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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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FUCA Options and Reviews (add yours!)

I decided to make this guide as I didn’t have a lot of this information available to me when I bought my aftermarket front upper control arms (FUCA). It would have been nice to have at the time, so I’m hoping this will help some of you make a more informed decision. I have been told the 2GS spindle is the exact same, but someone else said they are very similar but not identical (I believe it was EK). So, this may also help some GS guys.

Im sure you are aware of the front suspension issues created when you lower your IS300/200/altezza; The top of the FUCA hits the inner fender well, shortening the life of the FUCA on the car. You have two options to fix this problem:
-cut a hole in your engine bay (if you want to do that, fine, but we will not be discussing that here)
-shorten your spindles and get adjustable FUCAs

Once you have shortened spindles, it is highly recommended that you buy adjustable FUCAs to make the most out of your spindles. I like to call these modification supplemental modifications, meaning the two go hand in hand and compliment each other.

If you have a review of a FUCA, please post it up (with pictures), the more info the better. I will edit my original post that includes a hyper link of your review.

Here are all the readily available options you have for FUCAs for the 1IS (in no particular order):

-Stock FUCA(with or without super pro offset bushings); pretty self expandatory. Fig’s site claims these can get you +/- 1.5 degrees of camber per side. A great option for someone looking to refine their current setup and not want to spend coin on an adjustable arm. If you have shortened spindles or plan to get some, I recommend you buy an adjustable arm.

-Jzx100 OEM (with or without super pro offset bushings); Serial9 just started carrying these and they claim they are 25mm shorter than stock. These have been popular with the stance crowd looking to get more camber out of their car while not shelling out a bunch of coin for adjustable FUCAs. I know someone on IG who has these with offset bushings and he told me that he can get an ‘easy -8/-9’ degrees of camber with these arms.

-KFD IS300/Altezza; These are a sliding balljoint adjustable type. Identical design to the megans. These allow +15mm/-15mm of adjustability. My detailed review is below this guide. I do not recommend these for super low cars as the end of the sliding portion metal comes in contact with the inner fender well. These would be a great option for someone who is at stock level height or near stock level height who wants to be able to adjust their FUCA in small increments.

-KFD JZX100; I have no info regarding the measurements of this arm. But, I believe that the jzx FUCAs in general are around 20-25mm shorter than IS300/altezzas based off the info Serial9 provides for the OEM jzx100 FUCA and the cusco part numbers below. While these are shorter, I imagine these will still fall into the same issue as what I am experiencing with my KFD arms above.

-Cusco; The cusco arms are similar in design to the sliding balljoint, but these have pre-set adjustments the ball joint locks into. Making it impossible for the balljoint to move/slip (unless the hardware falls out). The 4 preset locations for adjustment are: +4mm, -4mm, -8mm, -12mm. While the cusco arm has 3mm less of adjustment at max neg camber than the KFD, there looks like there is a little less metal hanging out on the end of the FUCA to catch on the inner fender well. Im not sure if the bushings are rubber, pillowball, or poly.

-Cusco JZX100; Same adjustments as above, but I am guessing the arm itself is 20-25mm shorter. If anyone has any concrete info, please let me know and I will add in. For reference, the part numbers between the jzx100 and is300 are ‘175 474 K’ and ‘195 474 K’; 195-175 = 20(mm). I would recommend this arm for someone who is looking to get more camber for a VIP style build. It has the same pre-set adjustments as mentioned above, its just a shorter overall arm.

-Serial9 ONI; according to their website, these arms will give you between -4 and -8 degrees of camber (-20mm to -40mm), 10mm shorter overall height, cromo rod ends, in-situ adjustment, balljoint is corrected at -3.5” and clearance for airbags. Like the cusco jzx100 arm, its probably more vip oriented. IMO, for super low cars and VIP style builds, this is the way to go; the bee’s knees.

-Serial9 SPORT; S9’s states that these are adjustable from +5 to -15mm. they are also 10mm shorter overall height, cromo rod ends, in-situ adjustment, and the balljoint is corrected at -2”. These look like they would be awesome for minor suspension corrections and track duties.

