DNA MOTORING HEADERS - Installation Complete! - Product Update - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 07:16 AM
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I would love to hear them on an otherwise stock exhaust
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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 09:16 AM
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Just wanted to add another data point. Just installed a DNA header on my 2002 IS300. Definitely zero issues with the rear O2 location which was awesome...inches of clearance.

Also definitely a pain getting the old header out. Especially since I had to cut off all three bolts from the y-pipe to the header.
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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 07:33 PM
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Humbucker, how does the rest of you exhaust system contain?
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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 03:55 AM
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Which ones did you get exactly that didn't give you any issues? Link?


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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Which ones did you get exactly that didn't give you any issues? Link?


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I would definitely try the link I posted as that is where I purchased mine from with 0 fitment issues.

BLKDOUT - I agree it is more "tinny" sounding but I suppose that was what I came to expect out of going catless in the header section. I really wanted the OBX or Figs Headers but again, gosh dang! the price of these was too low to pass up even if I had to trash them.

The real reason for my post was more to let people know there is a low cost / budget header out there that seems to have acknowledged the rear bung location as an issue for us. These were practically plug-and-play for $155.00.

"Good production Value" Hahaha Loved that comment - had me cracking up this morning. lol Thanx man! - I did it all from my iphone!

<3 IS LUV <3
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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Posh469 View Post
I would definitely try the link I posted as that is where I purchased mine from with 0 fitment issues.

BLKDOUT - I agree it is more "tinny" sounding but I suppose that was what I came to expect out of going catless in the header section. I really wanted the OBX or Figs Headers but again, gosh dang! the price of these was too low to pass up even if I had to trash them.

The real reason for my post was more to let people know there is a low cost / budget header out there that seems to have acknowledged the rear bung location as an issue for us. These were practically plug-and-play for $155.00.

"Good production Value" Hahaha Loved that comment - had me cracking up this morning. lol Thanx man! - I did it all from my iphone!
If you go back to your stock y-pipe it should mellow out the sound a bit due to the end cat.

02 IS300 | 5mt | LSD (174k Daily Driver)
01 Acura CL type-s | (132k miles Daily Driver)
08 WRX | 16g | E85 (Sold)
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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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If you go back to your stock y-pipe it should mellow out the sound a bit due to the end cat.
My Stock Y-pipe had to be replaced since I had a 1" gash just south of the Header Flange.

I liked the idea of also being able to better supply the engine with a little bit of back pressure by using the stock Y-Pipe but its no longer useable and too old and damage to really be repaired. You are probably right though.

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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
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My Stock Y-pipe had to be replaced since I had a 1" gash just south of the Header Flange.

I liked the idea of also being able to better supply the engine with a little bit of back pressure by using the stock Y-Pipe but its no longer useable and too old and damage to really be repaired. You are probably right though.
It's an idea I have played with seeing as then you can pickup cheap headers, and still have at least 1 cat. I had a catless downpipe on my WRX for 20 miles before I sold it and went back to a catted pipe. I couldn't imagine being catless ever again. Gave some serious headaches in DC stop and go traffic.

I do like these headers, it's 2017 and exhaust components are no longer as cheap in quality as they used to be coming from China. I'd bet these DNA headers come from the same factory as the other ebay brands that are below $200.

Hopefully your fouler isn't messing up fuel calculations and keeping the car in open loop.

Nice review! I may try these headers + stock y-pipe for the fact they are dirt cheap, run them till they snap a weld and leak. Then I would probably go with Magnaflow headers, and megan y-pipe for a ~600 solution.

02 IS300 | 5mt | LSD (174k Daily Driver)
01 Acura CL type-s | (132k miles Daily Driver)
08 WRX | 16g | E85 (Sold)
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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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It's an idea I have played with seeing as then you can pickup cheap headers, and still have at least 1 cat. I had a catless downpipe on my WRX for 20 miles before I sold it and went back to a catted pipe. I couldn't imagine being catless ever again. Gave some serious headaches in DC stop and go traffic.

I do like these headers, it's 2017 and exhaust components are no longer as cheap in quality as they used to be coming from China. I'd bet these DNA headers come from the same factory as the other ebay brands that are below $200.

Hopefully your fouler isn't messing up fuel calculations and keeping the car in open loop.

Nice review! I may try these headers + stock y-pipe for the fact they are dirt cheap, run them till they snap a weld and leak. Then I would probably go with Magnaflow headers, and megan y-pipe for a ~600 solution.
The fouler keeping the system in an open loop is something I hadnt thought about but I would expect a CEL if something was out of system spec. or if the system was regulating fuel differently - I may be naive to assume this a fair statement but should I really be concerned about running lean as a result of running a simple anti-fouler? At minimum, I would think the car changes the way it monitors but I find it difficult to believe it would regulate fuel any differently.
Honestly, I could careless if I am dumping fuel - its running lean that concerns me more; this is really a weekend warrior car and I dont drive anywhere I'm not familiar with due to the low stance height on the car. Needless to say, this limits my driving to around town locally here - no long trips.

