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What does a manual IS300 really worth these days?

30K views 28 replies 16 participants last post by  wingnut 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I've been in the market for an IS300 manual transmission for over half a year now. I've searched in many different forums, AutoTempest, dealerships, etc., and I've found prices for manual transmissions are all over the place. It doesn't matter what the condition, location, or the miles are, they do not have a pattern or a common theme. I've seen a 240,000 miles manual transmission car for $4,400 with a single owner, and I've seen a crappy condition manual transmission car for $8,900 with 3 owners, no maintenance records and 180,000 miles. Another example, I've seen two identical manual transmission cars with similar mileage, one with 165,000 miles, another with 175,000, and they are priced $10,000 and $7,500 respectively.

On the other hand, the price theme for automatics are very consistent all across the board, aside from the outliers with very low miles and very high miles (i.e. under 120,000 miles and above 210,000). The condition of these cars fluctuate the pricing by around $1,000, give or take. I've never seen an automatic that is priced over $6,500 for a mileage between 150,000 miles to 210,000.

I've done research on Edmunds, KBB, CarGurus, and TrueCar and their pricing for these manual used cars aren't consistent with what's really selling in the market for the manual transmission (yes, I selected the manual transmission option) right now. So really, I'm asking you guys, the experts and longtime members who's been here for many years, what is really the price I should be paying for a used manual transmission car?

Since there are a lot of variables in play, let's make assumptions for a starting point. Assume the car I'm looking at has 175,000 miles, somewhat comprehensive maintenance records, clean title, second car owner, good tire tread, nice clutch life left, fair exterior and interior condition (small dings and small scratches below the front and rear bumper, minor sticky dash issue, leather seat creases), clear coat wear on plastic parts (on side mirrors and spoiler), no clear coat wear on metal parts, used synthetic oil and 91 octane gas for all its life, no rusts, no check engine light issues, and no oil leaks. What is the price I should be paying for this car? Feel free to change variables in this senario (like more miles, salvage title, ripped seats, full maintenance records, etc.) and then tell me the pricing you would pay for that car in your custom senario.
 
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#2 ·
Personally, I think it really depends on your love the IS300.

One could purchase a used manual miata for $1800.00USD. - just to have a "manual" car.

I think everyone here could agree - not all IS300s are treated the same.
(It's becoming increasingly difficult to find any that have well maintained records, low miles, and minimal wear and tear)
- *Important Note: High Miles isnt a bad thing if the car has been well maintained.
- I would go so far to say that: If the car has had routine oil changes, I wouldn't rule out a stock IS at 200K+ on the dash.

I too think the used pricing for an IS300 is a mystery. haha
- Like you, I have seen pricing range from very low to very high.
- We do have a cult following you know. :p

I think for the situation you've outlined above the purchase price would be relative to buyers wants and needs (eg. 4-door vs 2-door, so forth and so on)
- If, given the context, we assume an IS300 is the "Must have":
- I think you will always end up paying a little more for something that's been well taken care of.

Personally for me: If for some reason mine was totaled, I would likely go to a forum or individual selling as part of the IS community or an actual Lexus Dealership. That's just me.

There's an old saying:
Pay more - cry once.
Pay less - cry more.

Again, IMO, I believe you get what you pay for.
- Paying a little bit more upfront would make me feel better about doing any long term investments on the car. (If that is your goal: investing in the car)


So:

That may not at all tell you what I would pay for an IS300
BUT
It does tell you about a buyers mentality.
- No one has ever RUSHED me into purchasing a car. Time is on your side. Do your research. Scower forums and used car classifieds until it feels right and you know / get that feeling to purchase right away.

In the end, if its everything you wanted from the start - you wont feel bad about putting in the time and money for something you feel is meant to be.


Manual swaps run around 5-7K Total.
(Some would say more - some may say less; i think its a fairly accurate number)
 
#3 ·
Assume the car I'm looking at has 175,000 miles, somewhat comprehensive maintenance records, clean title, second car owner, good tire tread, nice clutch life left, fair exterior and interior condition (small dings and small scratches below the front and rear bumper, minor sticky dash issue, leather seat creases), clear coat wear on plastic parts (on side mirrors and spoiler), no clear coat wear on metal parts, used synthetic oil and 91 octane gas for all its life, no rusts, no check engine light issues, and no oil leaks. What is the price I should be paying for this car? Feel free to change variables in this senario (like more miles, salvage title, ripped seats, full maintenance records, etc.) and then tell me the pricing you would pay for that car in your custom senario.
Personally, I think the car you're describing here should reasonably fetch about $6k.

