DIY walbro 255 fuel pump install with pics (alot) - Page 3 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #31 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 07:35 PM
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Recreated with images, some are missing. Thanks to Nougatti for the link that had 80% of pictures.

https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20120901114650/https://my.is/forums/f221/diy-walbro-255-fuel-pump-install-pics-alot-409785/

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Originally Posted by dooderek View Post
well i just wanna say thanks to wingzero's diy thread, when i first saw it though it was a tad bit vague and i was thinking someone whos never pulled a fuel pump out before probaly wouldnt find it as informative, so last night after pulling mine out i made a step by step process on how.

*warning*
it is recommended to run your car dry of gas before doing this diy. if you do not wish to do so then you run the risk of getting gasoline on your car, or other surfaces, which may lead to unexpected combustion. preform this diy at your own risk

first remove your backseats, pretty much good trick here is put your hands were you feel the metal clips (circled in red) and from there give a good tug and you will hear an audible pop




next step is to remove the lid holding above the fuel pump, its located behind drivers side and has 3x bolts there weird plastic screws, 10 or 12 mm


then proceed to take out the 8 screws on the metal peice holding the pump in place, after those go you should be able to lift the pump up but its stuck about an inch but because the fuel cable is still attached. to detach the fuel cable grab the yellowish green clip and put it all the way out.


once that clip is out "slowly" with twisty motion is best remove the cable, should pop right out and you may get some gasoline on you, i got few drips.


now move the fuel line out the way and slowly pull up, you will meet 2 points of resistance. 1. is the fuel level indicator 2. is a rubber hose clamped onto the pump, you cant see it in this picture but you will know when you see it. clamp is kinda tough, i used some pliers then shimmy'd it down. for the fuel level indicator once you get the hose off angle it so that the metal comes out

i chose to d/c the cable once i pulled it out, but you can at anytime really "its tricky though you gotta use alot of force to get that clip down"



heres a pic of the hose once i taken it out, you cant miss it though


once everything is d/c'd go head and pull it out


alrite here comes the tricky part. the fuel pump housing is a bitch. there are 4 clips holding the top lid as pointed out by the red arrows. you will probaly have to use a screwdriver and its gunnna require a bit of force but remeber its still plastic so dont go hulk on that thing. the bottom part pointed by the blue arrrows were easy, might have the move that lil hose thing but cake deal.

once the top's off d/c the connector on top and with a lil twisty motion pull the stock pump out, take a lil bit of force and you might get gas on ya. oncce you pull it out you will find a spacer, a o ring and a cap on the tip, you can see my cap in this pic, its tan. save those as you will be re using them on the walbro

at the bottom of your stock fuel pump youll see a lil metal ring thing with 3 prongs angled but pointing towards you. thats the fuel filter retaining clip, in my pic i already moved it to the walbro but you will probaly need a screwdriver to unclip it





*warning*
be very careful during the next step, if you plan on soldering, which you should, that fuel pump is going to have deposits of gasoline, you can throughly clean there but there will be spots were you cant see, and a solderer is very hot, take caution and if you can solder the connections in a different area of the house, maybe backyard, keep a bottle of water handy w/ wet cloth.

now here comes the dangerous part, soldering. you shouldve purchased the walbro with the installation kit, "fuel filter plus pig tails" your going to need to clip the connector from the pump housing group and solder it on with the one provided in the kit. its red = pos black = neg, i drew 2 lines just if you were confused, but just rember black on black. now i forgot to in this pic but its reccomended that you "stagger" the connections meaning clip them at 2 different points, just incase if the rubber tube or e tape come undone they dont touch each other and spark, which is bad.


and after all that, you may put it back together and back step from there. enjoy!
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post #32 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 12:01 PM
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Great write-up! thank you!
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post #33 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-21-2017, 08:41 PM
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Thank you for the write up. I will have to visit this thread again when I'm ready.
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post #34 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 11:58 AM
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My Experience

Great write up! I did this to my 196,000 mile 2001 last night, and it fired fired right up. I have moderate experience with DIY car repairs, but to save time, research, and uncertainty for those who may have this issue in the future, here's a couple of things I think are important to include on this thread:

1) The problem with my IS started out of the blue. I had driven my car all weekend without any chugging or sputtering. I went to go to work the next morning and it would crank but not start. I checked the battery, the fuel pump, EFI, and circuit opener relays (In case you've never tested a relay:
), and finally the fuel pump itself. After downloading the shop manual https://my.is/forums/f90/lexus-is300-...ay2011-382793/ , I tested the resistance of the pump and the response of direct power to the pump (p. 1025-1025 of the shop manual will help here). The resistance was fine, but the pump did not run when I hooked my battery up to it. Bam, fuel pump is the problem.

2) I ordered the Walbro GSS342 255LPH directly from the Walbro website and got the 2 day shipping option, so the total price for that, the pump, and the wiring harness (that you absolutely need) was ~$105.

3) This complete repair took me about 3-4 hours. I had the pump out in about 15 minutes, taken apart and the pump itself replaced in about 30, but the harness they sent was a different gauge than the stock pump (~20g for stock, ~16 for harness). I haven't soldered anything in a few years, so this part was a real bitch. Took me about an hour per splice. So if you are a solder rookie, plan on extra time. But if you're a pro, this will probably be a much shorter repair.

4) The fuel filter that came with the fuel pump was not similar to the IS filter. I'm not sure why it was different; maybe because I searched by the type of pump I needed instead of by make and model. Anyway, my old filter was super clean, so I just re-used it.

5) Plan on having some shrink tube to cover the splices. Electrical tape adhesive turns to goo when exposed to gasoline and gasoline vapors. Though it's unlikely with the wires inside the pump housing that it would come unwrapped, I thought it best to play it safe.

6) On the stock fuel pump is a plastic tan fitting, an O-ring, and a black spacer. You will need those for the new pump.

7) You might want to trim the new wires by about half before soldering. They're kinda long and makes it more difficult to put the pump housing back together.

That's all! It's really not a difficult repair. Thanks again for this write up!
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post #35 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-11-2018, 08:31 PM
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Will need this soon thanks!
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post #36 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 02:28 PM
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