IS300 P0161 B2S2 o2 Sensor Replacement - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
So.... I replaced all 4 of my sensors like 9 months ago... Denso OEM replacements, soldered in (and I'm not a hack, I know what I'm doing. They were all soldered and shrink tubed, then one large shrink tube around the whole bit...)

And one thing to note... You do not have to take the seat out. I just moved mine all the way forward, yanked out the heater duct, and voila! there it was.

But my car just failed emissions for the B2S2 P0161 DTC... WTF?

Do our cars have heater circuit fuses? Some cars have fuses for the O2 sensor heaters, and it's as simple as replacing the fuse... Anyone?

EDIT: Found out we don't... I gotta do some wire testing now...
I'm looking to replace this b2s2 sensor myself.
So seriously you move the passenger all the way forward and pop of the heater duct?
what else?
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by luig300 View Post
I'm looking to replace this b2s2 sensor myself.
So seriously you move the passenger all the way forward and pop of the heater duct?
what else?
If you unbolt the seat and scoot it all the way forward, then tilt it towards the front of the car you can pull the heater duct out and get to the sensor. Just watch the air bag plug if you don't unhook the battery.
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-29-2010, 07:35 PM
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Changed out my b2s2 o2 sensor, cleared the code with my reader, but CE light reappeared after 15 minutes of driving. Any ideas anyone?
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Rynocross View Post
Changed out my b2s2 o2 sensor, cleared the code with my reader, but CE light reappeared after 15 minutes of driving. Any ideas anyone?
That sensor has a pretty long harness because it pokes up through the floor and loops back around to under the seat... Try swapping it with another sensor (i'm pretty sure the plugs are all the same), clearing your codes, and seeing if it comes back as another bad sensor, where you put the old one. You'll probably just have the same code (drive for like 50 miles, on and off the highway), which to me means you have a wiring problem somewhere. If it is, it could be as simple as a bad connector under the seat (or a corroded one if it was outside), or a bad wire somewhere. The bad wire is very difficult to solve, as it could be an intermittent problem that might not appear when you test it. I'd test it from both ends, then when operational from the computer end. In one of my old cars, I actually soldered a new (known good) lead to a wire inside the car, and if the problem started (sending unit problem), I would test it from inside the car. It's actually the only way I found the problem.

Welcome to the fun world of wiring problems... if that's what it is. From my experience and what I've heard though, they don't happen often in these cars. So good luck with that.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-23-2011, 02:16 PM
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What type of O2 sensor are you guys using?? Bosch?? OEM?? Reasoning?
My CEL just came on and it's this code so I need to change it out and wanted some advice before I dig in. Thanks in advance.
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 07:05 PM
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The pictures and info on how to access the O2 sensor connector by removing the seat and loosening the carpet were very helpful. I successfully replaced my bank 2 sensor 2 with the Denso OEM model (Denso 234-4517). I got it on Amazon for $55 vs $195 list. Glad I didn't go to the dealer.
Thanks for the info.
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-22-2011, 03:13 PM
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Just got 2 front ones Denso 234-4209 for $29.50 each shipped from Amazon.

Will have to mess with wires some. but it's 2 for price of 1 with right plug.

rep me so i can buy stuff XO
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-04-2013, 02:33 PM
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Hey longnights, I edited the diy to add that the battery negative should be disconnected for at least 90 seconds before disconnecting any SRS/airbag connector(yellow connectors), otherwise deployment is possible. Also this job can be done without removing the seat by moving the seat forward and up all the way. Just an fyi.

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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-02-2014, 10:15 AM
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I was replacing my bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor and I realized the actual sensor was rusted onto the exhaust manifold. It will not budge and the exposed part underneath my car is completely ruptured. Is this safe to drive with? Will the oxygen sensor become a lot more overheated than normal?
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 01:40 PM
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2002 Lexus IS300 oxygen sensor (P0161 code) replaced with Denso 234-4517 oxygen sensor from Amazon (cost $50). This was nice because I didn't want to cut and splice wires. Also needed 7/8 inch oxygen sensor socket.

Old sensor can be removed easily without WD40. My sensor was not rusted. I just used elbow grease and took care not to over torque if sensor was not coming loose. I also removed the black plastic panel covering the wires to allow me to remove the rubber seal protecting interior from exterior.

For disconnecting wires from interior, move the front passenger seat all the way forward and raise height of chair. The black air duct can be removed to allow room to get to the wire immediately underneath the carpet. After disconnecting the wire, I easily pulled the wires out after removing the black rubber seal separating the exterior and interior of the car. I didn't have to unbolt the chair, which was nice.

Before installing the new sensor, I disconnected the negative battery cable to reset the check engine light. I applied anti-seizing goop to the threads on sensor taking care not to get goop on the sensor. Sensor was installed. Firm torque was applied with the oxygen sensor socket being careful not to over torque. Voila! I put everything back together. Car turned on and check engine off immediately. Drove car around for ten minutes and still fine. Hopefully this will last another 180k
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