I gave $7500 a couple years back for a 99k mile manual/LSD car that was in overall nice shape other than both bumper covers needing to be replaced. All stock. Frankly, I thought I was overpaying a bit at the time, but I'd been hunting for awhile and really, really wanted/needed a new(er) car - considering my daily driver at the time was a very rusty 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon with 275k miles...

A note about KBB and NADA suggested pricing:

I like niche/eccentric/esoteric cars. Always have. I've definitely noticed that KBB and NADA pricing does NOT capture the "popularity tax" associated with the cars I'm interested in. They also usually consider manual transmission to be a demerit, rather than a highly desirable thing - which is obviously incorrect in the real world.

For example, I've wanted an E46 BMW wagon forever. According to KBB and NADA, one of these cars with rwd only (most were AWD) and a manual trans is essentially worthless. In the real world, you'll need to pay close to $10k for a good example.
 
#4 ·
I always boil it down to the fact that things are worth whatever they are worth to you. If you are buying it thinking about whether other people think you overpaid or not then that's a problem. If you are worried about paying too much because its really "not worth that much" then that about sums up how much whatever it is is worth to you as well.

There is a range, no doubt, but I would not put the range to within a couple thousand dollars. I would probably stretch it to +-5k or so from what I could pay. If I was dead set on an IS300 and it HAD to be manual I would pay about up to 12k for one in good shape (it really does not matter to me whether you think I overpaid or not). If not, then I would get something else.

Since there are a lot of variables in play, let's make assumptions for a starting point. Assume the car I'm looking at has 175,000 miles, somewhat comprehensive maintenance records, clean title, second car owner, good tire tread, nice clutch life left, fair exterior and interior condition (small dings and small scratches below the front and rear bumper, minor sticky dash issue, leather seat creases), clear coat wear on plastic parts (on side mirrors and spoiler), no clear coat wear on metal parts, used synthetic oil and 91 octane gas for all its life, no rusts, no check engine light issues, and no oil leaks. What is the price I should be paying for this car? Feel free to change variables in this senario (like more miles, salvage title, ripped seats, full maintenance records, etc.) and then tell me the pricing you would pay for that car in your custom senario.
I saw your scenario kinda late...sorry. Again, I would probably pay up to 10k. I consider that to be an ok condition car considering its age and its known bugs....its not like you can do anything about the dash melting or the car getting dinged up if you actually use it. Again, this is not caring about what other people could think of me....just thinking that I abso-fukng-lutely NEEEEEEEED a manual IS300.
 
#5 ·
I've had mine for 3 years now. I paid $8000 for a manual, bone stock (not even an intake), good interior and decent exterior (nothing falling off, just a few scratches and dings) and 165k. Had a decent maintenance history as the original owner did everything at the dealership and all was reported (including a timing belt at 90k) and then the second owner from 135k to 165k had no records, but everything looked good so I didn't mind. I felt like it was a little expensive, but there was literally no other car that fit my requirements of japanese, manual, 4 doors, rwd <10k. Everything that fits this is a BMW, and there is no way I'm getting behind the wheel of a BMW.
 
#7 ·
literally no other car that fit my requirements of japanese, manual, 4 doors, rwd <10k. Everything that fits this is a BMW, and there is no way I'm getting behind the wheel of a BMW.
I know exactly what you mean and agree 100%. I mentioned before that I've always wanted an E46 wagon. I've never gotten one because I know what German cars do to their owners. I've learned the easy way, having seen friends get butt raped by their krautwagen. Nonetheless, the itch is still totally there. I'm prolly gonna have to learn the hard way. I've also been wanting a Porsche 997 so, so, so bad. Been on the lookout for one with a blown engine for 2 years now. I've got an LS3 just waiting.

Anyway, there sure is a shortage of rwd/manual/Jap cars!