-T Demand; there is not a lot of info on their site (link below in post #13 ), other than they have two versions: 'oni can' which is -50 - (-5)mm shorter than stock, as well as 'semi can' which is -35mm - (+10)mm length from stock. They dont state it on their website, but it looks like the overall height is shorter, allowing for more clearance. T demands stuff is VIP oriented, so not for your track or everyday IS. Their stuff is also very pricey.

-Figs; they have a couple of options: drag/drift, road, and VIP. The first two look like you can get a range of -4.5 to 1.5 degrees of camber and even more with the super pro offset bushings. Spherical rod ends are also an option. The VIP is not listed on the website, but I have seen it on someone’s car, I was told they can get up to -13ish with out the spindle hitting the coil. I believe these are made to order. Fig’s website has A LOT of info regarding these arms and why they are designed they way they are. I recommend you check their site out if youre considering these. These are probably the most track-oriented FUCAs out there.

-Ikeya Formula; these are a steel construction so they are going to be heavy. They use a sliding balljoint design, but its different than the KFD/megan type. They appear to to be solid/heim mount. Not a whole lot of info out there on them, but from what I can find, they allow for +10mm to -10mm of adjustment. Probably the most expensive option on the list here. Here is a thread from 2009, all of the image links are dead: https://my.is/forums/f89/ikeya-formu...r-arms-399400/

-Megan; I called megan last week and I was told their arms allow up to +/- 3 degrees of camber. Sliding design similar to KFD. I am not sure that the bushing material is, but it looks like the ‘hardened rubber’ they use on other arms. See the issues with the KFD arm above, you will run into the same issues with this arm.

-God speed; same sliding design as KFD and megan except god speed is known for being cheap. Do not buy these, you will regret it.

(If I've forgotten any please let me know and I'll update the list; this list will also be updated as more info becomes available.)

10/31/18: added t demand.
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Last edited by mesooohoppy; 10-31-2018 at 02:33 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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KFD FUCA Review

Now that I have almost 500 miles on my KFD FUCAs (front upper control arms). I would like to give a little review of the arms themselves and comparison of other FUCAs.

Here is what I like about them:

-Build quality; I was hesitant to buy these originally as everything I had heard was 'a friend of a friend has this KFD part fail'. but it was always third party info. There is a user on here who has the rear lower control arm and he is not impressed with them. I will not specifically name said user, but he can step forward if he would like to give his expense with KFD arms. Back to the front arms, I took the plunge and purchased them. These arms are beefy and nice and heavy. I was mostly worried about the ball joint, but it arrived nice and tight. The steel is nice and thick as well.

-Replacement parts; the ball joint can be bought separately if needed.

-Price; they are very reasonably priced. shipping to the US is somewhat expensive, but that is what happens when you ship car parts halfway around the world.

-Customer service; they got back to me within a reasonable time frame and were always courteous despite being halfway around the world.

-Fitment; the arms went on without any major fuss (more below).


Here is what I think can be improved:

-Sliding design of the balljoint; I have them maxed out for neg camber with short spindles. If you see the pic below, you see how much of the sliding assembly is hanging out to smack the upper inner fenderwell (now I know why serial nine designed their FUCA the way they did). There is a step in the upper inner fenderwell that the end of the sliding assembly loves to catch and smack while the rest of the arm clears. It's hard to explain, but hopefully you see it in the pictures. I bent the end of the sliding assembly the second time it smacked the inner fender well.

-Fitment; the hole on the ball joint for the cotter pin is drilled way too low. Making the castle nut useless. The castle nut will not come off, but it can loosen itself. You can fix it with washers but I wanted to get my car back together and drive it so I didn't. Maybe one day I will get some washers to fix this problem.

-Poly bushings; I'm still not sure what the issue is, but when I torqued the bushing side of the FUCAS to factory spec it was frozen in place. I determined that I could only tighten to 25 ft/lb to get movement before I started to freeze in place. I'm still getting to the bottom of this issue, but I think you need to mock it up all together, attach ball joint to spindle, then torque.

