New member here. I am copying and pasting the updates from another forum that seems to be dead.
Gents. Allow me to introduce myself. My name is Jordan. Located in charleston SC. I recently scored big and came across a 2002 IS300 that has been built and boosted. This is my first time around the lexus/toyota engine and chassis bases, but it is by no means my first time around a motor or a swap. Dont hold it against me, but my background is from the honda world... not the ricer side, but the enthusiast side. Ive been building engines since I was 8 years old. That was 21 years ago. My first enine build was a 1.2 hp johnson outboard trolling motor. Ive built many a Small block chevy motor and the newer LS series motors to B series and K series honda motors. My career background is in electronics, so wiring is not a problem either. enough about myself, here are the car specs:
I have the build invoice for verification on most of these parts.
2002 Lexus IS300 (pulled out of the woods, literally)
94,331 miles on chassis
2,609 miles on rebuilt engine
-JE pistons (9.0:1)
-SCAT rods with aged 625 bolts
-Ported and polished head
-unknown upgraded valvesprings
R154 transmission and manual conversion
-currently starting to lock out of first gear, likely thrust bearing is starting to fail.
SRT turbo kit (purchased from SRT)
-precision 60-1 turbo (yes precision)
-BLITZ BOV unknown size at the moment.
-Unknown brand and size wastegate
-AEM 3.5 bar map
Haltech F10X Standalone
Walbro 255 LPH pump
870cc injectors (assuming RC)
Brembo replacement rotors
powdercoated black with LEXUS name calipers
Comfort Sport Coliovers Tein with EDFC controller
Rays Engineering Gram light wheels (Assuming 17x7")
255/35 BF Goodrich T/A KDW 2 tires
So far, old fuel has been removed, new 7 gallons of 93 octane/ 4 gallons of 100 octane have replaced it. No electrical inside the car to include, instrument cluster, windows, door locks, dash lights. Replaced 2 primary fuses, 4 secondary fuses, 1 relay, reconnected a loose pin on the body ecu, and replaced a bent pin on the instrument cluster. IS300 now has internal power. After replacing and flushing the fuel system, the car has thrown a check engine light for multiple misfires between cylinders 1,2,3, and 6, but still managess to hold a 500 rpm idle. This 2jz is resilient! I will be isolating the misfires sometime this week once I get a few things of the lifts. I suspect the misfire is due to contaminated coils or wet spark plug wires grounding out to the engine, as I did pressure wash the engine to rid it of weeds, spiders, webs, and debris from sitting. New spark plugs will be installed as well once the top cover is removed. After I isolate and repair the misfires, I will be strapping this down to a Dynojet 224xLC and see if I can bring any other issues to light. So far it has all been simple issues that just requires time and effort to fix, so I have lucked out thus far. From the previous owner, he stated it put down 400whp 400wtq. hopefully within the month of November we shall find out how true it is. Wish me luck gents.
I didnt build the car, so I dont have any pictures of the build process on it. However I do have a few pictures of the car that I will post up once I process them through a host (photobucket). But here is an update as of last night. Spark plugs were replaced with NGK 5303 that were in the trunk of the car. I gapped them to 28-29 as that seems to be the general concensus on a clean starting point. I will tune the spark plug gap once we get her on the dyno in the next few weeks. Upon replacing the spark plugs, I noticed some slude built up inside the spark plug tubes from either sitting or from all the rain we experienced here in charleston a few weeks ago. Either way, there was not any residue inside the cylinders, just some carbon build up from the misfiring and extra fuel from limp mode. We scoped all 6 cylinders and there is not any serious build up or anythign to be concerned about, so that is a win. once all 6 plugs were replaced and the engine codes (p300 series) were cleared, she fired right up and sounded like it should have. IT immediately shot to 1500 rpms for cold start upidle. after 2 minutes of idling, it came down to around 750rpms and maintained the idle very well.
New issue did arise. Once you tip in to the throttle, it bogs for approximately half a second and then picks up just fine. I am leaning towards the MAF sensor on this one. I will take it out and clean it sometime this week and isolate more issues
Well I have it idling nicely now, however, more problem have arisen as expected. under tip in of the throttle, it bogs heavily and nearly stalls. secondly, after starting off in second gear (first is nearly shot), i am hearing some serious chatter from what appears to be the bell housing area. This concerns me a bit as it may be the clutch or flywheel. Good news about this is that I need to remove the transmissions for rebuild anyway and I can inspect it then.
Update on the IS300. The misfires came back but only stuck around on start up. upon first start up, it would immediately shut down after reaching 1500 rpms. Upon second startup, it would idle fine, but die under tps tip in until the engine warmed up.
Burned out the remnants of the old fuel that has become stagnant in the line or rails or injectors. this immediately cleared up the tps tip in issues. Vehicle still dies upon the first start up but functions beautifully on the second startup. I will be puttin the IS300 on the dyno the second week of December (Dyno has been super busy recenetly) and we will look at the tune, specifically cold start up, and see what we come up with.
TEIN EDFC supsension has been fixed as well. After tracing wires using a multi meter (Impedance test and voltage test), two wires destroyed. Positive lead was melted and the negative lead has some scarring in the jacket of the cable that I wasnt comfortable with. After doing some slight repairs to the harness for the EDFC, it immediately came alive and is functioning perfectly.
Its coming along nicely so far.