BRX/FRS diff the same as IS300? - Page 16 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #226 of 236 (permalink) Old 05-04-2018, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Ek9B18 View Post
I had all the guts out of the trunk and looked down at the sides of the trunk. Rust was hiding down there. I pulled the rubber plugs, cleaned up as much as I could then POR15's the rest. The rust hasn't come back. It's been a couple years.

POR15 has 2 potential problems.

1 - It doesn't like to be exposed to sunlight. It'll discolor.
2 - Its temperature range isn't that high. You just have to watch out around the exhaust.

It's nasty stuff. I use gloves and disposable brushes because once it sets, it doesn't like to come off.

That's all good to know, I'll have to look at that when I have other projects that require the anti-rust paint.

What really caught my attention was the degreaser they had. A little off topic from cleaning the diff I have up, but I think it'll help with some cleaning up of the oil gunk I have caked on the engine block, oil pan, and other various areas from a massive VVTI oil leak.
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post #227 of 236 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 03:41 AM
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What up homies... tired of one wheel drifting lol. need both firing... i see a 2013 frs Y38 diff on ebay and im about to drop $350 on it but just want to make sure its gonna work on my 2004 lexus is 300 automatic... i know im gonna have to finnese the install with some washers but will it work? Yes or nah
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post #228 of 236 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Relawolf View Post
What up homies... tired of one wheel drifting lol. need both firing... i see a 2013 frs Y38 diff on ebay and im about to drop $350 on it but just want to make sure its gonna work on my 2004 lexus is 300 automatic... i know im gonna have to finnese the install with some washers but will it work? Yes or nah
Yes. Washers or drill to get it to bolt up. Or replace the bushings.
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post #229 of 236 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 11:27 AM
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Edit...reading more.
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post #230 of 236 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 04:14 PM
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Anyone experience a clunking sound after the install? I installed the Y38 using the washer method. Worked well for a few hundred miles. Then started clunking, now it's pretty frequent. Happens when I step on the accelerator in low speed. If I accelerate lightly the clunking is not as noticeable.

Diff had 30k and looked in great condition prior to install. Please lmk if you know how to fix this issue. It's still driveable but getting to be really annoying and I'm afraid will eventually fail.

TIA

Suspension: Tanabe Sustec Pro RR 16kg, Cusco UCA & trunk bar, Figs MegaArms, Tanabe SB, UR underbraces, fender brace, floor bar, TRD door stabilizers
Brakes: Supra BBK w/Racing Brake 2 piece rotors
Engine: BC264, Fidanza, PLP intake, Dezod headers, Tanabe exhaust, Koyo radiator, Gates belt, Fig heat shield, Derale cooler, VibraTechnic engine mounts
External: Lsportline, Beatrush underpanel & radiator panel
Internal: Recaro Sportster CS
Wheels: TRD T3 Bronze/Michelin PS4S
4.10 Torsen LSD
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post #231 of 236 (permalink) Old 06-20-2018, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by asn007 View Post
Anyone experience a clunking sound after the install? I installed the Y38 using the washer method. Worked well for a few hundred miles. Then started clunking, now it's pretty frequent. Happens when I step on the accelerator in low speed. If I accelerate lightly the clunking is not as noticeable.

Diff had 30k and looked in great condition prior to install. Please lmk if you know how to fix this issue. It's still driveable but getting to be really annoying and I'm afraid will eventually fail.

TIA
Pinion and ring gear mesh is off. You are wearing your gears.
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post #232 of 236 (permalink) Old 06-20-2018, 05:44 AM Thread Starter
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I'd get back under there and re-tighten the mount bolts. While it's in the air, feel how much play there is when you turn the driveshaft back and forth. I'd be more inclined to think something is loose than that the diff is failing.

I'd verify you filled it with fluid too.
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post #233 of 236 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01 SolarYellow View Post
Pinion and ring gear mesh is off. You are wearing your gears.
Uh oh...that sounds bad...what's the fix?

Suspension: Tanabe Sustec Pro RR 16kg, Cusco UCA & trunk bar, Figs MegaArms, Tanabe SB, UR underbraces, fender brace, floor bar, TRD door stabilizers
Brakes: Supra BBK w/Racing Brake 2 piece rotors
Engine: BC264, Fidanza, PLP intake, Dezod headers, Tanabe exhaust, Koyo radiator, Gates belt, Fig heat shield, Derale cooler, VibraTechnic engine mounts
External: Lsportline, Beatrush underpanel & radiator panel
Internal: Recaro Sportster CS
Wheels: TRD T3 Bronze/Michelin PS4S
4.10 Torsen LSD
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post #234 of 236 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ek9B18 View Post
I'd get back under there and re-tighten the mount bolts. While it's in the air, feel how much play there is when you turn the driveshaft back and forth. I'd be more inclined to think something is loose than that the diff is failing.

I'd verify you filled it with fluid too.

Should be tight, I'll go over it again this or next weekend. Filled with Mobil 1 75w-90. Hope it's just a simple fix

Suspension: Tanabe Sustec Pro RR 16kg, Cusco UCA & trunk bar, Figs MegaArms, Tanabe SB, UR underbraces, fender brace, floor bar, TRD door stabilizers
Brakes: Supra BBK w/Racing Brake 2 piece rotors
Engine: BC264, Fidanza, PLP intake, Dezod headers, Tanabe exhaust, Koyo radiator, Gates belt, Fig heat shield, Derale cooler, VibraTechnic engine mounts
External: Lsportline, Beatrush underpanel & radiator panel
Internal: Recaro Sportster CS
Wheels: TRD T3 Bronze/Michelin PS4S
4.10 Torsen LSD
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post #235 of 236 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by asn007 View Post
Uh oh...that sounds bad...what's the fix?
Reset the pinion depth.
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post #236 of 236 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01 SolarYellow View Post
Reset the pinion depth.
Uh oh...that sounds complicated & expensive. hope that's not the problem. Funny thing is, the clunk is more pronounced in manual mode. In auto, I hardly notice it. been leaving it in auto mode until I find out exactly the problem.

Suspension: Tanabe Sustec Pro RR 16kg, Cusco UCA & trunk bar, Figs MegaArms, Tanabe SB, UR underbraces, fender brace, floor bar, TRD door stabilizers
Brakes: Supra BBK w/Racing Brake 2 piece rotors
Engine: BC264, Fidanza, PLP intake, Dezod headers, Tanabe exhaust, Koyo radiator, Gates belt, Fig heat shield, Derale cooler, VibraTechnic engine mounts
External: Lsportline, Beatrush underpanel & radiator panel
Internal: Recaro Sportster CS
Wheels: TRD T3 Bronze/Michelin PS4S
4.10 Torsen LSD
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