-Specifications for camber, etc; I wrote KFD asking how much camber these will give me for a baseline. The answer I got is 'depends on your mods'. While true, it wasn't helpful. They should list measurements on their site (how many mm shorter when maxed out, etc). I did the homework for ya'll, it's below.

-Sliding hardware; the broaching on the allen bolts for the sliding hardware is not the greatest. There is no metric or standard allen key that fits in snug. Luckily each arm has six bolts holding the balljoint assembly on, so you don’t have to tighten super tight. It would be much better if these allen bolts were torx bolts; something I may do down the road.
-Finishing details; my arms had scrapes in the powdercoat. While it didn't bother me, the few pinhole sized holes in the welds did.

Here is where you can see all the end ’meat’ of the sliding assembly hanging out, waiting to be smacked on the inner fender well:


Here is the end, slightly bent, after hitting the inner fenderwell twice. This picture really shows the dip in the inner fender well that the sliding part of the arm likes to catch on (top of picture):

(if you look closely you can even see a little shard of metal hanging out, lol)

Here are some measurements for the KFD arm since there was not any other info available, I am going to publish it here. All measurements are taken from the imaginary line running center of bushings to the balljoint (like an upside down ‘T’):
Stock FUCA Length: 215mm
KFD Max Neg Camber: 200mm
KFD Max Pos Camber: 230mm
(15mm of adjustment from stock, both ways)



Here is the arm at the stock length, right in the middle:


Here is a reference pic with the arms maxed out on neg camber. 30mm shortened spindles with the LCA eccentric at zero. Keep in mind shortened spindles add some positive camber back in due to shortening:

Lucy; 04 manual sportdesign
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 05:31 PM
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The bushings look like regular molded rubber bushings. Meaning the movement is in the flex of the rubber and not the pivot of a center pin, like most poly bushings. Do you have a closer picture of the bushings? If the center won't pivot independent of the rubber/poly around it, then it's normal for them to lock into place when completely tightened.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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i personally do not, but there are these on their site:
http://shop.kfdteam.ru/image/cache/c...KE-500x500.jpg
http://shop.kfdteam.ru/image/cache/c...KE-500x500.jpg
(sorry, i cant get the [img] thing to work)

the FUCA has the same type of bushing in it. they are marketing these on their site as poly.

with that said, i do remember that the inner metal sleeve is bonded to the bushing itself (like in the pics). since everything is together/assembled, i will have to check the torque after i do the rear end.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 02:13 PM
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Looks bonded to me from those two pics. Did they stop selling those arms? I'm not seeing them on their site anymore.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 02:31 PM
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FUCAs are all good, usually.

~i live my life 4000 miles at a time. on big jets. looking down on you all.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ek9B18 View Post
Looks bonded to me from those two pics. Did they stop selling those arms? I'm not seeing them on their site anymore.
i noticed that too. they took them down. i wonder if they are making more. they arent a very big operation, so im assuming they do stuff in batches. either way, the bushing is the same as whats in the pics above.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 10:07 AM
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Has anyone used stock JZX100 FUCA's with Figs offset bushings to remove all of the camber? I'd like to know your camber settings... I was going to get some aftermarket FUCA's but I have no decided that I'm too much of a cheap ass. I'm going to just buy the offset bushings from Figs with the eccentrics maxed out so I get the least amount of negative camber with these arms.

