expansion of fluid doesn't run all over the bay). Also, make sure to lightly squeeze the top radiator hose because it seems that air gets trapped in there. Slightly revving the engine to 2k rpms also helps expel the air out of the system. Overall, your video shows exactly what I see when I do mine, well done.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #23 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2012, 09:26 AM
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Thanks also for the video,

The whistling sound is still there for me... though not as loud as my original youtube video from a couple of posts ago. (May 2010)

I haven't tried bleeding the air out of the system as you showed, probably should have tried that when I had my car up on the jacks a few weeks ago when I changed my tires from summer to winter. It just doesn't bother me that much I guess.

Another issue I have is the heat coming out of the vents does not seem very strong. The dial is turned up to the max, though the heat only feels like it is around 70-75 degrees. Temps here in MA around 20-30F outside usually in winter... When the car was newer it would get so hot I would have to turn it down. I've had it for almost 10 years now, with 140k miles.

It's probably related to the air in the lines or heater core.

'02 IS300 BO 5-SPD LSD NAV
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post #24 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2012, 05:47 PM
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i still have the same issue since i got the car i tried toping the coolant and bleed the air out but not that much of a difference i check the ac line to make sure no water build up or anything i guess i need to look into that bad motor
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post #25 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2012, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrflak0 View Post
i still have the same issue since i got the car i tried toping the coolant and bleed the air out but not that much of a difference i check the ac line to make sure no water build up or anything i guess i need to look into that bad motor


Try bleeding the system with the car raised, heat on full hot, and with the rad cap off. squeeze the top rad hose as well. Obviously start with a cold car. The air in the coolant system likes to trap itself in the heater core, so I would give it another shot. If it doesn't get better, drain the coolant, disconnect the heater core lines that run into the engine bay, and use high pressure water to flush out the core. Another thing to look for is to make sure your air mix servo is shifting fully. It's on the left side behind the glove box. This thread I made goes into detail a bit more with coolant bleeding. hope this helps, lemme know if not.

https://my.is/forums/f87/infamous-gur...lp-plz-415033/

Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion1976 View Post
Thanks also for the video,

The whistling sound is still there for me... though not as loud as my original youtube video from a couple of posts ago. (May 2010)

I haven't tried bleeding the air out of the system as you showed, probably should have tried that when I had my car up on the jacks a few weeks ago when I changed my tires from summer to winter. It just doesn't bother me that much I guess.

Another issue I have is the heat coming out of the vents does not seem very strong. The dial is turned up to the max, though the heat only feels like it is around 70-75 degrees. Temps here in MA around 20-30F outside usually in winter... When the car was newer it would get so hot I would have to turn it down. I've had it for almost 10 years now, with 140k miles.

It's probably related to the air in the lines or heater core.

'02 IS300 BO 5-SPD LSD NAV
Same deal here. You may simply have air trapped in the core, providing the car's temperature comes up to operating temperature and doesn't fluctuate. With your mileage, a heater core flush would be appropriate. As mentioned, disconnect the lines at the firewall and flush. Check your servo motor if needed after the above has been taken care of. Getting the air out can sometimes take some time and patience.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #26 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-01-2012, 10:05 AM
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FYI, I had a similar gurgling sound and needed a new radiator. About $400 for a generic one.

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post #27 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-01-2012, 11:12 AM
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^how are you sure it was the radiator and not just air in system? had you tried everything mentioned in this thread before getting a new rad?
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post #28 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-01-2012, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kameha View Post
FYI, I had a similar gurgling sound and needed a new radiator. About $400 for a generic one.
I hope your radiator was leaking and you needed a new one. Because if you bought a new radiator to fix this then I think you wasted $400. The radiator was not causing the issue, it was air that was trapped inside the cooling system.

'03 IS300 SD TCM 5-SPD LSD
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post #29 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 06:30 PM
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Other problems may differ, but mine was certainly the radiator.

The gurgling sound progressed for about two months and seemed rather innocuous. Unfortunately, the issue culminated with the car overheating twice. I brought it into the mechanic smoking...close call. I felt fortunate that it was only a radiator.

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2002 Lexus IS300
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post #30 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 06:44 PM
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can someone do a quick tutorial or video on how to do this? my parking is on a hill that i think might be good enough (if not, check out my profile picture of my.is) and when the step says.. "open radiator cap, turn on cold car... turn on heater."... the heater will come out as cold or as a fan because the cars not hot enough so im guessing thats fine?

and also.. what does it mean by "themrmostat opens".. how do i know that it does, because if that means the car is getting warm, wont the fluid gush out?


i have had this problem for a year since i got my car and it happens time to time and i never made a big deal of it until i saw the solution!

ty
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