Is300 drl/blinker mod - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Is300 drl/blinker mod

I saw a tundra with swutchback drl/blinkers last week, and decided that my car would look good with drls. I know that some is300 have the hi beam drl, however mind does not, whether it was deleted or never came factory that way.

So I ordered some VLEDS v6 Triton switchbacks. Expensive, but quality bulbs and very bright.

Is300 drl/blinker mod-img_20190110_075642391_1547234447116.jpg

I also decided that I wanted them to operate like my old Volkswagen, drl on with park brake off/drl off with park brake engaged since it's a manual transmission. This will require a relay, and wiring to the park brake switch (which I had already done while installing my remote start)

Is300 drl/blinker mod-img_20190110_075517318_1547234521432.jpg

That brings the next issue.

Front turn signal bulbs on these cars are 7440 (single filament) and will require 7443 harness/sockets which is dual filament as to add the drl function.

As I'm still waiting on the harnesses, I installed the wiring and relay last night


Is300 drl/blinker mod-img_20190110_165722872_1547234586839.jpg
Is300 drl/blinker mod-img_20190110_165649018_1547234640790.jpgIs300 drl/blinker mod-img_20190110_165659220_1547234666023.jpg

Used an add a fuse from the local auto parts store for a key on power source. I used the engine fuse box, but in hindsight an interior fuse might have been a better bet, just would have to mount the relay inside.

Used a Dremel to clear the way for wiring to come out of the fuse block, so the cap is still functional.

Then I wired my relay trigger to the park brake wire I had previously wired up.

Is300 drl/blinker mod-img_20190110_165830885_1547234856449.jpg

These connections are all soldered mind you, I don't recommend butt connectors or spade terminals, especially not quick splice connectors.

Then I trimmed all the extra wiring up since I built the relay before installing into the car, and wrapped it up nicely. I did find there's a perfect spot next to the battery with a bolt hole to mount my relay.

Is300 drl/blinker mod-img_20190110_173707088_1547235001879.jpg

Now I am just waiting on my harnesses to come in so I can install the bulbs and finish up. Will update in a day or two.

If anyone was curious on how I wired the relay..
Is300 drl/blinker mod-img_20190110_075332491_1547235088530.jpg
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 05:04 PM
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Ah nice, so did you replace all 4 signals with the Tritons?

Glad to see I'm not the only person doing this



Mine are the V3s though, and I wired them up to a switch on the dash, to the ACC power, so they only get power when the key is turned. I also used the stock 7440 connector harness, I just cut out the extra wire for the white LEDs and put them straight to the switch. Post pics of the results. I'm thinking of changing to the V6s
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Ahhhh yes, I'm super glad you included a picture. They look good.

Yes, all 4 are going to be the tritons (pricey as shit)

Hoping to get it done this weekend, got home to harnesses in the mail today, my other pair of bulbs will be here tomorrow.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 08:22 AM
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what does switchback mean
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Switchback is an led bulb, that operate as a daytime running light, as well as a turn signal. Meaning they're drl while I'm driving, but when I hit the blinker, the white light flips off to use the Amber turn, and when the turn signal is done the white light comes back on.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 02:23 PM
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haha yeah they are pricey, but totally worth it. When I got mine, it was many years ago when they were MUCH cheaper, and I think they had a 35% off sale. I've been able to actually warranty them all the up to the latest version of the V3, because when one bulb or controller would fail, I needed all 4 to match and they'd just send them all lol. They work great, but the V6 is supposed to be brighter I supposedly, and of course, they are much smaller with WAY fewer wiring. Let me know how you like them! I have a regular amber triton V3 in the back signal, but I do want to do 4 switchbacks back there for dual signal/reverse. 8 pairs total lol... ouch on the $$$
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 06:00 AM
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Good work guys. I put switchbacks in one of my cars. But I added another wire that ties to the power for the HID's. So they are white with the headlights on. Then turn amber when you use the turn signals. I changed the plugs them self. Then used a 7443 style. I also did a similar mod to the rear. If I ever get time. I was thinking of looking at the factory DRL circuit and trying to figure out where the signal comes in.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Update, installed and wired everything. Blinkers work great and are bright as all hell. But my drl circuit is blowing fuses.

I have ground at the output for the drl circuit when checking with a power probe. I think I might have garbage light sockets. Will need to look into it further when I get time. Will update then.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TobiasSing View Post
haha yeah they are pricey, but totally worth it. When I got mine, it was many years ago when they were MUCH cheaper, and I think they had a 35% off sale. I've been able to actually warranty them all the up to the latest version of the V3, because when one bulb or controller would fail, I needed all 4 to match and they'd just send them all lol. They work great, but the V6 is supposed to be brighter I supposedly, and of course, they are much smaller with WAY fewer wiring. Let me know how you like them! I have a regular amber triton V3 in the back signal, but I do want to do 4 switchbacks back there for dual signal/reverse. 8 pairs total lol... ouch on the $$$
I was thinking about the switchbacks in the rear for dual signals and reverse. But there's little room behind the tail lights in these cars. Unsure what I would do with all of the extra wiring.

I also want to get the full led tail lights. I think the all red would look better than the altezzas. But that's money I don't need to spend at the moment.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 02:19 PM
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yeah there's not much room behind the lights, but the V6 don't have all that extra wiring. I did have to hammer the sheet metal real good though to fit regular V3s in there, but the V6 are supposedly smaller.

As for the shorting issue. I think maybe the parking brake is a ground, not a hot? that doesn't really make much sense though. Did you get CK sockets, or CK bulbs? They are different. Also maybe try one bulb at a time, one of them could be bad
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 06:17 PM
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Looks good. Bookmarked for a future mod!
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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As for the shorting issue. I think maybe the parking brake is a ground, not a hot? that doesn't really make much sense though. Did you get CK sockets, or CK bulbs? They are different. Also maybe try one bulb at a time, one of them could be bad
The circuit is bad without bulbs even installed. But the turn signal circuits work flawlessly. So I'm going to order sockets from Napa or some pigtails straight from Toyota (I work here and get parts at cost) and do it that way. Unsure about the whole ck/non ck thing. That's confused me. But I'm doubtful that's the issue, apparently those bulbs work the same regardless.

Edit: also yes, park brake switch provides ground. The ground at the park brake switch is the trigger for the relay I wired. Nothing more. When no ground is seen at the relay, power is sent out to the bulbs. When ground is present, it sends no power.

Last edited by Timothy_juniorr; 01-15-2019 at 09:28 AM.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 02:21 PM
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Sounds like you got it figured out then. If the new sockets don't work, I'd just leave the wiring stock and pull out the white wire and do it separately
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like you got it figured out then. If the new sockets don't work, I'd just leave the wiring stock and pull out the white wire and do it separately
That's the plan. Only think I don't like about your method, is if there ever was reason to warranty these, I doubt they'd take them with the harness cut apart.

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 02:33 PM
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That's the plan. Only think I don't like about your method, is if there ever was reason to warranty these, I doubt they'd take them with the harness cut apart.

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lol, the way they would warranty my stuff was by having me destroy it and send them a picture. Cutting the wires was their recommended method.
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