FYI, I do have Fig's No. 2 arms maxed out for the most negative camber and max castor. I'm sitting at -6 camber for LF and -5.2 on the RF, way too much for street driving with the occasional track event. I also have a frozen lower cam bolt on the LF side, which is probably why my mechanic buddy couldn't get the camber lower.
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02' MT w/MK3 Supra LSD and no sunroof

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 01:44 PM
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I also have a frozen lower cam bolt on the LF side, which is probably why my mechanic buddy couldn't get the camber lower.
I believe I remember cutting one of mine out with the sawzall. I cut the bushing and bolts when I do this so it doesn't hurt the arm. I'm running figs poly bushings in that position now.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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pig, on their site it says a maximum of 3 degrees either way can be had with the offset bushings. not sure what your eccentrics are at right now, but you may be able to squeeze a little more out if you can with the LCA eccentrics. im sure if you email figs, he can probably help you or point you in the right direction.

i usually see the JZX upper arm being used for completely different reasons (lots of cheap camber in the front). the cusco arms arent too bad price wise, but you only have +4mm, -4mm, -8mm, and -12mm. they are 250 on RHD japan. so maxed out at -12mm compared to your jzx arms is still 13ish mm longer than what you have now (25mm shorter - 12mm = 13mm longer than jzx100 arm [at shortest setting]).

not sure how much shipping will run you, but they also look like they are on sale for the next day or so too. i may look into getting the jzx100 ones, just need to do some crude math to see if they'll work for me. if i had found the cusco arms on RHD japan for that price, i would have never bought KFD. i should have kept bothering them until they gave me the measurements i wanted.

Lucy; 04 manual sportdesign

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Ek9B18 View Post
I believe I remember cutting one of mine out with the sawzall. I cut the bushing and bolts when I do this so it doesn't hurt the arm. I'm running figs poly bushings in that position now.
That's the plan. I will need to do some work this winter when my car is stored in the garage.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ek9B18 View Post
I believe I remember cutting one of mine out with the sawzall. I cut the bushing and bolts when I do this so it doesn't hurt the arm. I'm running figs poly bushings in that position now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mesooohoppy View Post
pig, on their site it says a maximum of 3 degrees either way can be had with the offset bushings. not sure what your eccentrics are at right now, but you may be able to squeeze a little more out if you can with the LCA eccentrics. im sure if you email figs, he can probably help you or point you in the right direction.

i usually see the JZX upper arm being used for completely different reasons (lots of cheap camber in the front). the cusco arms arent too bad price wise, but you only have +4mm, -4mm, -8mm, and -12mm. they are 250 on RHD japan. so maxed out at -12mm compared to your jzx arms is still 13ish mm longer than what you have now (25mm shorter - 12mm = 13mm longer than jzx100 arm [at shortest setting]).

not sure how much shipping will run you, but they also look like they are on sale for the next day or so too. i may look into getting the jzx100 ones, just need to do some crude math to see if they'll work for me. if i had found the cusco arms on RHD japan for that price, i would have never bought KFD. i should have kept bothering them until they gave me the measurements i wanted.

I have completely stock JZX100 FUCA's in there currently. I am going to be installing the eccentrics once they come in from Figs. I guess I could take off my No. 2 arms and get them changed out to a better orientation, but I'm not sure what degree of negative camber I want yet. I'm thinking -4 for the front....really just want a good compromise for look, street driving, drifting, & full track driving.

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-21-2018, 04:31 AM
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I have the Cusco ones to get OEM spec camber, no complains!
how about T Demand from Japan?
????? ???? 170?/??????SXE10/???? JZX110
I bought their tension rod with pillow ball (lower arm No.2) second hand which will be fitted later on, build quality looks top notch!

I would be more worried about the size and alloy type/lubrication/rubber boot of the ball joints either lower or upper, I'm saying this because I once tried FEBEST brand which is supposed to be German!!!!! but it's way far from any German engineered product, the steel type/cast was of cheap standards, size was smaller and the boots were made of rose petals, so when it comes to ball or pillow joints I have a lot of questions to the manufacturer
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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thanks arzon, i will add it to the list. completely forgot about t demand.

i havent hand first hand experience their stuff, but i know someone who has fondled t demand's LS400 stuff. i spoke with him about it a while ago and he said its on par with serial 9's stuff; just pricier. he also said its not necessarily worth the extra cost as serial 9 is more than adequate.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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bumping this thread as i cant get it stickied. has anyone installed new FUCAs? if so, what brand? if you throw your 2c in and add a review, i will link your post to the first post.

Lucy; 04 manual sportdesign
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