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1jz/2jz engine removal

5K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  jong1 
#1 ·
Hey Guys,

I am pulling my 1jzgte vvti to rebuild the bottom end and wondering if it is possible on the is300 to remove the engine with out trans? If someone has done it any advice would be great?

The second issue when I pulled my 2jz the worst part was Power Steering fluid and getting it to stop leaking and the fuel lines. What is the best way to stop these lines up and still be able to move the car?

Thanks,
Dereck
 
#2 ·
Yes - you can leave the trans in.





Normally the fuel line will bleed off pressure when you first crack it open, just bungie-cord it up-right (I think I attached mine to the brake booster, and it usually doesn't drip. For the PS fluid, I just cram a bolt in the lines and put a hose clamp around it. Seals it up pretty good.
 
#3 ·
Any tips on getting to the bolts on the trans and things to watch out for. The video is great was hoping it showed steps on getting to the bolts. If i recall when i did the last pull on the 2jz i did tie the fuel line up just want to make sure the race gas doesn't poor out.

I will do that with the PS and see what we can do to minimize the amount of mess it creates.
 
#5 ·
For the trans in the car, all you need is a complex series of extension bars with wobble heads.



I drop the driveshaft, rear engine mount, and access from the back portion of the trans using 5-6 extensions of varying lengths. I used something like a shorter 3/8" one near bellhousing, medium, 1/2" shorter, shorter and a long ones to stretch to back of transmission. The W55 wasn't so bad, but the top bolts on the V160 adds a special kind of frustration in the IS.

I would clamping the fuel line from below (they have special rounded fittings made for this) . I've had a couple start syphoning and make a dangerous mess... luckily I hadn't gone far from the garage or for long.
 
#6 ·
For the trans in the car, all you need is a complex series of extension bars with wobble heads.
Yup! Here's my winnning combination. I also removed the engine motor mounts and had the engine on the hoist at this point, it really does help to lower the engine down a bit so it's easier to get to the top trans bolts.

 
#4 ·
Any tips on getting to the bolts on the trans and things to watch out for. The video is great was hoping it showed steps on getting to the bolts. If i recall when i did the last pull on the 2jz i did tie the fuel line up just want to make sure the race gas doesn't poor out.
It depends on the car but often times I'll attach the hoist and then lower the engine cradle and the whole engine down low enough to make it easier to get as the bell housing bolts from the bottom.

Honestly though I tend to pull the engine and tranny as a unit. It's just so much easier to work on and install. I was thinking you could disconnect the PS pump from the engine, along with the AC compressor and pull the engine out without disconnecting the lines at all.
 
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