Motor Mounts - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Motor Mounts

Does anyone have any tips for getting motor mounts out while on jack stands? I’m so close to getting the passenger side out, but I can’t raise the engine any more. I removed the IC pipes, radiator hoses so I could jack the motor up. I unbolted the transmission brace and put a jack under it to allow it to drop slightly. Now I’m trying to get the mounts out without removing the brackets.

Anyone have any helpful tips? I’ve done a good bit of research but I’ve tried everything I’ve found with no luck.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 05:46 PM
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Not what you want to hear, but I removed the lower control arms (the lateral arms and the caster arms), then supported the engine/trans assembly on jack stands, then removed the engine crossmember...

If you're really really close as-is, you might enjoy success by slightly lowering the engine crossmember. It mounts to the chassis via 4 downward-pointing studs. You could loosen the nuts securing it, lower the whole subframe maybe " or so...Be careful! Go too far and allow it to drop, you'll never get it back in with the control arms and all the other shit attached.

Oh yeah, you'll also need to loosen the steering shaft, the upper shock mounts and the caster-arm bolts to allow the subframe to come down.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Hodgdon, I appreciate the tip on dropping the sub frame! Do you happen to know the torque specs of the sub frame?

1. Remove the oil filter housing to do the drivers side of the engine. It's 1 union bolt and it opens up space to pull the mount bracket off easily
2. If NA-T like me, you need to remove the extension on the thermostat housing. This clears tons of space and is worth the minimal effort
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 07:49 PM
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I use one of these. Then I drop the whole subframe down on a jack just enough to get clearance. You might be able to get away with not disconnecting the PS. You could also just unbolt the rack from the subframe (4 bolts) which might be easier than disconnecting the linkage. In the sense that it'll have no impact on your alignment whereas disconnecting the linking you might end up a tooth or more off.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 10:42 PM
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I did my motor mounts a few months ago, there's a tutorial on youtube that's pretty good. I put the front of the car on jack stands, then supported the engine via the jack under the oil pan and used a 4x4 block of wood. I did the passenger side first, removed the bolts securing the motor mounts to the engine block. I had to do this as there wasn't enough clearance all the way jacked up to remove the rubber mount.

As for the driver's side, I moved the jack more towards the driver side as I jacked up the engine via the 4x4 block of wood. That allowed the engine to be jacked up enough to slide the rubber mount out without removing the motor mount attached to the engine block. I first removed the oil filter to allow enough space.

Be careful jacking up the car & engine. Take your time and be patient. I did it myself but would help with another person.

Good luck!
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Suspension: Tanabe Sustec Pro RR 16kg, Cusco UCA & trunk bar, Figs MegaArms, Tanabe SB, UR underbraces, fender brace, floor bar, TRD door stabilizers
Brakes: Supra BBK w/Racing Brake 2 piece rotors
Engine: BC264, Fidanza, PLP intake, Dezod headers, Tanabe exhaust, Koyo radiator, Gates belt, Fig heat shield, Derale cooler, VibraTechnic engine mounts
External: Lsportline, Beatrush underpanel & radiator panel
Internal: Recaro Sportster CS
Wheels: TRD T3 Bronze/Michelin PS4S
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattyp View Post
Hodgdon, I appreciate the tip on dropping the sub frame! Do you happen to know the torque specs of the sub frame?


I don't know the torque spec. I just gave it a couple grunts with my extended length 1/2" ratchet. Probably 75-100lbft.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattyp View Post
Do you happen to know the torque specs of the sub frame?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodgdon Extreme View Post


I don't know the torque spec. I just gave it a couple grunts with my extended length 1/2" ratchet. Probably 75-100lbft.

I got you, 52 lb-ft, and for the scientists out there... 714 kgfcm, or 70 Nm, right out the manual.

Unless you're referring to a different bolt spec, it can probably be found in the Engine Mechanical section around where I was looking if you have the repair manual.
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Last edited by DH_71631; 06-02-2019 at 05:25 PM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 06:32 PM
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Crossmember to body is 74 ft/lbs 52 is motor mount to crossmember.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone!!!
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Just in case anyone comes across this, I was able to get to everything using common tools.
1. Remove everything connecting the motor - Radiator hoses and IC pipes
2. Jack up motor slightly to gain more room. Losen the 3 nuts from each mount and remove the nuts.
3. Now you can jack the motor up more. I went about 4 - 5"
3a. I ended up loosening the 4 nuts holding the subframe - this allows for a additional 1/2 - 3/4" of space which is much needed!
4. Remove the oil filter housing as it greatly simplifies removing the top bracket for the motor mount
5. Remove the upper radiator housing (has thermostat in it)
6. I had to remove my screamer pipe off my wastegate to give me more room on the passenger side


I didn't see the above steps in many of the DIY's so I figured I'd add it here since it helped me greatly!
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