Again, I would think if fuel mix was being regulated differently I would see some indication by the ECU as a CEL telling me something is up. This not being the case (NO CEL), I never really thought too much about it.

PS. Silly question. Does anyone know for a fact that I can run leaded fuel now? - I've been wanting to run leaded fuel for awhile now but I know the gas cap states unleaded fuel only. This is only because of cats in the stock system right? - I shouldn't have any issues running leaded fuel now
since I'm catless correct?

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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 09:33 AM
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At minimum, I would think the car changes the way it monitors but I find it difficult to believe it would regulate fuel any differently.
Did you only add spacers to the 2nd sensor on both banks? Other than that you are correct, the car should run fine in closed loop. It would probably throw a code in open loop as it warms up by now.

I'm the one being silly also. On this year of Toyota ECU the rear O2s on both banks are only meant for catalytic efficiency, and fuel calculations are only done on the upstream sensors.

For some reason I thought all Japanese cars did some sort of fuel calculation off the rear O2s, similar to how Subaru does it on the WRX/STi/BRZ. But different platform, different logic.

02 IS300 | 5mt | LSD (174k Daily Driver)
01 Acura CL type-s | (132k miles Daily Driver)
08 WRX | 16g | E85 (Sold)

Last edited by onsit; 08-21-2017 at 09:42 AM.
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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Onsit,

I actually only added the anti-fouler sensor extension to the post cat 02 sensor located on the header manifold.
- I didnt even touch the second one located on the Megan Y-Pipe.

That day I ended up purchasing another CNT Anti-fouler off Amazon but the CEL never came on as I had anticipated...
- Which I did think was a little odd but no CEL so... cant complain.

<3 IS LUV <3
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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 06:06 PM
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I now have the DNA headers (wrapped in exhaust wrap), stock mid pipe, and the Manzo cat back rear.

So far I am loving the sound. I wouldn't call it loud at all. And when you really get on it, it has that perfect 2jz sound to it. Also keeping the stock midpipe means I'm not stinking up traffic driving around.

As a followup to my comment above the DNA header did change my exhaust fitment some to where the tip is touching the bumper so I may have to get down there and fiddle with it some.
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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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I now have the DNA headers (wrapped in exhaust wrap), stock mid pipe, and the Manzo cat back rear.

So far I am loving the sound. I wouldn't call it loud at all. And when you really get on it, it has that perfect 2jz sound to it. Also keeping the stock midpipe means I'm not stinking up traffic driving around.

As a followup to my comment above the DNA header did change my exhaust fitment some to where the tip is touching the bumper so I may have to get down there and fiddle with it some.
I noticed this a little too with my set-up.

I was difficult to say "how much" but I know when I mated the Y-pipe to the header it was pulled forward some. I too noticed my exhaust tip moved a little closer to the bumper. I think (as you say) it requires just a little fiddling.

So Humbucker, for $155.00 what is your review?
- Recommend or Pass? (or too early to tell? lol)

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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 07:36 AM
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So far I'd say a big pass!

Especially given the lack of other cheap options out there. As far as I could tell you basically have these ~$100, OBX ~$450, and then Dezod and Figs for $1k+. I'm sure those are all fantastic headers, but for someone on a budget I think these are definitely worth a look.

edit: here is where I bought mine fyi... http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-ST...D/181127762435

Last edited by humbucker87; 08-22-2017 at 07:42 AM.
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-25-2017, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well it was a nice 200 mile run without any problems however today the CEL popped on.

Below are the codes read:
P2138 - Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor / Switch "D" / "E" Voltage Correlation
P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P0156 - O2 Circuit (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
P0156 - O2 Circuit (Bank 2, Sensor 2)

I had a feeling these codes might pop since I never installed the anti-fouler on the Y-Pipe Section. I do however have an anti-fouler (just arrived in mail) for this section - that I (Fingers crossed) hope will get rid of these codes and the CEL.

I haven't driven her much except to the autozone to get the codes read. I also had them re-flash the codes to prohibit the car from running lean while I drive her over to the lift.

I am really hoping the anti-fouler will take care of all this business but am now thinking I may have to end up with a sim kit after-all.

Anyone have any thoughts? Sound like shes really breathing now.

Lastly, anyone have an extra 02 Kit laying around before I source a new one?

As always, Thanks!

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