And I doubt there'll be a resurgence of them, either... :-(
 
#6 ·
I don't have too much to add, but I think the main difference with the pricing of automatics vs manuals (other than the variations due to geographic location) is that with manuals, some dealers or private sellers do put on that "popularity tax" like Hodgdon said. Some people selling the car know what it is, so they charge more. The other people don't know what they have, so it sells for a "normal" price. In the end, it's about what you want to drive an be stuck with for the foreseeable future, what it is worth to you. The only deal that exists is when you're willing to pay more for something than the other is willing to sell it for. When something is worth more to you than them. I'd lower the price of my car if I was just trying to get rid of it, and I'd jack it up if I really didn't want to sell it. I imagine that comes into play with manuals too.
 
#13 ·
as tobias and im sure others have briefly touched on, i attribute this to mostly geographic locations.

i paid 10k for my manual sport design 3ish years ago. one owner car, bought from a lexus dealer, 114k. some would argue thats too high for an IS300, others would argue thats a good price coming for a dealer. this is on the west coast.

take this into consideration. i know someone who lives in NY. he bought a stock manual IS300 with 185k for 9k. when i first met him, i asked about manuals in the area and he said they are hard to find in his area.

i can hop onto craigslist right now and find 5 different manuals on the west coast. every time. there are 4 manuals in norcal right now. i havent even looked at socal or the PNW.
The BRZ was supposed to be our savior, but it has a boxer engine. I complain that I need to take off the intake to get to the valve covers, so there is no way in hell I'm getting one of those.

I'm very picky, so we are probably a lot of like, in that I would gladly give up my heart and soul for a Porsche.

Also, cool name. I run some Hodgden extreme powders through my Dillon 650 all the time.
the BRZ was just a let down all around. power #s and the terrible 5x100 are what immediately come to mind.

thats awesome. didnt know we had reloaders on here. i have a 550c. i use CFE 223 and pistol. going to jump into 300blk/308 next.
 
#9 ·
I was looking for a manual when I got my IS over 4 years ago. I am in a smaller market in the Midwest, but even going out a 500 mile radius I could not find a decent manual, though I was kind of in a hurry, I gave my old car to my son after he wrecked his Subaru, and was "forced" to use my BMW 2002 as my daily driver.

Anyway, anything with a manual was just too modded and roached out for my taste. The one I found that looked promising the buyer upped his ask by a grand when I inquired about it. I don't play that game and walked.

But anyway at those miles I would be under 8 unless really well cared for, both mechanically and cosmetically.

Lastly, like a jungle cat, the savvy car shopper must be both patient, but also ready to pounce quickly when the right car comes along, as a good one for a good price will go fast.
 
#10 ·
It really depends where you are located. In Canada they are expensive. I could easily sell mine for 12.5k CDN money wich is around 9k usd. But Mine has been totally restored, upside down, repainted and rust free. The Black on black Interior is mint and ain't got that sticky dash plague. A stock one in general good shape but with original paint and no bodywork done to it will be between 4500 to 7000 cdn$ depending on the rust contamination
 
#12 ·
It really depends where you are located. In Canada they are expensive. I could easily sell mine for 12.5k CDN money wich is around 9k usd. But Mine has been totally restored, upside down, repainted and rust free. The Black on black Interior is mint and ain't got that sticky dash plague. A stock one in general good shape but with original paint and no bodywork done to it will be between 4500 to 7000 cdn$ depending on the rust contamination
See? For a MINT car that cost upwards of 40k when new I have to disagree, I'm sorry. 9k is NOT a lot of money for a MINT car. The market can say whatever the market wants but if you put your car up for 9k you will sell it in a day. That must tell you something. If anything, I'd say people are willing to put the money up for the manual but bank on the autos being so plentiful and dirt cheap to low ball.

My full aristo/ar5 swap original manual, cosmetically focked up car. In spite of all the performance upgrades people will drool about, I won't get 10k out of it. But if I sell it for 7 or 8 someone will be boasting about the deal they just made. Full Aristo swap for 7 or 8? WITH transmission?

