Installing Cat/Header ?'s - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2018, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Installing Cat/Header ?'s

Hey all,

So I ordered a Magnaflow SS cat/header for my IS. I read through a couple install write ups and watched a couple videos. Looks relatively straightforward aside from a few questions that popped up.. just wondering what ya'll thought if you've done this before:

- I don't have funds to ceramic coat the headers.. they are SS anyway. Would these benefit from a wrap job? Has anyone wrapped their headers?

- Read some issues around a resonance coming from stock y-pipe pairing up with aftermarket headers... I am kinda confused on why and how to avoid that issue.

- What kinda sealer is used on the headers mating to the engine? Or is it just a gasket only, no sealer? Is there a sealer used on the y-pipe/header connection?

- Is there any other maintenance i should perform while I have everything removed to gain access?

Thanks all... this is my new "good" project car and I want to do everything right (and not cheap-out on parts like I did for my old honda project).
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 10:18 AM
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Nice. I would be interested in seeing how the Magna's sound. Post a video when youre done!

As far as header installs go - its been discussed on here before (MANY Articles about it)

For this car:
You will need to completely remove the intake. I also had to remove the throttle body.
- Buy your self a HPS Intake Pipe from Figs Engineering - they have the remake JoeZ (straight tube removes the accordian section) or get the whole intake.
- I went completely catless on my exhaust.
- Getting the old headers out is a B*tch. Trust me its been discussed here. Take your time.
- I would wrap the headers before you get them in the car. Or you can heat shield the intake - I think HPS's Accordian delete uses silicone so that may help if you dont want to get rid of the stock air box.
- My mistake was not wrapping the headers - so I ended up wrapping the intake and have a CF Vented hood on order.
- FYI - you will also need the special socket head to take the O2 sensors out - that is if you dont already have it.

Resonance? You mean drone? - My car only drones at hwy speed, but my differential is different (4.10) than stock so my IS revs higher and drone comes on around 70mph+. .....And I'm catless soo....
- Mid pipes are cheap. If you dont like it, the mid-pipe is an easy swap. Megan racing mid-pipes seem to be a solid choice there (wont break the bank either) - other than that stay away from Megan. (And it comes with a cat delete, the little 3rd cat in the mid pipe is not monitored and shouldnt cause any CEL if swapped)

For Maintenance, try and clean that engine bay out while you have the headers out. That way if there is a leak in any of the gasket seals you can see the soot forming and find the troubled area quicker. I cant comment on sealant? - Any time ive used sealant I ended up hating it so I replaced the gaskets all together. The headers, should by all means, create a good seal to the block. - I would think the bigger problem would lie on the backend - getting the headers to mate properly with the mid-pipe. - Even with my megan mid pipe I ended up welding in a flex-pipe to provide better fit and form.

Best of luck! Cheers!

<3 IS LUV <3
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 11:20 AM
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FYI GreaseKnuckle. If you wrap the manifold Magnaflow will not honor the warranty.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 01 SolarYellow View Post
FYI GreaseKnuckle. If you wrap the manifold Magnaflow will not honor the warranty.
Wow! That's crazy, I didnt know that. Is this because the cats can burnout quicker with heat kept in?
- Thats some good insider knowledge for ya!

- I just found out Seibon requires a heatshield to be installed on their hoods or the warranty is voided too. - Had to call direct to find that bit out. Sales people only know so much....

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 02:40 PM
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Heatshield is different than wrap though. I don't think you have to worry about wrapping or sealer stuff. Just bolt it all together with the gaskets that should be included. You could use copper spray if you want, but I never found it did anything useful. As long as you bolt it all straight, you won't have any leaks.

The only maintenance you could even care about would be the O2 sensors. If you want, replacing all 4 of them with brand new Densos would be a ton easier now, instead of later.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 05:19 PM
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if you dont want to wrap the headers, figs sells a heat shield.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2018, 06:25 PM
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I just recently installed DNA headers on my car. I only removed the intake tube. I had to move the wiring harness for the o2 sensors and TB out of the way and I also loosened the subframe support bracket to make more room for the stock headers to come out. I didn't have to remove the throttle body. It was certainly a tight fit, but it did come out. Putting the new catless header in is easy.
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2004 IS300 8N6 automatic - F&F Coilovers, Eibach sway bars, DIY Intake hardpipe, FR-S LSD swap, buddy club driver seat, Aftermarket HID's and LED Tail lights, Trunk strut mod
.....Soon to be NA-T with CX Racing hard parts, Garrett 60-1 turbo, Tial 50mm BOV, Tial MVR wastegate and FIC 6 piggyback
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by VegasIS3 View Post
I just recently installed DNA headers on my car. I only removed the intake tube. I had to move the wiring harness for the o2 sensors and TB out of the way and I also loosened the subframe support bracket to make more room for the stock headers to come out. I didn't have to remove the throttle body. It was certainly a tight fit, but it did come out. Putting the new catless header in is easy.
Thats what I have on mine! For the price of Dezod or Magnaflow's buying a heatshield from figs is still a "more affordable" route; if considering a catless solution.
- However I think the OP has CATS on his Magnaflow?s so not sure how much removal will need to be done. - I would hope their the same size or smaller than the stockies, but Idk.

Your probably right tho - maybe I didnt completely remove the throttle body but definitely had to loosen it up and it (as you said) was a TIGHT FIT.
- Out of curiosity, how did your gasket hold up on the DNA motoring headers? - Mine lasted maybe a month before I had a leak.

Ended up getting a new Felpro Gasket since the stock gasket works well on these. Cheers!

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 12:41 PM
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I re-used the stock manifold gasket because it seemed higher quality than the DNA one. It's not leaking from the manifold at all. However, I'm having a hell of a time sealing the y pipe connection because the neither DNA gasket nor the stock gasket seem to seal well with the DNA header. I'm likely going to have to loosen the entire rear section and tighten it from the headers backward to see if that helps it seal.

2004 IS300 8N6 automatic - F&F Coilovers, Eibach sway bars, DIY Intake hardpipe, FR-S LSD swap, buddy club driver seat, Aftermarket HID's and LED Tail lights, Trunk strut mod
.....Soon to be NA-T with CX Racing hard parts, Garrett 60-1 turbo, Tial 50mm BOV, Tial MVR wastegate and FIC 6 piggyback
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 01:00 PM
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Yeah, I too had a hell of a time trying to get a good seal there.

Truth be told, I welded in a flex pipe and that did the trick. Not the cheapest route, but definitely the most painless in the long run.
- Also, I'll be needing to find a way to lower the muffler further since its smashed up against my TRD Rear lip right now and i have no further adjust-ability in the hanger.

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