My opinion is YEARS in the making from seeing all these "I want a manual Is300 sooooo bad" "found a manual unicorn" blah blah blah bs threads. Again, its just an opinion, but a well thought out one. Feel free to discuss :)
 
#15 ·
This is the only forum where anybody has correlated Hodgdon Extreme with reloading. I got my start doing pistol stuff, but then got into target rifles - thus the Hodgdon Extreme moniker.

The HE propellants are hands down the most reliable, consistent and accurate ones available if target rifles are your game. There are other powders that make better velocity, or meter better thru a powder measure, or whatever - but low temperature sensitivity and consistent results is where HE is awesome.

My favorite cartridge is the 6.5x47mm Lapua. IMHO, out to ~1200 yards, nothing comes close balancing barrel life, ease of reloading, quality brass, accuracy, recoil and power.

I was an AVID car/engine guy all my life until I finished my Masters and got a job doing racing engine development work. Left there and went LeMans racing. Left there and calibrated OBD systems for one of the big OEMs. Working on car/engine stuff all day long took away all my desire to play with cars as a hobby - thats when the shooting hobby crept in. But a few years ago I left the auto industry and now I've gotten back into the car stuff.
 
#19 ·
Mine is still on the market over at Clublex. I just can't bring myself to post 50 random times to list it here haha :) (my ID over there is turbotron) It's certainly hard finding a value for these when there's only 4 or 5 of these for sale at any given time. Like all these posts indicate the condition and prices of each are all over the board. Bring a Trailer auction sheds a little light as to what it's worth but not a ton. So you're kinda left to throw some numbers out there until one sticks. I guess like what Fractional said, it's worth whatever your willing to pay for it.
 
#20 ·
I paid over 9k for mine (more if you include tax). Some may think I overpaid, but to me it was worth piece of mind.

When purchased: Sport Design, manual with LSD, 104k miles, single owner car, lived in Nevada all its life, sold in Socal. Didn't have service history so I did the timing belt, water pump and spark plugs after purchase. Body has minor scuffs but interior is impeccable, probably garaged, no sticky dash! At this point all i've done is waste money on gas and tons of suspension components that have crumbled after I lowered the car, so self induced costs really.

Tl; Dr

If it's in great shape and it's the car you want, you will have to pay over market value to get it.
 
#21 ·
I just purchased a manual 2002 for, (you all will hate me), 3200!! Only has 160k on it and the body is clean besides a couple scratches. It’s on evo 9 wheels and coilovers. The only issue is that it has a slow coolant leak and it misfires on startup, goes away after 10 seconds. I had no issues passing inspection and it drives amazing. I’d say 3200 is a very low price for a manual in good condition, I’d say a nice one is worth 5-7k
 
#25 ·
Sorry for resurecting this thread, but I'm curious. I ran into it after trying to figure out how much my car might be worth. I thought it might be interesting to change the OP's original question a bit. How much could I expect to get for my car? I haven't completely decided, but I think I'd like to sell my car this summer, depending on what I can get for it. If it's going to be below $5K, then I'd just as well park it w/ a car cover and keep it. I'm in Honolulu. I bought the car in 2003 from the dealer used, when it had 4K miles on it. It's a silver 2002 IS300, manual/LSD, 171,000 mi, 18" rims on feal coilovers, lextasy carbon fiber intatake tube w/ K&N drop in filter, exhaust manifold w/ CATs have been replaced w/ a new magniflo one. Third CAT was removed along w/ the resonator. It has a HKS Hi Power muffler w/ silencer. Otherwise, it's stock. Interior is black leather, no sunroof. No rust. The body is straight except for one tiny dent in the rear fender. I have all the maintenance receipts that the dealer or mechanic did. I've been changing the oil myself for the last several years tho. The timing belt has been changed around 80K and 130K. Clutch was changed around 50K. The car has never been raced or abused. It has had new paint sprayed a few times in different areas as the clear coat started to go. The hood and part of the roof is starting to get hazy again so probably need to respray the clear eventually. It's mechanically sound, no CEL. It was in one accident around 2005. The rear wheel and rear quarter panel was hit by a guy that ran a red light. Everything was repaired and I haven't had any issues since. Any ideas what I should be asking for?
Here's the most recent pics I have.
137427
137428
The passenger side pic is from 6 months ago and the other one was about a year ago.
 
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